engine starting
03-07-13, 03:37 PM
#29
K, now jumper the fuel pump test connector again, turn ignition on, leave the jumper on and start the car.
Any change? Try to keep the car from stalling by opening the throttle if needed.
The gas may be bad, but why would it only stall after a couple of min is what I'm thinking...
Also, not sure if you said...fuel filter new?
Any change? Try to keep the car from stalling by opening the throttle if needed.
The gas may be bad, but why would it only stall after a couple of min is what I'm thinking...
Also, not sure if you said...fuel filter new?
03-11-13, 08:51 AM
#30
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Got the fuel tank cleaned out this weekend and replaced filter, fuel pump, purged the line and it fired right up. I ran it for about 15 minutes to get it warmed up and then pulled the codes. The only one that popped was 12 for the high side TPS. Went through about 5 that I bought from people here that claimed that they were good until I found one that actually was. Now I'm trying to get the timing set. I ground out the green check connector (single pin by the battery) and tried to adjust the low side idle. I must have spun that little screw on BPAV all the way in an out and it didn't make any difference. Put the timing light on it and it's like 30 degrees out. I didn't even think that was possible. Made sure that I was on the front leading plug and tried again. same thing. Lined up the timining mark on the eccentric shaft and pulled the CAS and made sure the mark on the bottom was lined up and it was. The pully only mounts on the shaft one way because of the way the screw holes are machined. I either put the rotors in wrong or something else is amiss. I'm going to have to pull the motor back out anyway because between the rear rotor housing and the rear iron, it's weeping a little coolant. Yeah, back to the drawing board. I think I'm going to put this one on the back burner again and get the 91 NA water seals replaced. I've rebuilt 5 rotarys and never ever had this much trouble. Of course this is my first turbo rebuild but I shouldn't think this would be such a pain in the a**
03-11-13, 09:50 AM
#31
the test connector just disengages the BAC, the idle still needs to dip below 1k RPMs to be able to set idle to base timing so that may explain your difficulty. you can't install the rotors in a wrong position that will screw with the timing, they can go in on any gear you feel like and always work out the same.
the CAS gear could be flipped, which will make the CAS sit in a strange position when set but that's about it. there is a beveled edge on the gear that is installed towards the engine is all.
the CAS gear could be flipped, which will make the CAS sit in a strange position when set but that's about it. there is a beveled edge on the gear that is installed towards the engine is all.
03-14-13, 01:20 PM
#32
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What does the highband TPS do? I'm still getting that code, but the one I have installed is metering good both open and closed. Wiring from the TPS to the ECU is good and the grounds have been checked
03-14-13, 01:27 PM
#33
AFAIK it just aids in closed loop operation, it shouldn't give much if any negative impact.
a faulty narrowband TPS sensor on the other hand will give all sorts of strange symptoms, because it is used for decel fuel cut and off throttle timing control.
a faulty narrowband TPS sensor on the other hand will give all sorts of strange symptoms, because it is used for decel fuel cut and off throttle timing control.
03-25-13, 10:03 PM
#34
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Thanks for the info. I think I finally got it to time right and it was a matter of putting in the CAS in and out a bunch of times to get the right fit. One tooth one way and the CAS is against the stop and not quite right, One tooth the other way and it's against the other stop and not quite right.
I got the engine on the S5 NA pulled an torn down. The only thing I really noticed was that on the front iron the inner water seal was pulled apart from the teflon ring that goes around the outside of the seal. The car was pumping volumes of white smoke and blowing anti freeze out of the exhaust and making bubbles in the over flow tank. I didn't find any more damage, but the oil was almost like tar and it's only been in there for just under 3000 miles. Also noticed a couple of spots of slight bluing on the rear rotor, but nothing to serious and no bluing on the ecentric shaft. So clean it up and put it back together. Maybe not use so much Hylomar as I noticed that there was a little squeezed into the rotor housing around the edge.
I got the engine on the S5 NA pulled an torn down. The only thing I really noticed was that on the front iron the inner water seal was pulled apart from the teflon ring that goes around the outside of the seal. The car was pumping volumes of white smoke and blowing anti freeze out of the exhaust and making bubbles in the over flow tank. I didn't find any more damage, but the oil was almost like tar and it's only been in there for just under 3000 miles. Also noticed a couple of spots of slight bluing on the rear rotor, but nothing to serious and no bluing on the ecentric shaft. So clean it up and put it back together. Maybe not use so much Hylomar as I noticed that there was a little squeezed into the rotor housing around the edge.
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