Ah you've done good Amur, my ACV will be coming out soon as well...

 

yes thats what i did, you mistook what i was saying, bad job on my part.

 

Let me give it a shot.....
Basically the hi HC indicates you are running rich and unburnt fuel is coming out the tailpipe and into the sniffer. SO, do the following in order:

1) Clean your plugs with a wire brush or put a fresh set in if there are more than 15,000 miles on it.
2) Check the TPS as this affects how the car idles and affects the timing as RPM increases. If you dont know how, post a reply and myself or someone else can help walk you thru how to do it.
3) Check the timing. Since your CO is low, you can cheat a little by advancing the timing a few degrees to burn the fuel better. However, dont over do this as the CO will climb as the timing is adanced. and visa versa.
4) Change the oil if it is dirty. Many an emissions test go south because of dirty oil.
5) It is a brute to get a 2nd gen to pass emissions without the pre-cats. It barely fails, but the EPA dont care if it barely fails it must pass! When I run headers on mine, the main cat is NOT good enough to clean up the exhaust gasses so I have to put on the pre-cats before taking the emissions test. If you don't have one, borrow one. If it wont fit, borrow someone's exhaust system for a couple of days.
6) Last resort! use the alcohol as mentioned above. I have heard people using rubbing alcohol.....the point is to have as little as possible gas in the tank (a couple of gallons at the most- just enough to keep the car from shutting off) when you add the alcohol. Make sure you get the car tested at the hottest part of the day (afternoon) and that the car is FULLY warmed up. Pick a time when the waiting line is the shortest and rev the **** out of it to make sure it is hot before it goes on the sniffer. You want that cat as hot as possible. If you dont feel comfortable with the alcohol, then buy a couple of gallons of hi octane racing gas if you can find it. Again, you want the tank nearly empty as that stuff is about $5/gallon!

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

BDC passed back when his setup pushed 440 to the wheels. he had a cat and a corvette electric air pump controlled by his haltech. apparently the guy said it was "one of the cleanest rotaries he'd tested."

 

Makes sense....with that corvette electric air pump you can force a lot more air into the exhaust stream at low RPM vs the belt driven air pump.

 

Revving the **** out of it with alcohol in the tank, even in an NA, is flirting with detonation...

 

what if you richen it?

 

Then your defeating the purpose

 

no, after *hopefully* passing the test to get the alcohol out of the system. you dont want it sitting around in the lines.

 

Well here's my update:


SCREW EMISSIONS!!! I'm giving up and getting a P.O. box in a county that has no emissions requirements and registering my car under there... problem solved.

 

your sleeping neighbors have bad grammar. i've seen better from RX7 owners!

 

haha no kidding... my neighbors bitched and complained to the city now too to get a sign put up for "suggested" speeds cuz their stupid kids play in the street, even tho the city said the speed limit is 25 no matter what they want it to be, and their kids SHOULDNT be in the street

check it out after they had the sign put up, i made a sign of my own to put under it

 

make some friends at the emmissions shop..
"Shure, this cavalier IS a RX-7.. .. at least thats what this $50 says. "

 

that sign is hilarious man. how old are you, anyways? do you own a house or live with your parents? just saying i wouldnt be that crazy til i moved out.

 

19 living with my parents =)

my dad said it was up to me if i did that, and my mom was totally on my side... we hate some of the ppl in our neighborhood, they are so stupid and annoying

 

ah ok, i see. its good that they're assertive. some people hate looking "bad" to others. i say if you have a point, make it. oh yea, be ready to back it up. of course i believe you should have good reasoning no matter what, but _especially_ when youre a minority about a topic.
but yea, drive safe in those neighborhoods. a kid shouldnt suffer for a parent's or driver's negligence.

 

i totally agree... the point im making is that there are a couple neighbors here that let there kids go crazy in the streets, and they've almost ran into ME when ive had to fully stop for them a few times

 

Can someone please tell me how to check the TPS? I also need to know if their is a way to adjust air-fuel back to original settings. I tried adjusting the solenoid and the adjustment on the top left side next to the intercooler. I was trying to get the car to run leaner and bring the idle down. Now my emissions are much worse. HELP!!!!

 

This is what i was told/found when i was doing it:

"Setting TPS:
Key on-Intially set the narrow range (adjustment screw) .75-1.25 , wide (no adjustment) .25-1.25
Then hook up meter to Check Connector (Positive lead into single, Negative lead alternately into each of the other 2 pins) and adjust until value in only one combination. If both have value, or neither register any volts, adjust accordingly. I assume you could use 2 meters, but my other meter was down at the house, so I didn't experiment.
Results:
'89TII-After playing around with a performance/idle (TPS & BAC) issue thought I would post findings.
After fixing BAC, routine cleaning, resistance, voltage, and TPS adj. to .99 volts, car idled somewhat better, but experienced a detonation in second gear @ 1/2 throttle. Back to garage to replace the TPS. Installed new, even though used, TPS and set narrow to .97, wide range .65. Took the car out for a test. Idle was still high @900/1000 and not as smooth as I would like, but not lumpy, or missing. On way home in fouth, accelerated and had 2 quick detonations @ 3/4 throttle. Once home checked TPS and still the same .99 and .65. I then hooked up meter to Green Check Connector.(Pos lead in single, Neg in each side of double, alternately) and found 10+ volts in each. Meaning both lights on Mazda tester would be on. With meter attached to Check Connector, I began turning TPS adjustment screw clockwise. After about 4 turns, the meter dropped to zero. I checked the other side and it had 10 volts. Tightened everything down, went for ride, idle down to 700/800 and as smooth as could be. A couple of performance test showed no problems."

That was from a thread, and the next was from aaron cake over PM:

"Don't waste time with the test lights or checking the voltage. If this is an '86-'88, completely warm up then shut off the car and unplug the TPS. Hold the connector with the hump "up" and connect your test leads to the top and rightmost terminal. Set your ohmmeter on whatever scale you can most accurately read 1K on (normally the 2K or 5K scale) and adjust the TPS to show 1K exactly. Plug back in, go for a drive, then repeat procedure."

 

Thanks man. I will try what I can. I have a meter at my disposal but no Mazda tester. I haven't even been able to find a mechanic that will touch the car here in Milwaukee. Is their also a way to check for leaky injectors? I was told this might be causing my running rich and no warm start problems.