Engine Bay Painting / Engine Rebuild
#1
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From: Mt. Pleasant, MI
Engine Bay Painting / Engine Rebuild
Hello,
I have finally prepped and primered my engine bay prior to my TII swap going in. It was a lot of work, but it is looking pretty good so far. I have put two coats of an epoxy primer on it due to having bare metal in some areas.
This is my first attempt ever to paint something. Since it was 57 F here in Michigan today I thought this would be the perfect day to shoot it.
I also got my engine rebuild and streeport back from BDC. Damn, that is one fine looking motor B. I had B install the RB main pulley and the RB lightended steel flywheel. I also had him install the ACT Street/strip clutcth. The rebuild was done using a RA rebuld kit. I also had him install a RB oil baffle and RB high pressure oil regulator.
Thanx
Michael
I have finally prepped and primered my engine bay prior to my TII swap going in. It was a lot of work, but it is looking pretty good so far. I have put two coats of an epoxy primer on it due to having bare metal in some areas.
This is my first attempt ever to paint something. Since it was 57 F here in Michigan today I thought this would be the perfect day to shoot it.
I also got my engine rebuild and streeport back from BDC. Damn, that is one fine looking motor B. I had B install the RB main pulley and the RB lightended steel flywheel. I also had him install the ACT Street/strip clutcth. The rebuild was done using a RA rebuld kit. I also had him install a RB oil baffle and RB high pressure oil regulator.
Thanx
Michael
Last edited by devdog1one; 12-31-04 at 06:38 PM. Reason: grammar
#2
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From: Mt. Pleasant, MI
Primered
Hello again,
Here is the engine bay after two coats of primer.
I was wondering if most people paint the entire engine the same color as the body, or do they maitain the two tone (body color and black motor mount area/windshield wiper are in black( in the engiine bay.
Thanx
Michael
Here is the engine bay after two coats of primer.
I was wondering if most people paint the entire engine the same color as the body, or do they maitain the two tone (body color and black motor mount area/windshield wiper are in black( in the engiine bay.
Thanx
Michael
#4
Awesome, I'm doing something similar too. Painting the engine bay and new rebuild to go along with it.
Just curious, why are you painting the subframe, steering rack, brake booster too??
Just curious, why are you painting the subframe, steering rack, brake booster too??
Last edited by Dan H; 12-31-04 at 06:45 PM.
#5
i painted my irons black and bead blasted the rotor housings, looked good, i hate monotone engines.... but it really isn't necessary, you can barely see a T2 block under the turbo and intake systems..
#6
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From: Mt. Pleasant, MI
Two tone
What I was refering to was the area next to the sway bars where the motor mounts are attached to. In a stock engine bay this area is black, as well as the area at the bottom of the windshield where the wiper arms attach to. At least on my 87 base model these areas are black.
Thanx
Michael
Thanx
Michael
Last edited by devdog1one; 12-31-04 at 06:52 PM. Reason: grammar
#7
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From: Mt. Pleasant, MI
Steering Rack - Brake Booster - Subframe
I primered them as well due to they needed it. I am debating about what color to paint these items. Right now I am leaning towards black (stock look).
Thnax
michael
Thnax
michael
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#9
keep the K-frame(the suspension cradle you were referring to) gloss black, it will get dirty and it is easier to clean and looks better black since it is near the exhaust any other color might discolor from the heat or possible oil leaks.
#10
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From: Mt. Pleasant, MI
K Cradle and Brake Booster
I have painted them black. So far so good.
Thanx for the input.
Happy New Year!!!
Michael
Thanx for the input.
Happy New Year!!!
Michael
Last edited by devdog1one; 01-01-05 at 03:20 PM. Reason: spellin
#12
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From: Mt. Pleasant, MI
Turbo
I have a brand new, still in the box 1989 stock turbo for now. I sent it to BNR for the wastegate porting and have had the turbo manifold, turbo hotside, and the RB downpipe heat coated gloss black by AMR Coatings. May upgrade in a year or two, but not sure.
I will be runnig the Rtek 1.7 chip and will have new Greddy 550 primaries and 720 secondaries. With a boost controller I should be fine.
This thing has become very expensive due to my wanting everything new.
Thanx for the compliments on the painting
Michael
I will be runnig the Rtek 1.7 chip and will have new Greddy 550 primaries and 720 secondaries. With a boost controller I should be fine.
This thing has become very expensive due to my wanting everything new.
Thanx for the compliments on the painting
Michael
Last edited by devdog1one; 01-01-05 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Information
#16
should have pulled the grommits instead of painting them. Looks very I am at home working in my garage non professional job because of that. Maybe you can pop them out and clean them off with some MEK or thinner.
#18
yeah seriously. luv the blue metallic.
did u add any clear coats with that? i ask b/c it looks too glossy.
i doubt u went cheap but was wondering if u used simple urethane rattle cans for the coatings?
or did u pay 500 for 4 quarts?
(i hope im saying this right or else im just looking like an idiot)
did u add any clear coats with that? i ask b/c it looks too glossy.
i doubt u went cheap but was wondering if u used simple urethane rattle cans for the coatings?
or did u pay 500 for 4 quarts?
(i hope im saying this right or else im just looking like an idiot)
#19
hey karack. my friend suggested i get me a bead blaster over a coarse grit orbital sander.
i know the bead blaster useful for removing bad metal like rust but im not sure about paint.
i know i should put this thread somewhere else but oh wellz.... lazy. =)
i know the bead blaster useful for removing bad metal like rust but im not sure about paint.
i know i should put this thread somewhere else but oh wellz.... lazy. =)
#20
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From: Mt. Pleasant, MI
Mmmmmm
All grommets, as well as every single bolt, nut, clip, etc.... are being replaced with new items. If you look closely they are all missing, with the exception of the grommets. Amazing what people can pick out of a photo........it just amazes me.
I am at home working in my garage (pole barn) and it is a non-professional job.
There is no clearcoat involved here. Just paint, activator, and reducer. I paid $60 for a quart of custom paint, including the activator and reducer, 2 mixing sticks, two filters, and 1 mask.
All of the black paint is from a spray can (engine paint). The blue was shot of a spray gun at 40 psi.
Icemark - would you mind posting a pic of your engine bay? Just curious!!!!
Thanx for the postive feedback.
Michael
I am at home working in my garage (pole barn) and it is a non-professional job.
There is no clearcoat involved here. Just paint, activator, and reducer. I paid $60 for a quart of custom paint, including the activator and reducer, 2 mixing sticks, two filters, and 1 mask.
All of the black paint is from a spray can (engine paint). The blue was shot of a spray gun at 40 psi.
Icemark - would you mind posting a pic of your engine bay? Just curious!!!!
Thanx for the postive feedback.
Michael
#22
Originally Posted by devdog1one
Icemark - would you mind posting a pic of your engine bay? Just curious!!!!
In fact I think there is even one of my 10thAE with no engine.
I think you'll find clean, but not new or perfect by any means. And certinly not all detailed with every part shiny or color cordinated.
I seldom open the hood to show anyone anything, and keep it clean simply because it is easier to spot leaks and work on with clean motors.
And good to hear about the grommits being replaced, but it might be a bit much (in my book) to replace the screws as well.
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