skizzle84

My ebrake is super weak.

I've replaced the front main cable, the rear pads (Hawks), had the rotors turned, adjusted the handle/cable at various settings, and it BARELY locks one wheel in motion, and I have to upset the weight balance and transfer it all up front just to do so.

Also, the passenger side wheel is the only locking up. The driver side caliper doesn't seem to be grabbing much.

In my opinion, there may be 3 solutions:
1. Replace rear lines.
2. Replace driver caliper or adjust cable setting to it.
3. Install hydraulic ebrake damn it!


Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated if you have any experience with an issue like this, or think you know the solution!

Thanks again

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

what do you mean transfer the weight balance?

at least check your line to see if they're rusted or binding somehow. fix them if they are.

if that doesn't completely fix it, check the lever mechanisms the brake cable uses out in the back. if the system is anything like my old 323 had, your lever assembly may be seized and will have to be loosened, cleaned, and lubricated or just replaced. the ones on my 323 were rusted badly and I used WD-40 and a hammer, then oiled them and the ebrake has worked wonderfully ever since then (~3 years ago).

a hydraulic ebrake should be unnecessary. you may check the looser caliper, but since it's hard to lock even one wheel, just check out the system like I described. you should have decent braking power with the ebrake if it's working right.

Valkyrie

If you're trying to do a handbrake turn or something, remember that you need to be doing at least 30 miles per hour to do a 180', and you also need to turn the wheel at the same time.

If your problem is that only one of them won't lock up when you're doing at least 30 MPH (I also wouldn't suggest doing it at much faster than 40), then the problem is probably the rear lines, since if one of them is weaker than the other, it won't give even pressure to both calipers.

skizzle84

Thanks for the input so far guys!
SpeedOfLife, when I say 'transferring the weight balance,' I am talking about braking, therefor the weight is thrown onto the front end of the car and the front tires have much more grip than the rear (as long as the braking isn't too excessive which will end up with understeer).
*Specifically, what lever mechanisms are you referring to?

Valkyrie, you don't need to be going at least 30 mph to have the ebrake engaged. When I was drifting a course in my friends s13, I had engaged and locked both wheels from 10 mph up to 50 mph. He also didn't have any brake upgrades.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I'm not sure how exactly the RX-7's ebrake mechanism is assembled, but my 323 was of the same era and I figured they might be similar. The assembly I'm talking about would be mounted on the rear axles near or on the calipers with the brake cable connected to a spring loaded lever that disengages the brake when the cable has slack (supposed to be when the ebrake handle isn't pulled).

nvrdone

Finish replacing the ebrake lines and then lube them up.

Valkyrie

Maybe not with junk tires... or perhaps the S13 just happens to have a stronger E-brake. Most FCs are also a few years older than S13s, as well.

You can always try getting some "drifting" brake pads, which have more bite on the rear for e-brake turns.

OTOH, my 30 mph rule is kind of a guideline for a 180 degree turn. It's a bit different when you're just trying to drift, I suppose.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Seized caliper is probably the cause, which won't let the e-brake lever do its job(323 guy - yes it is as you describe). You'll be wasting your time unless you free up the caliper or get a rebuilt one. You should really do both calipers. Freeing up and/or adjusting the cables will only take you so far...ask me how I know. GL.