engine install, cranks, but no fire.
12-01-02, 04:04 PM
#27
FC Mobsta
Thread Starter
also....there are two black connectors that are next to ecu that are not plugged in, one looks male, the other female, but they dont plug into one another? Are those not supposed to be plugged in? Anybody wanna re-assure me that there ok?
12-01-02, 05:30 PM
#28
FC Mobsta
Thread Starter
anyone about the two black connectors right by ECU, right hand side of it? Any other connectors to check? I've went through em twice. Also, there is a connector on the BAC valve that grounds to the manifold, that was plugged it, green and brown wire i believe....i dont have the connector b/c it was cut on the harness so i hooked wires to it and put them on the prongs where connector is supposed to go, tired both ways, no difference. What is this for, and would it cause me to not fire. Shares a common ground with something maybe??
12-01-02, 05:34 PM
#29
HAILERS
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About the cas. You aligned the marks and stabed it. Did you take the top off the cas prior to doing this, to make sure the cas was on the mark after installing it??
Since you have already taken the cas out in the past, do this. Take it out. Lay all the plugs near the chassis. Turn the key to on. Now spin the cas with your fingers from the bottom gear on it. Do this with the cas connector connected and nothing else disconnected. You should see the sparks flying out of the sparkplug wires. If you do see good spark, then reinstall the cas, making sure the top cover is off, lower gear aligned, and pulley is on the mark. When through stabbing, the relationship of the gear in the top of the cas should be where it was prior to stabbing it..
So now you know you have fire. Now disconnect the fuel pump plug under the left rear strut tower(or pull the fuse under the dash above the steering shaft). Now spray into the snorkel prior to the afm for about two seconds. Try to start the car. IF there is any spark at all, the car will go varoom. No varoom, change just the LEAD plugs(trail don't do squat in this situation, waste of money right now). Do the spray several times IF you get a varoom. Then reconnect the fuel pump/relay whatever.
It might be a good idea just prior to the starter fluid bit, to take the lower sparkplugs out and spin the engine for about ten seconds to clear the garbage out, then put them back in and do the starter fluid thing.
My gut feeling tells me your timing is off quite a bit since you insinuate you have fire. Just stabbing the cas with the lower marks aligned does not cut it.
Since you have already taken the cas out in the past, do this. Take it out. Lay all the plugs near the chassis. Turn the key to on. Now spin the cas with your fingers from the bottom gear on it. Do this with the cas connector connected and nothing else disconnected. You should see the sparks flying out of the sparkplug wires. If you do see good spark, then reinstall the cas, making sure the top cover is off, lower gear aligned, and pulley is on the mark. When through stabbing, the relationship of the gear in the top of the cas should be where it was prior to stabbing it..
So now you know you have fire. Now disconnect the fuel pump plug under the left rear strut tower(or pull the fuse under the dash above the steering shaft). Now spray into the snorkel prior to the afm for about two seconds. Try to start the car. IF there is any spark at all, the car will go varoom. No varoom, change just the LEAD plugs(trail don't do squat in this situation, waste of money right now). Do the spray several times IF you get a varoom. Then reconnect the fuel pump/relay whatever.
It might be a good idea just prior to the starter fluid bit, to take the lower sparkplugs out and spin the engine for about ten seconds to clear the garbage out, then put them back in and do the starter fluid thing.
My gut feeling tells me your timing is off quite a bit since you insinuate you have fire. Just stabbing the cas with the lower marks aligned does not cut it.
12-01-02, 05:47 PM
#30
FC Mobsta
Thread Starter
thanks alot for the tip on the CAS, ill defenitely try that. When i put the CAS back in with the cap off, theres a gear/pin or something that i should see aligned with where i made my marks? Timing sounds like it could be the problem.
When i spray in starting fluid, it will shake alot and you can tell its burning inside....IT WANTS TO FIRE!!!!
Any info on those 2 black connectors by ecu? i'm almost positive they were unplugged before my engine went.
When i spray in starting fluid, it will shake alot and you can tell its burning inside....IT WANTS TO FIRE!!!!
Any info on those 2 black connectors by ecu? i'm almost positive they were unplugged before my engine went.
12-01-02, 06:05 PM
#31
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About the cas. Remove the top. The center shaft moves. The housing does not. Once the bottom gear is aligned, take a look in the top of the cas. Mentally note where the moving parts are in relationship to just about any spot on the stationary housing. Now stab the cas. You'll see that the shaft has rotated a bit since you stabbed the cas. Now turn the cas body until the marks you made a mental note of, are aligned. Clamp the cas.
The plugs near the ECU?? Most likely for a abs system that isn't a part of your car. The manufacturer has a bunch of these plugs laying around the car. Such as for a cruise control unit or electric mirrors. Give us the number of pins on each plug and maybe(I said maybe) we can tell you what they are for. I doubt it is related to your problem.
