NCsublime

Ok, ever since about a week or two after I had my new clutch installed, I've been having problems. The people who put it in claimed that the check engine light was on when they drove it into the garage, but I highly doubt that, as it was not on when I left it. Anyway, the wire that I had attached to the alternator post and to the positive battery terminal was fried, and they seem to know nothing about it (yeah, right). The problem I've been having is that my check engine light comes on now and again intermittently for unknown reasons. At first it didn't seem to be causing any serious problems, but soon problems became evident. I'll be driving along, and the car will start running erratically. By this, I mean that it will still idle, but when I give it gas it seems to stumble or hesitate and will not allow my car to drive. When it first happened, it quickly went away, however more recent incidents have been longer lasting. I'll pull over, and have to wait a while before it will start running normally again. If I shut the engine off, it is very hard to start, and the engine will just keep turning over without starting until finally starting back up-sometimes running normally, sometimes not. The spark plugs and fuel filter have been replaced, my spark plug wires are fine, etc. It seems to smell quite rich especially when trying to start it, so my guess is that a component involved with air or charge (Mass airflow Sensor, pressure sensor, coils, etc) that is to blame. I checked resistance on the coils, and on the Leading primaries I get 1.0 and on the trailing I get 1.1-1.4 on each. I also checked the crank angle sensor and a couple other things. I can't check the trouble codes, because I disconnected the battery before checking the codes, and now I can't get it started again (although I did get it started after disconnecting the battery, but couldn't get the check engine light to come back on). Please, any help would be appreciated. Let me know if you need anymore info.

Thanks,
Derek

Icemark

If the check engine light is coming on, on a S5 then the ECU will put the engine in limp mode.

If the car is running without the check engine light coming on, then there shouldn;t be a problem, but I would look for something disconnected by the mechanic.

once you get the check engine light on again, Pull/read the code from the ECU. It will tell you what the problem is.

cendo54

iTrader: (2)

how do you pull or read the ecu code? sorry, i'm new to fc's. thanks

cendo54

iTrader: (2)

my car has the same problem. did you find out what the cause was? sure could use some help. thanks

NCsublime

Still haven't isolated the problem. I couldn't get the car started to get the check engine light to come back on, but I did come across an injector that was leaky. I pulled off the throttle body, dynamic chamber, and secondary fuel rail and injectors, and I'm going to replace the o-rings on the injectors before trying to start it again. Anyone know a good way to clean the injectors while I have them out? Also, any input on the leaky fuel injector and its possible link to my problem would be much appreciated. Lastly, does anyone have links to resistance specifications for various FC parts (for example fuel injectors, etc.)?

Thanks,
Derek

Icemark

The shop manuals will have the resistance you speak of as well as how to pull the error codes.

Links for the the shop manuals online can be found in the FAQ for FC at the top of this section.

NCsublime

Thanks for the help Icemark. I checked resistance on fuel injectors, Air flow meter, BAC, TPS, etc, and everything is fine. I'm going to order new o-rings and insulators for the secondary injectors, and reinstall them and try to get this damn thing running again. Any ideas on what to clean the fuel injectors with, or anything else I could check or clean while I've got the throttle body and dynamic chamber off?

Thanks again,
Derek