jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

I know the in the pics that the yellow square is for the 6 port pick and the red is to that canister up front.

What should I do with the blue one that is coming of the air tube from the air filter box and the green one that runs back into what looks like lower intake manifold?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The green one feeds air to the hardline for the cat.
If you have no cat, you can just leave that alone, it'll be fine.

The blue one feeds air to the OMP spider, if you premix, you don't need it, if you don't, you do.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

OK - No cat, and premix.

I can hear the air sucking in (from inside the car with the hood off) and she'll start up, hit ~5k and then slowly drop to 0 - die's. Was hoping it was one the green one

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the blue one needs to be capped, it goes to an idle control solenoid for electrical loads.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Have you capped off the blue one?
That's a giant leak in the intake if not.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Duh, I'm and Id10t sometimes - I had it capped and removed it for some reason, obviously not a good one

Thanks...

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

thank you

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

OK - Have the line capped off and still starts and dies. Emissions removed & cat delete; retained BAC and coolant lines for it.

This is with the idle screw on top backed all the way out. With it in almost all the way it would hit 5k and die.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Looks like the heat wrap melting place:

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Any thoughts?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Do you have the initial set coupler grounded while making these adjustments?

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

It's grounded. Have it revving up to ~2k than dies.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

vacuum leak or faulty AFM

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

The AFM is good. Had a bad one on it before and have since replaced it. Time to double check for Vac leaks...

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Found a couple spots getting unmetered air and fixed it.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Well, the saga continues. Had the car idling at ~900 rpms (initial set coupler grounded) when i sprang a little coolant leak.

Quick shut it off, let it cool down and replaced the hose.

Went to start it up and it acted like it was flooded, pulled the fuse and cranked it over about 10 seconds (initial set coupler was still grounded).

Shut off ignition and the starter kept spinning, trying to start the car... didn't stop until I disconnected the battery.

Let it sit for a few minutes and could hear the starter spinning as soon as the battery was connected.

Going to check if the wipers or turn signals work w/key to off and check if the main relay is stuck open. It is a newer starter, only a few months old; hasn't had any problems until now.

Anything I should look for?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

check everywhere that the coolant soaked, likely bridging some connections.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

That makes sense...need to clean that stuff off as soon as poss any way

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

I have an unrelated question: 6 port actuators are open when the rod is fully extended or when it is in the 'short' position?

I know when it is off the car I can press down on the rod and air comes out of the bottom so it would make me think that 'short' is closed and long is open but idk.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

s5 ports extend when open
s4 ports pull in when open

reverse between the 2 series.

edit: had them backwards

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

The starter had coolant dripping from it. Replaced it out with an older (but dry) one and it works great.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

OK - Has some air in the coolant issues and got that resolved.
BAC removed - no real need for AC with a Vert and in the Seattle.
Rats nest gone, cat delete.
Premix, no OMP.
Coolant line going from back of waterpump to rear rotor.

Thermowax hooked up as well thermovalve has vac line to manifold and the check connector that goes up front to the thing that resembles the dash pot.

Was up and running today...now starts, hits ~1k and dies.
Had to hook up the air pump for the belts so I cant really hear if it is a vac leak.

Checked the air flow meter, it's good.
Unplugged TPS, no diff.
Unplugged AFM and wouldn't start at all.
Jumpered fuel check connector (yellow one), no diff.
Jumpered it at circuit open relay under dash (brown and black), do diff.
Double checked capped off nipples and remaining Vac lines.
Thought it might have been a hot start issue so let it cool down to cold and still start and die.
Injectors serviced and new o-rings, etc.
New fuel pump

Shoot, didn't cap off omp connectors on block...will that cause a vac leak or just potential for dirt?
Is there another vac line by the primary injectors that needs to go somewhere? Read something about that but I can't find it now.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Did compression test with a piston tester. Even bounces around 33/34psi and went up to 120 closed on both rotors.

jharris2188

iTrader: (1)

Went back out today and started it up. RPM's went up and hovered ~2k for a couple minutse or so and it dropped down and is trying idle around 5-600 RPM's.

Prob is it is getting hot again (ran up to 3/4) and spit coolant back into the overflow tank. So, yesterday it wouldn't idle at all - it would start and die if I didn't keep on the throttle but never went past 1/4 at idle or driving.

Edit: When it gets hot it will flood but only when it gets hot.

TougeMonster

iTrader: (1)

If i were you I'd put the emissions back on. At least reinstall the BAC
Not really sure why you're removing them in the first place.Its obviously not making it run better

Im running a half bridgy on a stock ecu, with only the EGR, air pump, and ACV deleted. Everything else is still there
starts and runs like a stock motor would. Except for the brap