Electrical Help
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Electrical Help
Can anyone list all the plugs on the engine that would cause one not to spark, my car turns, my fuel is running, my vacuum lines are all cool, but no spark, can you list all the IMPORTANT plugs that should be connected?
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ok, i just searched, and believe it or nt, io found some stuff, but ussually all teir cars started, mine doesn't, and some cars had spark, i have NO spark at all, which is why i want to know which plugs would prevent spark o the leading and trailing plugs.
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I think I'm having trouble with your choice of words here.
"Which PLUGS would prevent spark"??? What plugs? You've got your coils, then your plug wires, then your spark plugs.
Are you asking about ear plugs? Nose plugs?
There are plenty of threads out there about determining why a 7 is getting little or no spark. You said you found some of them. Have you tried any of the diagnostics suggested in them?
"Which PLUGS would prevent spark"??? What plugs? You've got your coils, then your plug wires, then your spark plugs.
Are you asking about ear plugs? Nose plugs?
There are plenty of threads out there about determining why a 7 is getting little or no spark. You said you found some of them. Have you tried any of the diagnostics suggested in them?
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well, i was wondering if there any connection in the engine that, if disconnected, would kill the spark of an rx7, everything else works, my fuel, my vacuum lines are all connected perfectly, my motor turns over without a problem, new battery, new alternator. I don't know what it could be. I have no idea, maybe a fried alternator could cause this? i don't know, but anything that could cause no spak in the engine, please let me know, tell me things i could check.
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Not the alternator. Your engine uses the battery to start.
Do you have a voltmeter/multimeter to check things with? You can pick up a half-decent one just about anywhere (even Walmart) for about $20. Its' an excellent investment if you like to look after your 7 yourself.
I'll do a little searching myself and post whatever results I find shortly (gotta do some stuff first.) Stay tuned.
Do you have a voltmeter/multimeter to check things with? You can pick up a half-decent one just about anywhere (even Walmart) for about $20. Its' an excellent investment if you like to look after your 7 yourself.
I'll do a little searching myself and post whatever results I find shortly (gotta do some stuff first.) Stay tuned.
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From one thread,
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ht=spark+start
posted by HAILERS...
Note the sentence in the middle about checking a yellow wire for 12V. And also just b4 it about checking for voltage to the injectors.
From Oversteer, same thread...
Check all four plugs this way.
That's it for now. Got a pile of hits but I'm out of time. And it takes time to look through these threads. You *are* reading ALL of the posts in each thread in your search results (or at least skimming,) aren't you?
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ht=spark+start
posted by HAILERS...
About the injectors. They should be the same for the primary and the secondary....460's. The only problem would be if the new engine came with injectors and they happen to be high resistance verses low resistance injectors. Meaning if your car originaly had the low impedence injectors of approx 2ohms and then you put some injectors of high impedence in of approx 12ohms, that could be a potential problem. Or if the case was reversed on the injecotor values you could hav a problem. You seem to have an aftermarket front pulley so I can't say where the cas should be. Do you have 12v at one of the pins on each injector plug????? Do you have spark???? If no spark, do you have 12v on the black/yellow wire on the small white plug on the Lead coil assy???? If you have spark , can you smell fuel????? If you take the top sparkplugs out and spin the engine do you see a fuel Mist?????? No fuel mist, no fuel being injected. Theres been posts on this forum in the last year mentioning what the four colors on your front pulley mean. I'm not going to hunt it up though. You might make a seperate thread asking what they stand for. You'll get a response, I'm sure. That seems an important thing to establish, IF you have determined that the spark is there, the fuel is there. One other thing is that if you find that you have a fuel mist and spark , assume its flooded and disconnect your fuel pump plug, spin the engine with one plug out of each rotor housing, put the plugs back in and spray a little starter fluid in the intake snorkel. See if you get it to start for a moment. If it does then its a flood problem. I don't do paragraphs or edit. Just threw a lot of stuff up te side of the wall and maybe some will stick. Do make the post about the different colors on the intake pulley.
From Oversteer, same thread...
3. With a spare plug, connect up the wire and ground the plug on the engine. Have a friend crank the engine and make sure you are getting spark
That's it for now. Got a pile of hits but I'm out of time. And it takes time to look through these threads. You *are* reading ALL of the posts in each thread in your search results (or at least skimming,) aren't you?
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thanks alot guys, im gonna do all those method,s the way i tested non spark it i stuck a screwdriver in the spark plug wires and put it next to a ground, and before i used to test it and it used to shoot a major spark, infact, it used to shock me, now it on't even click. Ill work on it today, but a voltmeter and check, thanks again guys.
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If the fuses under the hood are ok, go to the fuses in the car. Look at the third row from the bottom, second fuse from the left as you look into the fuse box. The fuse is called ENGINE.
Oh, the one PLUG on the engine that would cause this if disconnected, is the little white one that goes to the cas. No connection would mean no spark. Not likely that it fell off. Slim to none.
Oh, the one PLUG on the engine that would cause this if disconnected, is the little white one that goes to the cas. No connection would mean no spark. Not likely that it fell off. Slim to none.
Last edited by HAILERS; 10-13-02 at 10:27 AM.
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do you think you could direct me to where te cas is? (crank angle sensor right?) if thats it then it has to be something with that, if its not a fuse or anything. Ill check, let me know
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CAS is the crank angle sensor. Left side of the engine. Towards the front. Has a flat cover on it held with two phillips screws. Has a harness with a white plug on it. Probably not the problem.
Either one of the fuses in the engine bay or most probably the fuse in the interior, near you left foot. The one labled ENGINE. Check all of them while there. Especially the third and forth row fuses.
If they are all good, go to your lead coil. Pull the small white plug off. With a digital meter see if there is 12v on the black wire with a yellow stripe. Key to on position, not start position.
Either one of the fuses in the engine bay or most probably the fuse in the interior, near you left foot. The one labled ENGINE. Check all of them while there. Especially the third and forth row fuses.
If they are all good, go to your lead coil. Pull the small white plug off. With a digital meter see if there is 12v on the black wire with a yellow stripe. Key to on position, not start position.
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all the fuses are ok, i checked, and now i have to do the volt thing, to measure. but fuses in and out are not the problem
#20
You should get a factory manual for your car if you want to avoid wasting time blindly fighting the electrical system. It is some combination of the ECU, CAS, coils, and the wiring that connects them. All of these components can fail. If you have an NA you can get cheap replacement components in the junkyard. Some may fit a T2.
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ok, still have my factory manual for my rex, believe it or not its a 17 year old factory manal, from 86, but its here, what should i do? check for what, tell me some advice, i know i can trust you guys.
"Amur: Get that multimeter, stat!"
wha do you ean by that?
"Amur: Get that multimeter, stat!"
wha do you ean by that?
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Take the little white connector apart at the LEAD coil assy, and see if there is 12v on the black/yellow wire when the key is on.
If you have checked all the fuses, and have 12v at the black/yellow wire, you need to check the continuity b/t the cas and the ECU.
If you think you might have shorted by accident some wires, or put your battery in backwards, I'd go to the boost/pressure sensor and see if you have 5vdc on the brown/white wire, with the key turned on. If no 5vdc, I'd suspect a whacked ECU. Just suspect. Don't know for sure.
If you have checked all the fuses, and have 12v at the black/yellow wire, you need to check the continuity b/t the cas and the ECU.
If you think you might have shorted by accident some wires, or put your battery in backwards, I'd go to the boost/pressure sensor and see if you have 5vdc on the brown/white wire, with the key turned on. If no 5vdc, I'd suspect a whacked ECU. Just suspect. Don't know for sure.