engine rebuild info
03-18-05, 03:52 AM
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engine rebuild info
i have a 87 with 187,000 and the motor runs perfect. i bought it from original owner who babied it and drove it everywhere until parked in 02 when he bought a new tbird and let it sit. after not starting for 2 years it started first try and i wanted to know what goes into rebuilding a 13b. do you replace rotors and all or seals and stuff of that nature. and if i just need to replace seals and those sort of things will it be like a rebuilt piston motor and be fresh or will it still be considered a high mileage motor? any and all info appritiated, thanks
03-18-05, 10:24 AM
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If you REALLY want to know, buy the video with Bruce Taurrentine on rebuilding a 13b.....
http://rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_video.htm
Its better than the atkins video because Bruce shows you every trick "not" in the book as well as DETAILED descriptions on what is considered useable and junk as far as used parts....
Ther are tools and supplies you will need that you will want to get ahead of time, these are also clearely laid out.
http://rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_video.htm
Its better than the atkins video because Bruce shows you every trick "not" in the book as well as DETAILED descriptions on what is considered useable and junk as far as used parts....
Ther are tools and supplies you will need that you will want to get ahead of time, these are also clearely laid out.
03-18-05, 11:05 AM
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i looked through the archives but didnt see anything? what i really need to know is if you replace rotors and all or seals and stuff of that nature. and if i just need to replace seals and those sort of things will it be like a rebuilt piston motor and be fresh or will it still be considered a high mileage motor? any and all info appritiated, thanks
03-18-05, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by N/Arx7
and if i just need to replace seals and those sort of things will it be like a rebuilt piston motor and be fresh or will it still be considered a high mileage motor?
i would think that it'll still be a high-mileage engine cuz you're re-using the rotors, housings, etc. but once it's rebuilt it's good to go for another 100k miles.
03-18-05, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by N/Arx7
i looked through the archives but didnt see anything? what i really need to know is if you replace rotors and all or seals and stuff of that nature. and if i just need to replace seals and those sort of things will it be like a rebuilt piston motor and be fresh or will it still be considered a high mileage motor? any and all info appritiated, thanks
OK... Here's how it goes.... You won't know untill you take it apart if you need to replace the rotors or housings... you have to check a lot of wear points and inspect for obvious damage..
these things you will HAVE to replace....
the "soft seals" (water and combustion O Rings, Rotor Oil Seal O rings .. etc)
The rotor bearings (don't even bother checking them, with that many miles, they should be replaced... )
Stationary gear bearings (see above)
These really SHOULD be replaced, but if it specs out and you're on a budget they are reusable...
Apex seals and springs
Side Seals and Springs
Coner Seals and springs (susbstitute third gen corner seal springs)
Oil Pump chain (if its not out of spec by now, its close)
rotor oil seal hard rings (its $240 for a set..... most guys use the old ones even if they are iffy, this is one of the BIG differences in the price of a basic kit versus a full rebuild kit)
The rotors only need replaced if they are really screwed up. If the apex seal groves are out of spec, you can have them milled to 3mm seals.
Housings... These HAVE to be inspected.. at around 450 a pop.... i always am hoping to god that they are ok when i pop a motor open.
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03-18-05, 02:59 PM
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Engine, Not Motor
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The thread in the archives is by me. It's called "Pics and status of my turbo-NA-bridgeport engine build" or something similar. If you ignore all the extra stuff (oil mods and porting) then it's a good overview of the step-by-step build process.
03-18-05, 03:43 PM
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as long as the bearings show no sign of wear, leave em in there. I would for sure for sure change apex seals and springs, corner seals and springs, oil control o rings, and all soft seals inside the motor(water jackets innner and outer, dowel pin o rings, and front and rear mains. I wouldnt reuse the housings, if they are reasonably okay I would atleast get them lapped. If not buy some cermet b housings from JHB Performance, cheaper than new and better than new. Maybe get the irons machined too if the have lots or grooves.
03-18-05, 11:15 PM
#11
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The only hard part I would definatly replace would be the Apex seals. Everything else can be checked for tolerances. rubbers should all go in the trash and new ones replaced.
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