electrical problem - brain teaser of the week
#26
Here's an update. I took out the tubo timer harness and plugged back in stock ignition. It cranked but not fast enough to start the engine. I charged it for 5 min. from my moms z3 via jumper cables. It finally caught. However oil pressure still shows zero, it's running really really hot for no reason (again I don't think I can believe the reading) and my tach is jumping around a bit still. Why in the world could this happen and what could it mean. I moved the car into the garage (was in the street) I'm meeting someone now but I'll be on it all night.
#27
Why you mullet head! humor.
Well if the starter is turning over real slow, then the fellows who said you might have a grounding problem could be right. The ground for the starter is located on the front, of the long starter bolt. Make sure that bolt and nut are tight. Also make sure the big wire on the starter is snugged up. Don't break the stud. Just snugg is fine. The slow starting won't be related to the turbo timer and the way you have those wires arranged.
Once you get 12v to that small wire on the starter, then its just a matter of having a good connection on that big wire on the starter (12v to spin it, directly from the battery), and a good ground for the starter (the big wire on the head of the starter bolt). So, maybe your not a mullet head. Could be a crummy starter and or a low battery. Did the starter turn slow prior to your current problems????
Well if the starter is turning over real slow, then the fellows who said you might have a grounding problem could be right. The ground for the starter is located on the front, of the long starter bolt. Make sure that bolt and nut are tight. Also make sure the big wire on the starter is snugged up. Don't break the stud. Just snugg is fine. The slow starting won't be related to the turbo timer and the way you have those wires arranged.
Once you get 12v to that small wire on the starter, then its just a matter of having a good connection on that big wire on the starter (12v to spin it, directly from the battery), and a good ground for the starter (the big wire on the head of the starter bolt). So, maybe your not a mullet head. Could be a crummy starter and or a low battery. Did the starter turn slow prior to your current problems????
#28
uh oh.... I think I finally spotted the problem. Just beneath the leading spark plug towards the firewall I noticed a dangling black and yellow thick wire. Errr I'm pretty sure this is a main ground of some sort....where can I bolt it in? Then again I noticed another flopping wire...it is black and has a circle on the end of it like I should put it around a bolt with a nut. It is just up current from.......the starter.
#30
Yes I did. Here's the scoop. I had my tranny completely rebuilt about 2 weeks ago. Well what do you have to do when you take apart a tranny? Obviously get rid of the stuff that is on it...like the starter. Well when they were pulling stuff apart and puttin git back together they apparently forgot about a ground that is about 8 inches above the wiring harness that goes to the starter. Then I saw that my MAIN ENGINE GROUND was just floating in the air. Everything is fixed now...except my oil pressure guage...so I'm going to look at that tomorrow.
I do have a quick question for my two greddy guages. I have 52mm elec EGT and boost. Basically what happens is for my boost guage when I start the car the needle is all the way on 2 bar and just stays there. When I finally give the car half throttle or so (build positive pressure) the needle will read accurate boost for the rest of the ride. I'd assume this is a grounding problem? I have it grounded to a nut behind the center console...should I run it through the firewall and ground it to the frame, or engine?
I do have a quick question for my two greddy guages. I have 52mm elec EGT and boost. Basically what happens is for my boost guage when I start the car the needle is all the way on 2 bar and just stays there. When I finally give the car half throttle or so (build positive pressure) the needle will read accurate boost for the rest of the ride. I'd assume this is a grounding problem? I have it grounded to a nut behind the center console...should I run it through the firewall and ground it to the frame, or engine?
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