I think I read in the above story of your problem that one rotor is suspect as far as compression. Its gonna be a bit harder to start on one rotor.
Just a note of caution here. Do not try to keep the engine running by a continuous spray of starter fluid. Just spray for about two seconds in the intake and try to start. If there is spark of any kind, then it'll varoom for a second. The idea here is to decide if its a fuel problem or not. Make sure the fuel pump is disable prior to this. You do this to make SURE that your not flooding the engine. Hard starting cars really wear out starters. Look for starter problems in your future.
I'd still do the bit of spinning the cas by its gear to make sure the plugs are a firing( connectors off the sparkplugs while you do this. Just looking for spark from each plug connector. MIght as well do it since your going to have the cas out anyway.
The plugs near the ECU?? Most likely for a abs system that isn't a part of your car. The manufacturer has a bunch of these plugs laying around the car. Such as for a cruise control unit or electric mirrors. Give us the number of pins on each plug and maybe(I said maybe) we can tell you what they are for. I doubt it is related to your problem.
I think I read in the above story of your problem that one rotor is suspect as far as compression. Its gonna be a bit harder to start on one rotor.
Just a note of caution here. Do not try to keep the engine running by a continuous spray of starter fluid. Just spray for about two seconds in the intake and try to start. If there is spark of any kind, then it'll varoom for a second. The idea here is to decide if its a fuel problem or not. Make sure the fuel pump is disable prior to this. You do this to make SURE that your not flooding the engine. Hard starting cars really wear out starters. Look for starter problems in your future.
I'd still do the bit of spinning the cas by its gear to make sure the plugs are a firing( connectors off the sparkplugs while you do this. Just looking for spark from each plug connector. MIght as well do it since your going to have the cas out anyway.
Last edited by HAILERS; 12-01-02 at 06:12 PM.
12-01-02, 06:20 PM
#32
FC Mobsta
Thread Starter
Originally posted by HAILERS
About the cas. Remove the top. The center shaft moves. The housing does not. Once the bottom gear is aligned, take a look in the top of the cas. Mentally note where the moving parts are in relationship to just about any spot on the stationary housing. Now stab the cas. You'll see that the shaft has rotated a bit since you stabbed the cas. Now turn the cas body until the marks you made a mental note of, are aligned. Clamp the cas.
The plugs near the ECU?? Most likely for a abs system that isn't a part of your car. The manufacturer has a bunch of these plugs laying around the car. Such as for a cruise control unit or electric mirrors. Give us the number of pins on each plug and maybe(I said maybe) we can tell you what they are for. I doubt it is related to your problem.
I think I read in the above story of your problem that one rotor is suspect as far as compression. Its gonna be a bit harder to start on one rotor.
Just a note of caution here. Do not try to keep the engine running by a continuous spray of starter fluid. Just spray for about two seconds in the intake and try to start. If there is spark of any kind, then it'll varoom for a second. The idea here is to decide if its a fuel problem or not. Make sure the fuel pump is disable prior to this. You do this to make SURE that your not flooding the engine. Hard starting cars really wear out starters. Look for starter problems in your future.
I'd still do the bit of spinning the cas by its gear to make sure the plugs are a firing( connectors off the sparkplugs while you do this. Just looking for spark from each plug connector. MIght as well do it since your going to have the cas out anyway.
About the cas. Remove the top. The center shaft moves. The housing does not. Once the bottom gear is aligned, take a look in the top of the cas. Mentally note where the moving parts are in relationship to just about any spot on the stationary housing. Now stab the cas. You'll see that the shaft has rotated a bit since you stabbed the cas. Now turn the cas body until the marks you made a mental note of, are aligned. Clamp the cas.
The plugs near the ECU?? Most likely for a abs system that isn't a part of your car. The manufacturer has a bunch of these plugs laying around the car. Such as for a cruise control unit or electric mirrors. Give us the number of pins on each plug and maybe(I said maybe) we can tell you what they are for. I doubt it is related to your problem.
I think I read in the above story of your problem that one rotor is suspect as far as compression. Its gonna be a bit harder to start on one rotor.
Just a note of caution here. Do not try to keep the engine running by a continuous spray of starter fluid. Just spray for about two seconds in the intake and try to start. If there is spark of any kind, then it'll varoom for a second. The idea here is to decide if its a fuel problem or not. Make sure the fuel pump is disable prior to this. You do this to make SURE that your not flooding the engine. Hard starting cars really wear out starters. Look for starter problems in your future.
I'd still do the bit of spinning the cas by its gear to make sure the plugs are a firing( connectors off the sparkplugs while you do this. Just looking for spark from each plug connector. MIght as well do it since your going to have the cas out anyway.
Oh and...yes my starter is getting its *** kicked pretty good...and I'm sure it will be in need of a replacement after awhile.....but thats the LEAST of my problems right now...hehe...i can change it later if it goes in 5 minutes tops.
