Engine storing procedure
06-15-02, 09:31 PM
#1
Engine storing procedure
I had the luck of finding 5 j-spec 89-91 engines for sale on thursday. the company selling them is willing to part with all 5 for $2800 including shipping. I'll get a 6 month warranty with each motor.
I plan to run them for about two weeks each to make sure all is well, then I'll put the one with the best compression in my car.
I'm basically getting all 5 because I think the motors will all blow up eventually. Having backups is never a bad thing. Its the same philosophy as R/C parts.... "as long as you're at the hobby shop, might as well pickup a few extra parts if they're cheap."
I need to know what types of maintenance i need to do to make sure that these engines stay alive while sitting my garage.
I plan to run them for about two weeks each to make sure all is well, then I'll put the one with the best compression in my car.
I'm basically getting all 5 because I think the motors will all blow up eventually. Having backups is never a bad thing. Its the same philosophy as R/C parts.... "as long as you're at the hobby shop, might as well pickup a few extra parts if they're cheap."
I need to know what types of maintenance i need to do to make sure that these engines stay alive while sitting my garage.
06-16-02, 09:53 AM
#4
Engine, Not Motor
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Don't use ATF. Period.
I simply use fogging oil. Shoot it in the bottom spark plug hole while you turn the engine over by hand. The trick is to shoot it in as the rotor begins to head toward the bottom of the engine...At that point, there will be a slight "sucking" and it will pull in the oil...Do this for 5 or 6 revolutions, then put the spark plug back in.
Change the oil.
Also, hit the throttle arm and related moving components (both inside the intake and outside) with fogging oil.
I simply use fogging oil. Shoot it in the bottom spark plug hole while you turn the engine over by hand. The trick is to shoot it in as the rotor begins to head toward the bottom of the engine...At that point, there will be a slight "sucking" and it will pull in the oil...Do this for 5 or 6 revolutions, then put the spark plug back in.
Change the oil.
Also, hit the throttle arm and related moving components (both inside the intake and outside) with fogging oil.
06-16-02, 03:49 PM
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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Because ATF is bad for the engine. It's automatic transmissin fluid, not rotary engine storing/cleaning/fixing/magic cure fluid.
The "ATF trick" is only to be done under these circumstances:
1. Highly flooded engine
2. Carbon locked engine
The "ATF trick" is only to be done under these circumstances:
1. Highly flooded engine
2. Carbon locked engine
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06-16-02, 04:02 PM
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
Because ATF is bad for the engine. It's automatic transmissin fluid, not rotary engine storing/cleaning/fixing/magic cure fluid.
The "ATF trick" is only to be done under these circumstances:
1. Highly flooded engine
2. Carbon locked engine
Because ATF is bad for the engine. It's automatic transmissin fluid, not rotary engine storing/cleaning/fixing/magic cure fluid.
The "ATF trick" is only to be done under these circumstances:
1. Highly flooded engine
2. Carbon locked engine
06-16-02, 05:27 PM
#9
Engine, Not Motor
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I'm not going to get into it...But rest assured I will be posting a long write-up on this when I next update my website.
Fogging oil is a thick oil in a spray can, available at any automotive shop. It is designed to be sprayed into an engine before storage, and clings to the cylinder/rotor housings.
Fogging oil is a thick oil in a spray can, available at any automotive shop. It is designed to be sprayed into an engine before storage, and clings to the cylinder/rotor housings.
06-16-02, 05:35 PM
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you know I asked this question a few weeks ago and noone could give me a good answer. I would also like to look at your web site can you give an address for it.
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