Electronic gauges or mechanical ? Pros & Cons?
#2
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Electric is more expensive and more accurate. Also with electric gauges that involve liquids you dont have to worry about a line busting inside your cabin with oil/coolant/gas all over the place.
Mechanical works fine though but if you had the extra money I would go for electric.
Mechanical works fine though but if you had the extra money I would go for electric.
#3
Locust of the apocalypse
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Hands down electrical for the temperature gauges...
pressure gauges, well, I use a mechanical boost gauge, its just an air leak if it does and i've never noted one to leak unless you really screw it up..
its illegal to run fuel inside the cockpit... you can use an isolator and run a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, but by the time you get done buying the isolator, you might as well spend the extra moeny and get the electric gauge, pluss the isolator is a major PITFA..
Oil pressure... i went electric... but, if you go mechanical, use the copper lines. An oil leak on my dashboard is simply not an option to me!!
pressure gauges, well, I use a mechanical boost gauge, its just an air leak if it does and i've never noted one to leak unless you really screw it up..
its illegal to run fuel inside the cockpit... you can use an isolator and run a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, but by the time you get done buying the isolator, you might as well spend the extra moeny and get the electric gauge, pluss the isolator is a major PITFA..
Oil pressure... i went electric... but, if you go mechanical, use the copper lines. An oil leak on my dashboard is simply not an option to me!!
#4
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#5
I'm a boost creep...
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Most mechanical gauges are 3/4-sweep, while most electrical gauges are 1/4-sweep (except for some expensive ones. This is why I would never bother with electrical gauges. When you;re trying to get an accurate reading with a quick glance, resolution is everything.
Note that electrical guages are not necessarily more accurate. In fact because you're converting a mechanical action to an electrical signal and then back to mechanical again, the chances of manufacturing quality/tolerences introducing errors is greater.
The chances of a mechanical oil pressure gauge leaking inside the cabin is directly related to the quality of the hose and fittings used plus the installer's skill. Also note that mechanical temp gauges do not run coolant into the cabin. I have no idea why people keep stating they do.
Note that electrical guages are not necessarily more accurate. In fact because you're converting a mechanical action to an electrical signal and then back to mechanical again, the chances of manufacturing quality/tolerences introducing errors is greater.
The chances of a mechanical oil pressure gauge leaking inside the cabin is directly related to the quality of the hose and fittings used plus the installer's skill. Also note that mechanical temp gauges do not run coolant into the cabin. I have no idea why people keep stating they do.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 03-01-05 at 04:52 AM.
#6
Refined Valley Dude
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My experience:
Had a Sunpro mechanical temperature gauge. Well-lit, easy to read, I liked it. I didn't like installing it, however. Whatever the length of line between the probe and the gauge is all you have to work with - you can't extend it. So I had this big, ugly line going across the top of my engine to the firewall b/c the damn thing barely reached the a-pillar gauge pod. That part of it I hated - it was embarassing and looked very ghetto.
Also, driving in wintertime, it would report temps as low as 165F.
I eventually bought a Cyberdyne electronic gauge (just in time - the Sunpro died right before I swapped it out.) Now the distance from the probe to the gauge didn't matter. If the wire that came with the unit was too short, I could just use a longer wire. Also, the display is LED, so the mechanical-eletrical-mechanical issue is not a concern.
The glowing LED display takes a while to get used to when driving at night - it keeps drawing your eyes from the road. It does connect to the dimmer, but it's still pretty bright. But you do get used to it.
My interesting discovery - the Cyberdyne has yet to report temps below 176F. This includes cruising at 65mph (so the engine wasn't making much heat) on an expressway at 2am in January with outside temps at about -5F. A stark contrast to what the Sunpro used to show.
I have since concluded that the Sunpro was a piece of ****. Don't buy one.
Had a Sunpro mechanical temperature gauge. Well-lit, easy to read, I liked it. I didn't like installing it, however. Whatever the length of line between the probe and the gauge is all you have to work with - you can't extend it. So I had this big, ugly line going across the top of my engine to the firewall b/c the damn thing barely reached the a-pillar gauge pod. That part of it I hated - it was embarassing and looked very ghetto.
Also, driving in wintertime, it would report temps as low as 165F.
I eventually bought a Cyberdyne electronic gauge (just in time - the Sunpro died right before I swapped it out.) Now the distance from the probe to the gauge didn't matter. If the wire that came with the unit was too short, I could just use a longer wire. Also, the display is LED, so the mechanical-eletrical-mechanical issue is not a concern.
The glowing LED display takes a while to get used to when driving at night - it keeps drawing your eyes from the road. It does connect to the dimmer, but it's still pretty bright. But you do get used to it.
My interesting discovery - the Cyberdyne has yet to report temps below 176F. This includes cruising at 65mph (so the engine wasn't making much heat) on an expressway at 2am in January with outside temps at about -5F. A stark contrast to what the Sunpro used to show.
I have since concluded that the Sunpro was a piece of ****. Don't buy one.
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Jeff20B
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