Thanks again.
12-01-02, 08:03 PM
#33
FC Mobsta
Thread Starter
ok..i went out and took the cap of the CAS...I see some wires around inside rim, then in middle theres the long stright piece, then a starwheel gear below it..the straight piece is sitting straight up and down. Not in line with where I makred from the CAS to the block, but I dont understand why it should be? When you say stab it, you just mean mark it so you can get it back in where you removed it?
12-01-02, 09:52 PM
#34
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My communicating skills are not quite up to the job. I'll try again.
In my hand I have a cas. I'm looking at the bottom. I've aligned the dimple on the gear with the tear drop shaped mark on the housing.
Now. while holding everything steady, I'm looking in the top of the cas. There I see a two tooth gear and a twenty four tooth gear below. Now the idea is to see what ANY tooth is opposite on the fixed parts on the cas. One of the two teeth on the upper gear part is pointing towards the edge of one of the reluctors(those black square things). Good.........Now with the pulley mark right on the mark, I insert the cas. While inserting the cas, I notice that the shaft and the gears move . No sweat. Once shoved all the way down, I can now align the tooth opposite the edge of the reluctor, just as it was prior to inserting the cas, by rotating the cas body until they align.
The above makes sense to me, but that may be because I'm used to doing it. It may be gibberish for all I know. Bottom line is....if its alingned on top, then the dot and embossed mark are aligned on the bottom also.
Anyway, you can see now, that when installing the cas, how the rotating shaft moves relative to the body. Which means that the two marks at the bottom are not aligned anymore. Not a good thing. So you get them back in alingment by rotating the body of the cas until the item on top are aligned again.
Someone has written a better description on this site. If I find it, I''ll post it. Some other day though. There's a naked lady on tv right now.
In my hand I have a cas. I'm looking at the bottom. I've aligned the dimple on the gear with the tear drop shaped mark on the housing.
Now. while holding everything steady, I'm looking in the top of the cas. There I see a two tooth gear and a twenty four tooth gear below. Now the idea is to see what ANY tooth is opposite on the fixed parts on the cas. One of the two teeth on the upper gear part is pointing towards the edge of one of the reluctors(those black square things). Good.........Now with the pulley mark right on the mark, I insert the cas. While inserting the cas, I notice that the shaft and the gears move . No sweat. Once shoved all the way down, I can now align the tooth opposite the edge of the reluctor, just as it was prior to inserting the cas, by rotating the cas body until they align.
The above makes sense to me, but that may be because I'm used to doing it. It may be gibberish for all I know. Bottom line is....if its alingned on top, then the dot and embossed mark are aligned on the bottom also.
Anyway, you can see now, that when installing the cas, how the rotating shaft moves relative to the body. Which means that the two marks at the bottom are not aligned anymore. Not a good thing. So you get them back in alingment by rotating the body of the cas until the item on top are aligned again.
Someone has written a better description on this site. If I find it, I''ll post it. Some other day though. There's a naked lady on tv right now.
12-01-02, 10:05 PM
#35
FC Mobsta
Thread Starter
your communicating skills are up to the job now.. 
hehe. I understand, its kind of like installing a timing belt on a overhead cam engine, when you tighten the tensioner after aligning the gears, it moves off alignment. It makes sense to me now, and it makes sense how that could through off the timing alot. I will try that tomorow and let you know if I have sucess. Thanks.
hehe. I understand, its kind of like installing a timing belt on a overhead cam engine, when you tighten the tensioner after aligning the gears, it moves off alignment. It makes sense to me now, and it makes sense how that could through off the timing alot. I will try that tomorow and let you know if I have sucess. Thanks.
12-02-02, 09:10 PM
#36
FC Mobsta
Thread Starter
Just to let you guys no that replied and everybody else....IT STARTED!!!!!! My CAS was way off (timing, spark prolly firing on exhaust) I ended up towing it behind our truck and 4th time it fired....YAHHH...ran it for 10-15 mins prolly at 1500k, temp was good. It wont hod idle though, no biggie to me, JUST WANTED IT TO RUN!! My compression seems to have come up a bit, cuz i pulled plugs and cranked and swoosh got way louder. Think prolly just have to adjust my idle screw. I'm still smiling!
Thanks alot to all my buds for helping me too....Steven (matlock), marlong (asianflip06) and by buddy Dan...and all the guys that replied.
) I ended up towing it behind our truck and 4th time it fired....YAHHH...ran it for 10-15 mins prolly at 1500k, temp was good. It wont hod idle though, no biggie to me, JUST WANTED IT TO RUN!! My compression seems to have come up a bit, cuz i pulled plugs and cranked and swoosh got way louder. Think prolly just have to adjust my idle screw. I'm still smiling! Thanks alot to all my buds for helping me too....Steven (matlock), marlong (asianflip06) and by buddy Dan...and all the guys that replied.
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