Electric Fan???
11-09-07, 06:31 PM
#4
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Figure I could post this here. The current Efan I have installed on my 7 sucks so I'm looking to replace it with a better one. I looked up the Black magic and it goes for around 200 at the Napa store, but while flipping through the Black Dragon Magazine I got today I noted they sell an Efan, but they don't say how many CFM it pulls. Would I be safe in assuming that it pulls enough CFM (2900) because it's offered in an RX7 specific magazine? Or would this be a question better suited to ask them in an Email?
11-09-07, 06:35 PM
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Global Vicinity How To below.
The Electric Fan
Please READ EVERYTHING in the link I posted and what Aaron posted BEFORE attempting a side step conversion to an electric fan.
Looks like a generic fan that most of the time pulls around 2300-2500 CFM @ ZERO static pressure. <-- REMEMBER THAT VERY LAST PART!
The Electric Fan
Please READ EVERYTHING in the link I posted and what Aaron posted BEFORE attempting a side step conversion to an electric fan.
Would I be safe in assuming that it pulls enough CFM (2900) because it's offered in an RX7 specific magazine
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11-09-07, 08:54 PM
#8
yuppers, 16", can be mouted to push or pull, 10A draw
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=11
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=11
11-09-07, 09:14 PM
#9
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summitracing.com has a good 3000CFM fan with a 10A draw for under 100 bux
Example, mine was rated at 7amps @ 2500CFM. I didn't believe it so I told my self 10amps. It actually pulls 14.5 amps running. Startup my meter is to slow to measure but I get about 15.9amps. Im sure its over 20 amps though.
11-09-07, 10:43 PM
#10
I knw wht u did last sumr
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11-10-07, 04:26 AM
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11-10-07, 05:54 AM
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^^REPOST^^
You guys needs to READ!
did you personally test the current the fan motor pulls when installed and operating?
You guys needs to READ!
[Personally, I'm a big fan of Perma-Cool!
2950 CFM, 9.8 Amp draw and
it fits together nicely with the taurus shroud.
Summit Part# PRM-19115
2950 CFM, 9.8 Amp draw and
it fits together nicely with the taurus shroud.
Summit Part# PRM-19115
11-10-07, 06:52 PM
#16
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I can't personally attest that it pulls 9.8 amps running.
Just going off the specs posted by Perma-Cool.
This must be the draw at "zero static pressure" if
they're recommending a 25-30 amp fuse.
Sorry, no pics of it in the car.
Just going off the specs posted by Perma-Cool.
This must be the draw at "zero static pressure" if
they're recommending a 25-30 amp fuse.
Sorry, no pics of it in the car.
11-10-07, 07:31 PM
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you know Where the stack fan mounts? That round thing built into the back of the and is the thermostat. It is a centrifugal fluid clutch in a way, if you read the wright up (quite a good read) it tells you all about it.
I replaced my broke stock fan with a flex a lite black magic #150, and like it quite well. You will not gain any power by using a e-fan so you know but you do gain a SLIGHT throttle response. I liked the e-fan over the stock, mainly caused it worked LOL, but also it continues to cool your engine after it is turned off if you use a thermo. switch.
but also if you have a stock battery it will prob kill it on a hot day after a decent drive, but i already have a 800cc optima yellow top so i had no worries.
I also wired my positive wire for my fan directly to the battery so i pulls of the battery and not straight from the alt. Now i am no electronics sys. guru so it may still pull of the alt directly, but when i kicks in there is no change in idle so i would assume no electrical load on the alternator???
and finally another reason why i like e-fan is it is a little easier on your engine on start up, the old clutch would engage the fan right on start up for a few sec(or at least mine did) but with an e-fan it doesn't kick in until it is needed.
11-10-07, 07:41 PM
#19
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not to be an *** but if some one read the WHOLE wright up and at least allready knew how the stock fan works there is not thermostat, or at least what you need to wire in a e-fan.
you know Where the stack fan mounts? That round thing built into the back of the and is the thermostat. It is a centrifugal fluid clutch in a way, if you read the wright up (quite a good read) it tells you all about it.
you know Where the stack fan mounts? That round thing built into the back of the and is the thermostat. It is a centrifugal fluid clutch in a way, if you read the wright up (quite a good read) it tells you all about it.
