Engine Fire (pics)
09-28-04, 02:57 PM
#27
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
TO the people who like to bitch about the PD bolt fix:
I'd rather have an "improper" bolt than to have this result. DO what you gotta do.
Looks like youre gonna need all new injectors, harness, vacuum hose job, and a lot of cleaning.
I'd rather have an "improper" bolt than to have this result. DO what you gotta do.
Looks like youre gonna need all new injectors, harness, vacuum hose job, and a lot of cleaning.
09-28-04, 03:43 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
IT's a "do something" vs. "do nothing" thread...
09-28-04, 05:02 PM
#32
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long story short here are options for interested forum members:
replace PD : costly, but retains oem fuel rail, and is worry free.. till it breaks again
replace lower fuel rail with s5: costly, but looks clean, and is much safer than s4 rail
replace pd with banjo bolt: costs about 12$ from summit, practically indestructible, but rumored to cause injector failure/fuel pressure regulator problems down the road.
replace PD : costly, but retains oem fuel rail, and is worry free.. till it breaks again
replace lower fuel rail with s5: costly, but looks clean, and is much safer than s4 rail
replace pd with banjo bolt: costs about 12$ from summit, practically indestructible, but rumored to cause injector failure/fuel pressure regulator problems down the road.
09-28-04, 05:52 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by rs_1101
long story short here are options for interested forum members:
replace PD : costly, but retains oem fuel rail, and is worry free.. till it breaks again
replace lower fuel rail with s5: costly, but looks clean, and is much safer than s4 rail
replace pd with banjo bolt: costs about 12$ from summit, practically indestructible, but rumored to cause injector failure/fuel pressure regulator problems down the road.
replace PD : costly, but retains oem fuel rail, and is worry free.. till it breaks again
replace lower fuel rail with s5: costly, but looks clean, and is much safer than s4 rail
replace pd with banjo bolt: costs about 12$ from summit, practically indestructible, but rumored to cause injector failure/fuel pressure regulator problems down the road.
09-28-04, 05:58 PM
#34
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if you were really fortuitous you could just look for an in line fuel pulse dampener, that you can install on a fuel line, but you still have to buy the banjo bolt.
DO NOT epoxy/glue/weld/rtv/whatever your current pd shut. its just asking for trouble.gas is pretty corrosive stuff. better off just doing banjo bolt.
a few forum members have suggested just using larger lengths of soft fuel line between the primary and secondary rails.
ive used a banjo bolt on my car, i have to admit it works surprisingly well. i dont think theres anything wrong with using it on an n/a car. weve got huge injectors, and they can take alittle bit of abuse. long story short is that injectors are cheap, engine harnesses arent.
DO NOT epoxy/glue/weld/rtv/whatever your current pd shut. its just asking for trouble.gas is pretty corrosive stuff. better off just doing banjo bolt.
a few forum members have suggested just using larger lengths of soft fuel line between the primary and secondary rails.
ive used a banjo bolt on my car, i have to admit it works surprisingly well. i dont think theres anything wrong with using it on an n/a car. weve got huge injectors, and they can take alittle bit of abuse. long story short is that injectors are cheap, engine harnesses arent.
09-28-04, 06:13 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by rs_1101
if you were really fortuitous you could just look for an in line fuel pulse dampener, that you can install on a fuel line, but you still have to buy the banjo bolt.
DO NOT epoxy/glue/weld/rtv/whatever your current pd shut. its just asking for trouble.gas is pretty corrosive stuff. better off just doing banjo bolt.
a few forum members have suggested just using larger lengths of soft fuel line between the primary and secondary rails.
ive used a banjo bolt on my car, i have to admit it works surprisingly well. i dont think theres anything wrong with using it on an n/a car. weve got huge injectors, and they can take alittle bit of abuse. long story short is that injectors are cheap, engine harnesses arent.
DO NOT epoxy/glue/weld/rtv/whatever your current pd shut. its just asking for trouble.gas is pretty corrosive stuff. better off just doing banjo bolt.
a few forum members have suggested just using larger lengths of soft fuel line between the primary and secondary rails.
ive used a banjo bolt on my car, i have to admit it works surprisingly well. i dont think theres anything wrong with using it on an n/a car. weve got huge injectors, and they can take alittle bit of abuse. long story short is that injectors are cheap, engine harnesses arent.
