satch

iTrader: (1)

So the "only" turbo harness used is the "Engine" harness and the Emission harness is na?

lukec53

That is correct. I un plugged the old engine from the computer and under the passenger kick panel area, pulled that engine and plugged the new engine into the new computer and plugged the last two plugs from the old computer into the new one. So unless the emissions harness is incorporated with the engine harness, the emission sharness is still na

lukec53

Ok so apparently i was very messed up with my thinking. I just looked up which harness is which and this whole time I've been thinking the emissions harness is the engine. Very sorry, but to clear things up..
I changed the harness that goes through the firewall on the passenger side, which from what i read is the emissions harness.
SO to re answer your question, the engine and front Harness are NA. The emissions is turbo.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There aren't too many things to be changed if you're using the na harness so look at the first two posts in the link supplied.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/s4-na-turbo-swap-details-813825/

lukec53

so i just got home from the shop now at... 1:50am, so sorry if i sound a bit tired haha. so today after work i tried just cutting that red/brown wire on x-15 and starting it. not even a pop, still. so i went through the complex unflooding process with the oil in the spark plug holes and everything.. still nothing. so i did some more reasearch on the wiring changes and...

i just changed the wires on my x-15 and x-16 plugs as follows:
brown/red and black(sometimes blk/br) (x-15) - cut and capped
green (x-16) - cut and capped, remaining wire re-routed to brown on x-15 for water temp
black/white and white/black (x-15) re-routed to small white plug for alt

After i finished, turned on my key and was happy to see my temp gauge not shoot up to the top, also noticed that instead of all of my idiot lights being on, only the seatbelt, hatch (which is open), and one other (i forget) were on. Ok all looks good, try to start it.. rolls over as usual and still nothing. so i figured since the computers probably been thinking its under high boost untill now, its probably flooded. so i pull a spark plug and it is WET. go through quick unflooding (pull egi comp fuse and floor it while cranking, then replace fuse and start) process about 4 times, and still didnt even fire once.

what else could be wrong? i was hoping this would be the solution. did i change all the wires that are needed? are there any other than in x-15 and 16? what am i forgetting?

HAILERS2

Not needed. One hose went to the small outboard nipple on the intercooler and the other nipple on it goes to the BAC......or near the BAC location. So cap off the intercooler nipple and that other nipple near the BAC.

Yellow/white is water temp sensor/gauge wiring. On non turbo cars it passes thru one of the orange plugs on it's way to the gauge and on Turbo cars it passes thru the OTHER orange plug on it's way to the water temp gauge.

What is the part number on the ECU your using? N3??

I've done the non turbo to turbo swap yrs ago and other than taking car of the brown/red boost sensor output wire in the orange plugs and the black/white alt wire in those orange plugs things worked out and it started and runs to this day. Lengthened the TPS wires and BAC wiring and rearranged it so the secondary fuel injector wires reached the injectors.

Hard to say what the deal is. Usually I'd say key to ON and check the brown/white wire in the boost sensor for voltage of five volts or real close to that. That plug selected because it's easy to get to. No other reason. TPS brown/white ......same reading 'cause it's the same wire. IF it's close to five volts that lets us know the ECu ref voltage is good. IT's needed to run the car.

Or maybe key ON and connect your old CAS to the harness and spin the bottom gear on the CAS. With key ON there should be sparkplugs sparking and fuel injector primarys clicking audibly. That's a easy way to know whether or not the ECU is getting signals to the coils and fuel injectors. Takes but a few minutes. Might pull one of the lead coil wires out of its bore and just lay it in the bore so you can see the spark there when the CAS bottom gear is spun with your finger. Engine does not need to be spinning over, just key ON and spin the spare CAS with your fingers.

Checking for spark/fuel injection this way saves the battery and the starter. No drag on the batt from the starter spinning doing it this way.

HAILERS2

Stk USA brake booster lne connects, on a turbo, to the rear of the upper intake. The pic of the blue engine..........that hose is shown in the shot of the rear of the engine. The hose and metal tube is sticking straight up in the air.

On a JDM engine I believe that brake booster connection is on the lower intake manifold. Never owned one of those myself but seen pictures on this forum of that connection,

Engine fuse in the interior still good?

lukec53

that blue engine is mine, this picture im reattaching right now shows the line i have going to my brake booster marked as "6" on masking tape in the back ground (ignore the circle). it goes to a hard line that runs across the firewall.
unfortunately i cant work on my car today, but ill check that fuse on sunday and let you know.

HAILERS2

Just two jpg of USA throttle body/upper manifold showing the original brake booster source of vacuum. No other meaning to this post. Just FYI.

lukec53

ok so i just checked, and my engine fuse under the dash IS still good.

lukec53

also, my ecu is N333. i know there is spark getting to the engine, ive put the spark plugs on the block and rolled it over and they light up, and i have put a light in the injector plug to test if they are getting power and when i crank the engine the light flashes. Those pics you posted of where the brake booster.. my intake doesnt look like either of those, i took a few pictures to help maybe we can decide what engine this is.. i got it off a guy on this site, a private deal. came from ontario.
my intake has 3 vaccum hoses facing the rear of the car: two under right by the throttle cable; and one beside where the fuel rail goes under, on the outer edge. theres three small ones on the opposite side of the intake beside the throttle linkage facing the front of the car. the last i found comes from the passenger side of manifold, and faces up (this is what i have my brake booster hose on.)
my three pictures go in order of my description.

lukec53

in the third pic, the hose is capped. thats the blue nub you see

HAILERS2

Looks to me to be a JDM engine. The last picture shows the source of vacuum for the brake booster on those JDM engines.