Thank you
11-10-07, 07:58 PM
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A thermostat should be pretty cheap and easy to install. But if you look into replacing it ever the black magic series has a thermo built it, it helped out quite a lot with the install, as far as easiness and looks.
11-10-07, 07:58 PM
#21
I put in a thermoswitch in the Upper hose. I'm thinking of gutting the thermostat (so it can still restrict flow but doesn't remain open) and set the thermoswitch with a thermometer to 185*
11-11-07, 04:01 AM
#23
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I can't think of any logical reason to do either of those things. They certainly won't help cooling. Leave the thermostat alone so it works the way it's supposed to, and set the fan to come on only when it's needed.
11-11-07, 08:08 AM
#24
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SOMA, that setup looks fantastic. very very clean looking. How is the clearance between the blades and the radiator?
This is NOT how a e-fan is supposed to work or be wired. Having it cool after the engine shuts off will do nothing positive for the engine. Only drains your battery.
The Battery, while the engine is running, acts as a cushin for large current loads. The alternator will still be directly effected by the fan and all electrical devices that are attached to the battery.
The reason there is no change in idle is because the alternator is already maxed out meaning fully strained, not producing enough power which also means you are below 12.8v and are now running straight off the battery. I believe there is a overload protection circuit in the alternator so that it will stop producing power if overloaded. This means no strain on the engine which equals out to no change in idle.
Do not go by the stock volt gauge. This is the main problem when switching to e-fans. The stock Alts simply can not produce enough power.
Click on the link to find out how to properly wire an electric fan.
Wiring an Electric Fan
If you gut the thermostat, it WILL remain open.
No no no no no.
See this is one of the cons about an electric fan. Because it puts a load on the alternator which directly puts load on the e-shaft, which will actually be more load then what the clutch fan will put on normally, the fan will have to cylce on and off which is only going to but cylced strain on the alternator.
You do not want to set the fan's thermoswitch very low. It will never shut off and will decrease the life of the motor and will over cool your engine with a "gutted" thermostat or no thermostat.
This is ALL COVERED in my writeup and I also think Aaron covers it as well in his. both can be found in this thread so READ!
I liked the e-fan over the stock, mainly caused it worked LOL, but also it continues to cool your engine after it is turned off if you use a thermo. switch.
I also wired my positive wire for my fan directly to the battery so i pulls of the battery and not straight from the alt. Now i am no electronics sys. guru so it may still pull of the alt directly, but when i kicks in there is no change in idle so i would assume no electrical load on the alternator???
The reason there is no change in idle is because the alternator is already maxed out meaning fully strained, not producing enough power which also means you are below 12.8v and are now running straight off the battery. I believe there is a overload protection circuit in the alternator so that it will stop producing power if overloaded. This means no strain on the engine which equals out to no change in idle.
Do not go by the stock volt gauge. This is the main problem when switching to e-fans. The stock Alts simply can not produce enough power.
Click on the link to find out how to properly wire an electric fan.
Wiring an Electric Fan
I'm thinking of gutting the thermostat (so it can still restrict flow but doesn't remain open)
set the thermoswitch with a thermometer to 185*
See this is one of the cons about an electric fan. Because it puts a load on the alternator which directly puts load on the e-shaft, which will actually be more load then what the clutch fan will put on normally, the fan will have to cylce on and off which is only going to but cylced strain on the alternator.
You do not want to set the fan's thermoswitch very low. It will never shut off and will decrease the life of the motor and will over cool your engine with a "gutted" thermostat or no thermostat.
This is ALL COVERED in my writeup and I also think Aaron covers it as well in his. both can be found in this thread so READ!
11-11-07, 08:51 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by Me
I believe there is a overload protection circuit in the alternator so that it will stop producing power if overloaded. This means no strain on the engine which equals out to no change in idle.
Last edited by RotaMan99; 11-11-07 at 09:00 AM.