09-30-04, 12:18 AM
#36
Originally Posted by rs_1101
if you were really fortuitous you could just look for an in line fuel pulse dampener, that you can install on a fuel line, but you still have to buy the banjo bolt.
DO NOT epoxy/glue/weld/rtv/whatever your current pd shut. its just asking for trouble.gas is pretty corrosive stuff. better off just doing banjo bolt.
a few forum members have suggested just using larger lengths of soft fuel line between the primary and secondary rails.
ive used a banjo bolt on my car, i have to admit it works surprisingly well. i dont think theres anything wrong with using it on an n/a car. weve got huge injectors, and they can take alittle bit of abuse. long story short is that injectors are cheap, engine harnesses arent.
DO NOT epoxy/glue/weld/rtv/whatever your current pd shut. its just asking for trouble.gas is pretty corrosive stuff. better off just doing banjo bolt.
a few forum members have suggested just using larger lengths of soft fuel line between the primary and secondary rails.
ive used a banjo bolt on my car, i have to admit it works surprisingly well. i dont think theres anything wrong with using it on an n/a car. weve got huge injectors, and they can take alittle bit of abuse. long story short is that injectors are cheap, engine harnesses arent.
ouch
09-30-04, 03:20 PM
#38
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i will admit after doing some testing using hi vs. low octane, and pd/no pd.. using the banjo bolt seems to cause slight hesitation at 3800. just barely. i also noticed hesitation using high octane fuel (95+) in my na.
09-30-04, 03:28 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by rs_1101
i will admit after doing some testing using hi vs. low octane, and pd/no pd.. using the banjo bolt seems to cause slight hesitation at 3800. just barely. i also noticed hesitation using high octane fuel (95+) in my na.
09-30-04, 03:37 PM
#40
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what are some of the things to watch out for or test if a PD is about to fail? i heard u gotta let the car warm up and then put ur finger on the PD , see if it vibrates. but how do u do that when the engine is running? a bit confused here.....
09-30-04, 03:42 PM
#41
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jesus i know what octane to put in my car lol. anyhow, how can you explain my hesitation disappearing off when i switched back to 87? doing things like removing the PD i believe cause anomalous behaviour in the injectors, due to fluctuating fuel pressure.
your pd is failing if you smell gas at any time while driving or with the car off. if you pop the hood and smell gas. your pd is done. im not sure its possible to tell if the pd is about to go. all it takes is a small crack in the diaphragm to make it dieee
your pd is failing if you smell gas at any time while driving or with the car off. if you pop the hood and smell gas. your pd is done. im not sure its possible to tell if the pd is about to go. all it takes is a small crack in the diaphragm to make it dieee
10-08-04, 10:23 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by ErikTheDead
Yup - looks like pulsation dampaner started it? thank god i have some bright people in the area to help me get her back together. Looks like all the vac hoses, a coolant line, a fuel line, the injector wires, and injectors to me. We did save the engine, she's a-ok.
10-08-04, 10:30 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
IT's a "do something" vs. "do nothing" thread...
easy boys.. lets try an avoid low blows!!
BTW.. WTF is that in the previouse post on fire..?? best not be a rotary
Frank
11-04-04, 07:49 AM
#47
Respecognize!
what is summit or some other supplier number for the banjo bolt? anyone know? i am going to order one out of shear fear but i need to know the number so i dont wind up with the wrong one.
11-04-04, 10:46 AM
#49
The NA fuel rail will leak too. And you really do have to pull the upper manifold off to get at it. It might be possible otherwise, but it's easiest with the fuel rail off the car. And you'll probably have to use a vice or something to hold the fuel rail while you pound on a wrench to get the old pulsation damper off - it's a bitch to remove.
-=Russ=-
-=Russ=-
11-04-04, 03:06 PM
#50
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i dont recommend pounding persay.. what worked for me.. took a crescent wrench and an open ended wrench, braced the crescent on the rail, then as smoothly as possibly, unhinge that lil bitch.
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