The three nipples one above the other: Top one to the primary fuel injectors AIR bleed b/t the two oil injectors on the manifold. Large nipple is AIR bleed to the spider that feeds the oil injectors air. Bottom nipple is the only one that is vacuum and goes to the left to the water thermos sensor there. Well at least on a USA built car it does. Not sure on that bottom one for a JDM manifold.

A known problem on JDM swaps: fuel lines are routed different on JDM vs USA at the left side of the engine. Try swapping the lines AT the engine and starting again. Or just explore to see if they are on right. Find the hose on the left that is the one coming from the fuel filter. Ignore it. Remove the hose from the other fuel pipe. Turn the key to ON only. Now jumper the fuel check connector on the right front side of the engine. Fuel pump should run and fuel should pour out the hard line of the engine where you remove the return hose IF the lines are on correct. Take action to mop up the fuel pouring on the floor.

IF the pump runs and no fuel comes out the return pipe on the engine.....................lines are probably crossed up. Swap 'em around and try again. Follow that?

lukec53

so i just tried my other CAS on this engine, and when i rotate the gear, i can see the one spark plug i took out sparking, and could hear the other one sparking also. i didnt hear my injectors, but from the look of the spark plug... it looks REALLY wet. almost too much. i attached a pic, it was full in between the electrode and outside and almost had a drip forming on it.

lukec53

ok so i took your advice to unhook my fuel line and check to see if it pours out. the lines WERE reversed. I had a guy helping me the day that the fuel lines got hooked up.. he had everything completely backwards. So i re-did my fuel lines so now when i touch start on my key i see my fuel pressure gauge spike a little, and fuel comes out my return line.
i went to start it and still got nothing, i pulled my spark plugs and egi comp fuse out and floored it as i cranked and saw a pretty good mist coming from my engine bay, so now i know i have fuel. after putting my spark plugs in i still had no firing. now my battery is pretty much dead so im updating here haha

HAILERS2

Maybe do the CAS spin thing again, but this time disable the lead and trail coil assys by pulling the elect plugs to them off. Should be able to hear a clicking of the primary injectors.

Wet plug could be oil???????? on the plug?

Or disable the fuel pump by unplugging it. Spray starter fluid into the afm/air filter for one to two seconds and try to start it. Should go varrrrooooom for a moment if spark and compression is there. Sort of looking for a clue.

lukec53

ok so after i got my fuel lines right, i had good pressure, and then it started dropping, and after that i couldnt get any pressure back. after some testing i narrowed it down to my pulsation dampener D: great now i have to take my intake manifold off... so a couple hours later here i am with my manifold off and sure enough, my pulsation dampener wont let any fuel through. can i fix it? could it just be lack of vacuum to the dampener?
do i need it? can it be bypassed?
once i get fuel flowing through this ill test my injectors right away before i put it all back together

lukec53

hey while this is off, what lines/hoses/sensors can i eliminate? i no longer have my ACV or BAC, anything i can clean up?

lukec53

Hey guys, i got my PD problem fixed, so i have pressure Im my rails now. I held my injectors in as i bumped my pressure up to 60, then turned my CAS. You could see my spark plug firing, but nothing came from my injectors... I changed my secondarys up to my primary plugs, and still no shots of fuel.

lukec53

hey guys good news! I finally got it strarted and running! It was my injectors (all measured 2.5 ohms) so i replaced them with my 450cc's temperarily and it started right away.
In my dash, my water temp is still acting up.. it starts at the top and as my engine warmed up, it did seem to show a reasonable reading. is it just a coincidence that it showed somwhere in the middle or is it working properly?

also, after i had my engine running for a little bit (getting it to idle) the smoke went away from the exhaust, i felt my upper rad cap, it was warm and my engine alltogether felt warm. the thing is.. my rad was still ice cold........ do these cars have thermostats in them?

also. this is the first turbo ive owned, but from the 15 mins the car was running, my turbo seemed VERY hot. Im assuming it was the (high heat) paint that was smoking, but still, is it supposed to be this hot? i flung some water on it from my hand near the front and it just crackled from the heat. is this normal?

HAILERS2

Exhaust gas goes thru the turbo so it's going to get hot.

lukec53

ok sweet. thanks HAILERS!

Anyone know about injectors? how do i run low inpedance on a car that has no resistor pack?

lukec53

So the cars running good and this thread is pretty much dead now, but I thought maybe I'd add some details of my solutions to the problems for anyone else reading this.
It turns out the turbo WAS getting too hot, because of lean running conditions. After it lit on fire in the driveway before my test drive I was reassured there was for sure something off. (dont worry i had a fire extinguisher handy just in case so no damage)
My solution to this was I swapped back to my turbo computer, and it richened up quite a bit. After test driving with an eye on my new air/fuel ratio i put in after the fire, i noticed it was still slightly lean, swapping in my turbo AFM solved this.
I was suprised to see it running stoich to rich even with the 460cc injectors *KEEPING OUT OF BOOST AT HIGHISH RMS*. (they will be swapped back the 550's asap. those 460's were just a temporary get-it-to-the-new-house fix.

oregon rx7

Hey in your pic there is a plug with two wires in the big air intake for intercooler what is it called I'm missing mine doing the same swap 88 vert s4 turbo swap

lukec53

Are you talking about the two-wire sensor shown by the YELLOW arrow in this picture?