Electrical Help
10-14-02, 05:21 PM
#26
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ok, i don't have 12v to the black wire with the yellow stripe, what should i do now, i can;t really find the cas, what does it look like, where is it exactly? thanks alot once again guys, all your help is appreciated
10-14-02, 05:58 PM
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ok nevermind, i found the cas, its round thing with two phillip screws on it, how do test it, what wire am i suposed to test, what do i do?
10-14-02, 06:06 PM
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how do i chck for 5vdc on the boost/pressure sensor, where is the bost pressure sensor, i get no voltage from the white cable in the cas connector.
10-15-02, 11:50 AM
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ok, a small update, this morning i got up and i heard a clicking noise from the front of the engine, this is without the key in or anything, just tick............tic, and it came from around the are where the eadlight would be, (dono't have headlight,s haven't put them in yet) does that help, can anyone think of what it can be? thanks.
10-15-02, 02:12 PM
#31
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heeeelp, i don't wanna have to tyake it to a mechanic that knows nothing about rotaries and endsup charging me an arm and a leg just for some little thing. please
10-15-02, 06:00 PM
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can you tell me where all the damn relays are, and what's hailers? btw, my car had a kill switch that i just pushed back with the stereo, i made sure it was off, that way i would never touch it and it is behind my radio, could a kill switch kill my spark, and maybe a short in my kill switch connections could be the problem, any other suggestions?
10-15-02, 07:55 PM
#34
First of all Hailers is one of the guys that is helping you out (check his post again). There is a rack of relays mounted at the front of car to the right of the coolant reservoir but these relays are so small it would a bit to hear them clicking. I would suggest you find the source of this clicking sound. There is only a number of things that is still powered with the key off. Check headlights (my guess is this since you don't have your lights in, your pop up lights may be waiting for the switch to actuate when it is in the down or up position but since your lights are not in.....well I don't know unless I see). Also, did you check your spark plugs too. I imagine if you try to start it so many times the plugs would get fouled up with fuel that it may not be able to fire, also I'm sure your battery power is dropping since you are cranking so much but not charging it.
10-15-02, 09:04 PM
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well ive been checking and ive been charging my battery constantly, and ive been cleaning my plugs about once a day, i have to find what the short is, i have no 12v on te wire to the cas, and i have no 12v to my lead coi, i do however have itto my treail coil, and my tach s not working, and sometimes i see a small spark around the oil filter area, but this is randomly so i can't locate where exactly. Any idea, Hailers? HEVNSNT? Amur_?
10-16-02, 05:07 PM
#37
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Some of us have day jobs and other things happening in our lives. Calm down!
Clean those plugs more frequently. Like once every 2 or 3 starts. Unless they're already totally clean.
I would suggest starting a new thread with a *detailed* description of where you are now. NOT the whole story. Simply state what the problem is (no spark) and then your findings about where you do and don't have voltage.
And, as a friend, I'd encourage to cut all pleading from your posts - people get annoyed with that really quickly. If you're bumping your thread, just type, 'bump.'
Clean those plugs more frequently. Like once every 2 or 3 starts. Unless they're already totally clean.
I would suggest starting a new thread with a *detailed* description of where you are now. NOT the whole story. Simply state what the problem is (no spark) and then your findings about where you do and don't have voltage.
And, as a friend, I'd encourage to cut all pleading from your posts - people get annoyed with that really quickly. If you're bumping your thread, just type, 'bump.'
10-16-02, 05:46 PM
#38
1. You do not have a boost sensor because your car is non turbo, at least thats what it says in your profile.
2. It seems to be a problem with the ignition (already figured that out). Your tach not working is a good indication.
Here's a question for the guys that know:
-Does the tach work off the ecu or direct from the ignition?
3. Those sparks you see, that is not a good thing. Try to locate it. You said it was intermittent. When does it happen, with key in? With headlights on? While cranking? What?
4. That clicking sound, is it still making that sound? What is the frequency? Describe it some more in detail.
2. It seems to be a problem with the ignition (already figured that out). Your tach not working is a good indication.
Here's a question for the guys that know:
-Does the tach work off the ecu or direct from the ignition?
3. Those sparks you see, that is not a good thing. Try to locate it. You said it was intermittent. When does it happen, with key in? With headlights on? While cranking? What?
4. That clicking sound, is it still making that sound? What is the frequency? Describe it some more in detail.
10-16-02, 07:11 PM
#39
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There shouldn't be any voltage to the cas. Just make sure the plug is on, then forget it.
You have a boost sensor on n/a cars and a pressure sensor on the turbo cars. Thats from the 87 factory manual. Go figure. They both look the same. Its in front of the right front strut tower. Its black. Its rectangular in shape. It has a four wire plug on the bottom. It also has one vacumm tube to the bottom. Pull the plug off the sensor. See the brown/white wire? Put your meter in the hole for the brown/white wire. Other lead of the meter on a good ground. Turn the key to the ON position. See if the meter reads approx 5volts. I'm doing this because I think your ECU has gone **** up or the ECU isn't getting power.
