Electrical issue?
04-05-12, 06:34 PM
#1
RE EVOLUTION
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Electrical issue?
Hi, I have a 87 S4 T2 with late 88 T2 engine, which uses high impedance injectors.
Here is what happened. I started up my car this afternoon and besides some rough idles and leaking noise everything else is fine. The car started right up and puts up good power.
I took it for a ride around the corner and came back the car died, and would start and dies right away. I opened the engine bay went through all the wires and made sure nothing was shaken off or something. When I was just about to put the intercooler back on (stock tmic), I accidentally smacked the intercooler against the back side of alternator, normally it's no big deal, not a heavy smack. But guess what, the back side of alternator sparked on contact with the intercooler, it's not a tiny spark, it's a big *** spark that if I had fuel on the surface it would ignite spark. I tried it again and it wouldn't spark.
Now I'm confused about what is up with the car again.
Here is what happened. I started up my car this afternoon and besides some rough idles and leaking noise everything else is fine. The car started right up and puts up good power.
I took it for a ride around the corner and came back the car died, and would start and dies right away. I opened the engine bay went through all the wires and made sure nothing was shaken off or something. When I was just about to put the intercooler back on (stock tmic), I accidentally smacked the intercooler against the back side of alternator, normally it's no big deal, not a heavy smack. But guess what, the back side of alternator sparked on contact with the intercooler, it's not a tiny spark, it's a big *** spark that if I had fuel on the surface it would ignite spark. I tried it again and it wouldn't spark.
Now I'm confused about what is up with the car again.
04-05-12, 07:45 PM
#4
RE EVOLUTION
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The car died before the spark happened. The car would not start before I even opened the engine bay. Right after the car died, the fuel pump resistor starts to click like crazy for 10 seconds. All fuses are good, both engine bay fuse and interior fuse.
Currently the car would start, and dies right away. And I get random clicks all over the car when the key is at ON, sometimes from fuel pump resistor, sometimes from somewhere around the interior fusebox. When I turn the key to on, there are 3 places that click once, ceiling near the interior light, fusebox area, and fuel pump resistor.
The OEM cooling fan comes on when I disconnect the 15A Engine fuse or the 6.5A meter fuse in the interior fusebox when key is at ON. The interior fusebox clicks when I touch the hazard fuse as it wobbles.
Hmm, I guesss somewhere deep down inside my soul I wanted this car to explode. That's why I tried it again :p (JOKING)
Here is my spec for the car
1987 S4 TII with a complete late 88 T2 engine.
- fuel pump rewired
- resistor relocated to rear
- RB Rev II complete system
Maybe I should just go stand alone?
Currently the car would start, and dies right away. And I get random clicks all over the car when the key is at ON, sometimes from fuel pump resistor, sometimes from somewhere around the interior fusebox. When I turn the key to on, there are 3 places that click once, ceiling near the interior light, fusebox area, and fuel pump resistor.
The OEM cooling fan comes on when I disconnect the 15A Engine fuse or the 6.5A meter fuse in the interior fusebox when key is at ON. The interior fusebox clicks when I touch the hazard fuse as it wobbles.
Hmm, I guesss somewhere deep down inside my soul I wanted this car to explode. That's why I tried it again :p (JOKING)
Here is my spec for the car
1987 S4 TII with a complete late 88 T2 engine.
- fuel pump rewired
- resistor relocated to rear
- RB Rev II complete system
Maybe I should just go stand alone?
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 04-05-12 at 07:52 PM.
04-05-12, 08:45 PM
#6
Rotary Freak
Usually if you short the alternator output cable to gnd you blow the MAIN FUSE in the engine bay. Evidently this did not happen if you can still spin the starter
Trending Topics
04-05-12, 08:58 PM
#8
Rotary Freak
I'm confused if the car starts now or does not start NOW.
HUGE air leaks will keep it from starting if the starter is spinning and all else is normal. Turbo inlet duct come off etc and have cracks in them at the turbo. Go look at the turbo inlet duct flange at the turbo. No cracks allowed.
