-=1OneShotNO2=-

Im pretty sure my coolant seals are gone on this car I just bought. Havent done a compression test yet but the exhaust smells sweet, frequent coolant loss with no leaks, and I was gettin alot of white smoke out of it the other day. Also its hard to start sometimes.. itll crank for a while and BARELY start with the pedal floored. Any recomendations as to what i should do?.. besides save for a rebuild. Oh and what kind of numbers am i lookin for on the compression test?

Puchi

It is very hard to ascertain the condition of the internals of the engine very easily, and the agreed upon method is a compression test. A rotary engine would normally require a specialized Mazda meter, but most people don't have access to one locally; you can try and contact your local Mazda dealer to see if they can do a "rotary engine compression test" for you. A piston engine compression tester is usually used as a substitute; we need to bypass or remove the check valve that keeps the highest compression reading in the gauge. By defeating the check valve, we can monitor the three faces of each rotor easily. The key to this "modified" compression test is to shoot for three, even bounces on the compression tester gauge needle. Uneven bounces would indicate a bad seal. Readings between front and rear rotors should be pretty close; the Mazda tolerance is around 20psi between front and rear rotors. "Good" engines should be able to hit around the 100psi mark. Anything lower than 70psi is indicative of a tired engine that needs a rebuild. Bottom line is you want even readings from all rotors face and from front to rear rather than several really high peaks mixed in with a bunch of lower ones. Any uneven readings is a hint of a possible blown engine.


Quoted from http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html

Nitrometano

You can use a stock compression gauge. For the coolant problem you can use a block sealer. This will work. Actualy we are usig one of that sealer in a 8 seconds rotary engine car.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

you crazy puerto ricans 8 second engine huh? whats it in? some sort of old school car probably huh? Anyways usually a blown water seal has all the symptoms you're talking about. Did you try taking the radiator cap off and cranking the car without the egi fuse in to see if the water bubbles over???

-=1OneShotNO2=-

Havent tried the EGI fuse yet but i will. I wanna try the block sealer too, i was expecting to have to get a rebuild asap but iff block sealer will hold my engine for half a year so i can save im all up for it.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I've always heard block sealer will ruin the chances of having a rebuildable core after using that stuff but I've never done it so I'm not sure. Maybe someone else can chime in and set it straight for me.

Carzy Driver

in my opinion, block sealer should be next to last resort. sealer founds the leak, stops the leak and tends to clog the surrounding water jacket in the motor which will cause a hot spot which can lead to more damage. So drive something else if you can but start saving up for a rebuild only like $150 on ebay for what you need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Overh...8318QQtcZphoto

-=1OneShotNO2=-

Aiite thanks. Is there anything i should do to preserve the engine and keep from screwing it up further (other than not drive it)