Engine builder in germany
#4
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,614
Likes: 31
From: Freeland, MI
Originally Posted by lastphaseofthis
i'd be willing to come visit germany and serve your needs. are you military?
J/k, thanks for your service, get home safe, and enjoy your holidays
#5
I would likely rent space/equipment to do my needs, and ship bring the small expensive stuff i need.
honestly everything i need to rebuild and port an engine can fit in carry on besides a lift or engine hoist.
i propose this as a service for letting me couch surf in another country. you're talking 30 hours of work or less. seems like a fair trade to me.
#7
you ask'ed about bridge porting so i'm going to steer you straight
bridge porting is a compromise for racing sanctions that do not allow Peripheral ports.. and maybe for those who can't afford to build a PP engine.
you can read alot here about the shapes of the ports and save me beating a dead horse..
Porting
if you notice driveability is out the window on anything above a street/extended port.
with porting you increase the amount of time the intake and exhaust are open at the same time. this is called overlap and it ruins divisibility but can dramatically increase top end flow.
ultimately you can't cruise on a bridge port/periport.. you have to be accelerating, there is no steady state cruise down the high way... cruise control won't work.
also you should know none of this is going to be done on the stock ecu, what kinda build budge are you planning?
from your first post i was under the impression that you wanted to pull the motor, clean up the ports go a little bigger and slap it backin on the stock ecu and enjoy, while you would benefit from an ecu upgrade with a streetport you can get away with stock stuff on an n/a car.
this is all assuming this is for an N/a car?
i bring this back to the thread instead of pms for transparency... if anyone sees mis information in my post, please call me out.
it's not what we think we know, it's what we know for certain that will get us into trouble, NOTHING is certain.
bridge porting is a compromise for racing sanctions that do not allow Peripheral ports.. and maybe for those who can't afford to build a PP engine.
you can read alot here about the shapes of the ports and save me beating a dead horse..
Porting
if you notice driveability is out the window on anything above a street/extended port.
with porting you increase the amount of time the intake and exhaust are open at the same time. this is called overlap and it ruins divisibility but can dramatically increase top end flow.
ultimately you can't cruise on a bridge port/periport.. you have to be accelerating, there is no steady state cruise down the high way... cruise control won't work.
also you should know none of this is going to be done on the stock ecu, what kinda build budge are you planning?
from your first post i was under the impression that you wanted to pull the motor, clean up the ports go a little bigger and slap it backin on the stock ecu and enjoy, while you would benefit from an ecu upgrade with a streetport you can get away with stock stuff on an n/a car.
this is all assuming this is for an N/a car?
i bring this back to the thread instead of pms for transparency... if anyone sees mis information in my post, please call me out.
it's not what we think we know, it's what we know for certain that will get us into trouble, NOTHING is certain.
Last edited by lastphaseofthis; 12-27-15 at 08:25 AM.
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#8
I'm new to this rotary world so I'm just going off of bridge porting from YouTube videos, I know I want it but if a long term rotary guy tells me I shouldn't do it I'll listen. I'm looking for reliability and power .. More towards reliability since I'll be moving to Italy soon.. I was looking into doing a rtek ecu and 740cc primary/secondary ..
It is a turbo II s5 with stock turbo with a front mount and racing beat exhaust.
I'm looking to make 300rwhp + or - 20hp
It is a turbo II s5 with stock turbo with a front mount and racing beat exhaust.
I'm looking to make 300rwhp + or - 20hp
#9
I would rather rebuild and port my existing engine since I'm moving in 6 months I don't believe the military will count a engine as household goods and move it for free for me
#10
is the compression low? does it still run at all? if you're engine is still running you're in luck..
if it doesn't then it needs to be torn down and inspected, but a turbo engine is usually blown because someone modded the intake or exhuast or both and ran it lean on the stock ecu. when they blow from running lean they break apex seals which in turn ruin rotors, and housings.
to get ~330 with a turbo is very easy. I in fact have ran the rtek 2.1 with 750ccx4 for many years.
how to go about 330, and what kinda 330 it is depends on your budget.
one option is a hybrid turbo made of the stock unit.. this is a cheaper option but will be laggy
another option is to buy a new exhaust manifold and turbo perfectly matched to the engine and power goals and enjoy lagless operation if you went with a EFR7670.. and room to grow on your power goals as well. the 7670 is about a $1800 dollar turbo.
the SXE turbos are much cheaper and would be a good middle of the road between a stock/hybrid and the EFR..
i have to ask at this point where does you budget fall.
$2,000 (in parts_ )will get your engine built assuming it's no compression with broken apex seals...new housings used rotors.
rtek is around 450 the injectors will be around 250, you'll need a pump too 120..
the next challenge is putting on either the borgwarner SXE ($) or EFR($$$) will result in having to fabricate intake and exhaust setups..
the laggy stock hybrid mostly bolts on. you can get away with using silicone adapters.
if it doesn't then it needs to be torn down and inspected, but a turbo engine is usually blown because someone modded the intake or exhuast or both and ran it lean on the stock ecu. when they blow from running lean they break apex seals which in turn ruin rotors, and housings.
to get ~330 with a turbo is very easy. I in fact have ran the rtek 2.1 with 750ccx4 for many years.
how to go about 330, and what kinda 330 it is depends on your budget.
one option is a hybrid turbo made of the stock unit.. this is a cheaper option but will be laggy
another option is to buy a new exhaust manifold and turbo perfectly matched to the engine and power goals and enjoy lagless operation if you went with a EFR7670.. and room to grow on your power goals as well. the 7670 is about a $1800 dollar turbo.
the SXE turbos are much cheaper and would be a good middle of the road between a stock/hybrid and the EFR..
i have to ask at this point where does you budget fall.
$2,000 (in parts_ )will get your engine built assuming it's no compression with broken apex seals...new housings used rotors.
rtek is around 450 the injectors will be around 250, you'll need a pump too 120..
the next challenge is putting on either the borgwarner SXE ($) or EFR($$$) will result in having to fabricate intake and exhaust setups..
the laggy stock hybrid mostly bolts on. you can get away with using silicone adapters.
Last edited by lastphaseofthis; 12-27-15 at 12:37 PM.
#11
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,614
Likes: 31
From: Freeland, MI
Originally Posted by lastphaseofthis
i'd ask if he's in the military because i would get an immediate sense of trust from one of our service members. over say, some guy in germany....
I would likely rent space/equipment to do my needs, and ship bring the small expensive stuff i need.
honestly everything i need to rebuild and port an engine can fit in carry on besides a lift or engine hoist.
i propose this as a service for letting me couch surf in another country. you're talking 30 hours of work or less. seems like a fair trade to me.
I would likely rent space/equipment to do my needs, and ship bring the small expensive stuff i need.
honestly everything i need to rebuild and port an engine can fit in carry on besides a lift or engine hoist.
i propose this as a service for letting me couch surf in another country. you're talking 30 hours of work or less. seems like a fair trade to me.
#12
#13
I was looking into the bnr stage 2 turbo with the 740cc's .. Engine is still good and runs but I have no idea what the compression is ...I will be buying a compression tester soon. But again I'm mainly doing this to have a good fresh engine since I will be having to drive all the way to Italy from Germany in June..
If compression is good I guess I will keep in contact with you and we can do the build in Italy this summer..
If compression is good I guess I will keep in contact with you and we can do the build in Italy this summer..
#14
if it runs good, no problems starting or flooding it's probably ok.., i wouldn't listen to a piston compression gauge, i've never had good luck, A real deal rotary gauge could tell you a good idea.
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