HUGE air leaks will keep it from starting if the starter is spinning and all else is normal. Turbo inlet duct come off etc and have cracks in them at the turbo. Go look at the turbo inlet duct flange at the turbo. No cracks allowed.
04-06-12, 12:59 PM
#12
RE EVOLUTION
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it doesnt stay idle even if I floor the pedal. The intercooler was mounted and tightened. I noticed the hose that goes from turbo compression housing to wastegate actuator is loose. TID is in good condition and secured with zipties.
04-06-12, 09:14 PM
#14
RE EVOLUTION
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
will look into vacumn leaks tomorrow. Also when I push the button for the front washer, the rear washer came on, and when I push the rear washer the rear washer came on again. Currently front and rear wiper is not functional, front washer is not functional either.
04-12-12, 12:16 AM
#17
Too old for this
LOL, happens to the best of us. At least you haven't spent hundreds of dollars replacing parts trying to fix it.
I would guess the spark was just built up static. I can easily get 1/2" sparks by taking my coat on and off a few times.
I would guess the spark was just built up static. I can easily get 1/2" sparks by taking my coat on and off a few times.
04-18-12, 09:59 AM
#18
RE EVOLUTION
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, I was parking the car, and forgot to put it back to neutral. When I let off the clutch the car jerked forward and died. After that the car wouldn't start. The stock boost gauge reads at 40 mmhg hitting all the way to top when the key is at ON position. I know this is not normal because it should sit at about the middle of the gauge. Does that mean the car shook something off and caused a massive vacuum leak? I've looked and reconnected all the vacuum hoses and all of them were intact. When I disconnect the MAP sensor wire the gauge goes back to 0 mmhg when key is at ON. I reconnected the MAF and the hose and it still does nothing. Not even starter fluid can start the car.
04-18-12, 12:34 PM
#20
RE EVOLUTION
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorryfor not clarifying, the engine cranks. With starting fluid the engine would start and die right away. I do have spark because as I am cranking the rpm junps up and down.
04-18-12, 06:58 PM
#21
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well in a crank no start situation, you ahve to run down the line of what you have:
First: Spark, just because you have RPM signal doesnt mean you have spark, CHECK IT
Second: Fuel, Check to see that you either have A) Fuel Pressure, and B) Fuel Volume
Thrid: Air Supply, check that everything is tight, and that the air filter is not clogged
Forth: Check all vacuum sources for leaks.
As for shorting out the TMIC on the Alt, you may have created what i like to call "Ghosts" in the machine. I had this happen to me after someone I was working with shorted out a screw driver to the positive battery terminal. turned out some of the harness on the inside fused itself together.
i know you may not have all the tools the check the things above, but its a guide to what SHOULD be done
First: Spark, just because you have RPM signal doesnt mean you have spark, CHECK IT
Second: Fuel, Check to see that you either have A) Fuel Pressure, and B) Fuel Volume
Thrid: Air Supply, check that everything is tight, and that the air filter is not clogged
Forth: Check all vacuum sources for leaks.
As for shorting out the TMIC on the Alt, you may have created what i like to call "Ghosts" in the machine. I had this happen to me after someone I was working with shorted out a screw driver to the positive battery terminal. turned out some of the harness on the inside fused itself together.
i know you may not have all the tools the check the things above, but its a guide to what SHOULD be done
04-19-12, 07:19 PM
#22
RE EVOLUTION
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well in a crank no start situation, you ahve to run down the line of what you have:
First: Spark, just because you have RPM signal doesnt mean you have spark, CHECK IT
Second: Fuel, Check to see that you either have A) Fuel Pressure, and B) Fuel Volume
Thrid: Air Supply, check that everything is tight, and that the air filter is not clogged
Forth: Check all vacuum sources for leaks.
