3vil

iTrader: (4)

to the best of my knowledge, the vacuum nipple to each oil injector helps draw the oil up and into the motor. so not having them capped will indeed cause vacuum leaks.



i'm running an N/A s4 keg and ecu with no rats nest and simplified vacuum system. if you need to you can pm me and i'll take images of what i'm running + include links to the threads i followed to do my removal. maybe i can help you with something you missed, cause it still sounds like you have air leaking in somewhere

clokker

iTrader: (2)

That's not vacuum to the oil bleeds, it's metered air.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Def needs to be addressed. I had ordered some plugs but they sent me ones that were like half the size...spaced it when putting it back together. Need to pull off the dynamic chamber and run the vac line from the air bleed to the TB anyway.

Get some snow in CO yesterday...

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Any reason the car warns up to 1/8 in temp gauge and doesn't get up to 1/4? Thermostat opening early?

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

on a N/A ECU? nice.
What injectors are you running? no piggyback?

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Getting closer. The coolant/heating issues was resolved with the use of a Mazda rad cap. Inadvertently used an aftermarket one...swapped it out, burped it, done.

Replaced the BAC and hooked up vac lines with new hose. It is not starting and stalling out right away...

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

I would like to point out it is not on 'E' lol

TougeMonster

iTrader: (1)

Yea stock NA ecu.
Rebuilt injectors with stock primaries and turbo secondaries. No piggy back right now.
Planning on a safc when I dyno

To the OP. I'm glad you put the BAC back on
I bet you still have a vac leak though.
Take some starting fluid and spray it around hoses to find the culprit
That is if you can get it to idle long enough

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

It's been idling a little longer today but I brought a propane torch with me to work...might duck out in a few and see if I can locate it.

Edit: at :35 into the video that is w/o any throttle, just the car doing it's thing.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

I let propane into the air intake and it didn't change engine speed at all. Held it around a lot of places on the engine, under, vac lines...nothing changed.

When I disconnect the BAC it dies.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

OK - Had a smoke machine hooked up and found a leak and fixed that one. Hooked it back up and no smoke coming out from anywhere else. Doesn't start and die any longer but:

Set the TPS per FSM after driving for a good 20 minutes after idling till warm. Started it back up and jumpered the initial set coupler and it had no change when adjusting the idle screw on top of the dynamic chamber so I removed the jumper and disconnected the green connector from the BAC.

Adjusted the idle down to ~500/600 rpms. Hooked BAC connector back up and it surges between 1200 (maybe 1300) to 1500 rpms. Disonnect BAC and drops back to ~500/600 rpms.

Went through this process for the third time (after driving around) and it ends up the same. Hooked up smoke machine again in case anything came loose...no smoke leaking out.

I can hold the brake, let out the clutch till ~1k and it will sit and idle in the 800 rpm range as long as I sit there. Once I start driving again and come to a stop it will hunt/surge back at the same 1200 (maybe 1300) to 1500 rpms.

At a loss - any ideas out there?

EDIT: While running with BAC connected I unhooked TPS and it died.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Based on previous experience i'd say one of three things, mind you this is from experience. Bad BAC, TPS, or blown coolant seal, those are the only times I've seen rpm surge and 95% of those were blown coolant seals.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

I guess I'm a little confused on how bad seals would be intermittent. Can they be a little bad? Seems like a pass/fail but that's what I don't understand I guess.

I know how to check/test the TPS and BAC and have spareof both that were known working from a diff car but how would I check the seals? I have read three different ways and not sure what is the best.

1. Champagne test, bubbles in a funnel = bad
2. Pull EGI fuse and crank it and if it gushes out = bad
3. Pull EGI fuse and crank it and if it lowers the level = bad

Thanks.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Wouldn't a coolant system pressure test provide a more definitive answer than any of the above?

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

I suppose if you want a 'definitive' an answer, yes

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Why would you want anything less?

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Joking - pressure test should have been my first thought.