2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Engine not responding to full throttle... 87 TII.

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Old 03-19-13 | 09:09 PM
  #26  
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I am going threw the same issue except i have a 87 with a N332 and still low impedence injectors, but I can drive mine for a minute then it won't rev, but if I shut the key off and re start, it is normal again but the cycle continues .
Old 03-19-13 | 09:22 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
i would check to see if the car has the harness and/or resistor pack, if there isn't one then your ECU is correct for the car assuming the injectors are high impedence as well.

Ceramic resistor pack appearing to be connected...

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Old 03-20-13 | 01:04 PM
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hmm, i'm still wondering what impedence injectors are in the engine, with the resistor pack it would need the low impedence '87 injectors but has a swapped ECU since it is an '87 model(it will still work but someone has been swapping parts around).
Old 03-20-13 | 02:07 PM
  #29  
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the Ecu sees HI Impedance anyways.
both the 332 and 333 were meant to see that.
the only difference is the Resistor pack and injector impedance.
Add the resistors and LO's and get HI.
just the HI's and get..HI.
Old 03-20-13 | 02:13 PM
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well that air filter could be part of the problem, i bet that thing weighs 5lb with it soaked in dirt/grease.
Old 03-20-13 | 11:50 PM
  #31  
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Well the injectors are so buried that I'm not attempting to take everything apart to check them out, especially since it looks like it hasn't been touched in over two decades. I put in the 87 ECU and hoped for the best. It feels like that did the trick. I can't take it for a test spin since the car is slammed too too low. I can't even make it out of the driveway.
Old 03-25-13 | 11:08 PM
  #32  
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Ok so the right ECU definatly did the trick. And after doing some rim / tire swapping & rolling the fenders, I was able to take her for a spin. The car drives really nice so long as I stay very light on the pedal. As soon as I try to get into the pedal and the boost gauge sees 10 psi (I think) it sputters.

Also start up gives me trouble. She starts but not what I would expect FI to act like. I have to get her warm before I can step away from playing the pedal and then she's idling at 1500.
Old 03-26-13 | 08:10 PM
  #33  
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Actually I just took her for another ride and she's fine if I slightly give throttle even way into the stock boost gauge. Any more pedal and she stutters. Start up, warm up and idle are still a mess. Even if someone throws me a guess I'd have somewhere to at least start....?
Old 03-26-13 | 08:28 PM
  #34  
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sounds like a pressure sensor issue or secondary injectors not coming online. you can get some boost off primaries only but any heavy loads requires all 4. in fact it sounds like your whole fuel system is a mess and may simply be low fuel pressure.
Old 03-27-13 | 05:22 PM
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Maybe I'll put a fuel pressure gauge in line somewhere to see what the fuel pressure is reading...??
Old 03-30-13 | 10:07 AM
  #36  
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So I put a fuel pressure gauge in line after the fuel filter and ran the line up to the windshield so I can see what its doing while driving. Idle is at 30psi steady (still @ 1500 rpms tho) and when driving she stays at 30psi even under boost according to the stock boost gauge. Defiantly feels like the secondaries are not being feed fuel.

A few pics...

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Old 03-30-13 | 02:53 PM
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30psi is low for under boost but it should still rev, just run a little on the lean side.

the secondaries are fed the same fuel as the primaries, the issue would be the injectors themselves either stuck or not being turned on by the ECU either through a bad power feed, ECU input issue or a wiring issue to the injectors from the ecu/ground.
Old 03-30-13 | 03:41 PM
  #38  
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Ohhhh boy. Sounds complicated.
Old 03-30-13 | 03:47 PM
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start by checking the ground strap on the rear rotor housing. there is 2 black wires attached to a ring terminal, one leg feeds ground to the ECU for the primaries and the other for the secondaries.
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