As for shorting out the TMIC on the Alt, you may have created what i like to call "Ghosts" in the machine. I had this happen to me after someone I was working with shorted out a screw driver to the positive battery terminal. turned out some of the harness on the inside fused itself together.
i know you may not have all the tools the check the things above, but its a guide to what SHOULD be done
First: Spark, just because you have RPM signal doesnt mean you have spark, CHECK IT
Second: Fuel, Check to see that you either have A) Fuel Pressure, and B) Fuel Volume
Thrid: Air Supply, check that everything is tight, and that the air filter is not clogged
Forth: Check all vacuum sources for leaks.
As for shorting out the TMIC on the Alt, you may have created what i like to call "Ghosts" in the machine. I had this happen to me after someone I was working with shorted out a screw driver to the positive battery terminal. turned out some of the harness on the inside fused itself together.
i know you may not have all the tools the check the things above, but its a guide to what SHOULD be done
I pulled the spark plug out while connected to the wire, and crank the engine, I see the spark firing on all 4
I jumped the fuel pump from battery, the pump turns on.
I put the plug back on, crank the engine, while the pump stays jumped.
Pull the plug out. Dry plug.
I took the jumper off the pump, have a friend crank the engine while I listen to the pump with a screw driver
The pump turns off when the car is cranking. Even if I disconnect the pump from harness and jump it from battery and have it stay on. The car still won't start when I crank, and still gets dry plug.
The MAP sensor gauge hits all the way to the top at 40 x10 mmhg instead of regular 15 mmgh range when key is at ON. I can't find any vacuum hose disconnected. When I crank the car while holding WOT, the MAP gauge jumps up a bit more.
I just don't understand why the car was running perfectly a second ago, and will not start after a stall.
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 04-19-12 at 07:38 PM.
04-20-12, 01:07 PM
#23
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just finished checking on the car today
I pulled the spark plug out while connected to the wire, and crank the engine, I see the spark firing on all 4
I jumped the fuel pump from battery, the pump turns on.
I put the plug back on, crank the engine, while the pump stays jumped.
Pull the plug out. Dry plug.
I took the jumper off the pump, have a friend crank the engine while I listen to the pump with a screw driver
The pump turns off when the car is cranking. Even if I disconnect the pump from harness and jump it from battery and have it stay on. The car still won't start when I crank, and still gets dry plug.
The MAP sensor gauge hits all the way to the top at 40 x10 mmhg instead of regular 15 mmgh range when key is at ON. I can't find any vacuum hose disconnected. When I crank the car while holding WOT, the MAP gauge jumps up a bit more.
I just don't understand why the car was running perfectly a second ago, and will not start after a stall.
I pulled the spark plug out while connected to the wire, and crank the engine, I see the spark firing on all 4
I jumped the fuel pump from battery, the pump turns on.
I put the plug back on, crank the engine, while the pump stays jumped.
Pull the plug out. Dry plug.
I took the jumper off the pump, have a friend crank the engine while I listen to the pump with a screw driver
The pump turns off when the car is cranking. Even if I disconnect the pump from harness and jump it from battery and have it stay on. The car still won't start when I crank, and still gets dry plug.
The MAP sensor gauge hits all the way to the top at 40 x10 mmhg instead of regular 15 mmgh range when key is at ON. I can't find any vacuum hose disconnected. When I crank the car while holding WOT, the MAP gauge jumps up a bit more.
I just don't understand why the car was running perfectly a second ago, and will not start after a stall.
sounds like the injectors arent firing, there is no easy way for you to test unless you have a noid light set, power probe/logic probe, or you have an Oscilliscope.
you can try to see if you can hear/feel the injectors clicking but its not a very accurate test for you to do.
see if you can get someone to test that for you, im not 100% sure what triggers the injector pulse, im guessing the CAS (crank angle sensor)
04-20-12, 01:35 PM
#24
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,986
Received 2,688 Likes
on
1,903 Posts
no, the big terminal on the alt is live, which is why its got a cover, and why you're supposed to disconnect the battery when you work on the car
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post