You say the LEAD COIL assy does not have 12v at the small white plug (black/yellow wire)? And you do have 12v on the black/yellow wire for the TRAIL coil assy? Lead coil assy near the battery and the Trail coil assy near the firewall. Now thats odd because those black/yellow wires are spliced toegether inside the harness.
The reason they asked about the tach, is because the tach is driven by the trail coil assy. I think they are asking *when trying to start the car, does the tach needle jump just a little?*
Anyway, check the brown/white wire at the boost sensor on the right strut tower. I'm just guessing, but if the 5v reference voltage is not there, then there is a issue with the power to the ECU. Reference voltage is needed for things like the tps, boost sensor, afm, etc. No got, no worky.
Oh the sparking around the oil filter. Could be the engine isn't grounded good. There is a large ground wire attached to the long starter bolt. Maybe that is sparking due to the gnd wire being loose?
You have a boost sensor on n/a cars and a pressure sensor on the turbo cars. Thats from the 87 factory manual. Go figure. They both look the same. Its in front of the right front strut tower. Its black. Its rectangular in shape. It has a four wire plug on the bottom. It also has one vacumm tube to the bottom. Pull the plug off the sensor. See the brown/white wire? Put your meter in the hole for the brown/white wire. Other lead of the meter on a good ground. Turn the key to the ON position. See if the meter reads approx 5volts. I'm doing this because I think your ECU has gone **** up or the ECU isn't getting power.
You say the LEAD COIL assy does not have 12v at the small white plug (black/yellow wire)? And you do have 12v on the black/yellow wire for the TRAIL coil assy? Lead coil assy near the battery and the Trail coil assy near the firewall. Now thats odd because those black/yellow wires are spliced toegether inside the harness.
The reason they asked about the tach, is because the tach is driven by the trail coil assy. I think they are asking *when trying to start the car, does the tach needle jump just a little?*
Anyway, check the brown/white wire at the boost sensor on the right strut tower. I'm just guessing, but if the 5v reference voltage is not there, then there is a issue with the power to the ECU. Reference voltage is needed for things like the tps, boost sensor, afm, etc. No got, no worky.
Oh the sparking around the oil filter. Could be the engine isn't grounded good. There is a large ground wire attached to the long starter bolt. Maybe that is sparking due to the gnd wire being loose?
10-16-02, 09:13 PM
#40
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Speaking of ground wires, here's a good chance to throw some in, if you haven't already...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=ground
And I'd like to amend some of what I posted there:
- 4 gauge stereo power wire is also an excellent choice. Whichever you choose, make sure you get a bunch of connectors, too. 2 connectors for each ground wire you plan to install.
- hypntyz7 has the following to say about enhancing your charging sys (this is referring to my uncertainty about running a wire from the alt to the batt):
His results are with a brand spanking new alternator. I've recently done this same re-wire with my old (reman) alt and while my results aren't as impressive, I'm definitely better off for having done this. 
Hope this is of some use to you.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=ground
And I'd like to amend some of what I posted there:
- 4 gauge stereo power wire is also an excellent choice. Whichever you choose, make sure you get a bunch of connectors, too. 2 connectors for each ground wire you plan to install.
- hypntyz7 has the following to say about enhancing your charging sys (this is referring to my uncertainty about running a wire from the alt to the batt):
I ran new wire from:
-my battery ground to the chassis using a bolt, a large washer, and ground down to the sheetmetal.
-my batter + to the starter terminal, clean the starter connection when doing so
-my alternator + post to the starter + terminal
-the fusebox main power supply (underhood 80A fuse) to the starter + terminal
-the starter frame(engine) to the chassis, cleaning and grinding both surfaces down to bare metal.
Then I ditched all teh stock wiring left over. You have now rewired your entire main charging circuit. Simple isnt it?
IF youre keeping stock battery location, do the above with new battery cables and terminals. Keep the connections clean. Replace every wire and connector(total cost less than $50) and you'll get a LOT of power in return.
So, what do I see now?
daytime cruise 15vdc on the highway, 14.5 at idle, 14+ at night with all the lights on. BIG difference. Helps a lot with starting/flooding issues on the engine too, when the starter can actually kick the engine over pretty hard, it starts on teh first rotation.
-my battery ground to the chassis using a bolt, a large washer, and ground down to the sheetmetal.
-my batter + to the starter terminal, clean the starter connection when doing so
-my alternator + post to the starter + terminal
-the fusebox main power supply (underhood 80A fuse) to the starter + terminal
-the starter frame(engine) to the chassis, cleaning and grinding both surfaces down to bare metal.
Then I ditched all teh stock wiring left over. You have now rewired your entire main charging circuit. Simple isnt it?
IF youre keeping stock battery location, do the above with new battery cables and terminals. Keep the connections clean. Replace every wire and connector(total cost less than $50) and you'll get a LOT of power in return.
So, what do I see now?
daytime cruise 15vdc on the highway, 14.5 at idle, 14+ at night with all the lights on. BIG difference. Helps a lot with starting/flooding issues on the engine too, when the starter can actually kick the engine over pretty hard, it starts on teh first rotation.
Hope this is of some use to you.
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