I need to remove it, the 2 of the 4 screws that hold the e-shaft pulleys to the boss have been sheered off so I just want to replace the pulley boss..


I did a search, and I found this.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

So, I shall put the clutch in when removing the bolt./

I do not have access to an impact gun so I am going to do this...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...in+pulley+Boss

I just wanna make sure this that by following this plan all will go smoothly and I will not have to take off the front cover?

Also how am I supposed to tighten the bolt when all is finished?


Stripped bolts will be the end of me....

 

P.S where can I find a new/used Pulley Boss for an NA S5?

Is there a difference between S4 and S5 boss or NA and Turbo??

 

you're referring to the hub that the main bolt goes through? you can't change that without changing the crank pulley as well, so you'll need to find a matched set. Technically you can just swap the hub, but your timing marks will be off. It has to do with the way Mazda manufactured the pulley and the hub.

Mazda only sells the pulley and hub as a set. When I bought mine from Ray Crowe of Malloy Mazda (forum vendor here), I think it was $190. But I have a turbo car and I wasn't about to take any risks.

 

There are plenty of discussions on this forum about removing broken bolts. I'd much rather spend my time removing a broken bolt with the engine still intact, rather than risk dropping that stupid torrington bearing. I DID IT ONCE, AND YOU DON'T WANT TO! I removed the e-shaft hub for some reason, replaced it and got the weirdest noise ever when the engine was running. Turns out, the bearing was eating itself. It was after about a month that I had to remove the front cover to flip the CAS drive gear (ok, I had alot of problems after rebuilding the engine.... the pieces sat for 7 months, give me a break) when I realized that the bearing was all chewed up.

If you have any access to a welder, i.e. a friend, someone you work with, anything, you can get those broken bolts out easy.

 

Agreed. Removing that damn e-shaft bolt makes me nervous. I did it recently, but apparently managed to keep the torrington bearing in place. I'd much rather get a removal tool for the broken bolts than mess with the hub.

 

The Hub that the main pulleys bolt onto.



gaahhh. I just bought new 6mm thread bolts.

So what now? Drill them out and re tap them? What would I do with a welder? Theyre broken off about 2 mm into the holes so theres no using a vice grip or anything like that.

Whats that hub made out of anyway? Thats gonna suck if its steel.


P.S Doesnt the clutch trick stated by mazdatrix allow the torrington bearing to be held in place? Thus no fall off the collar?

 

Just get another pulley/hub assembly from the junkyard...

Yes the clutch trick should work.

Also after you get the new pulley set back on and torqued down, you can check to see if the bearing stayed put by grabbing the pulley with both hands and moving it back and fourth. You should feel a little tiny bit of play. If you don't feel any play whatsoever than you need to get that front cover off and set the bearing back in place.

 

Just get a small bit and screw extractor. I had the same thing happen.

 

I'd never pull the e-shaft bolt with the engine installed in the car.

 

Do the clutch brace method. Loosen the bolt with the starter bump method (Reted). I did it a month ago-no problem.


-Jack

 

Such clashing opinions...

Im going to see if I can extract the screw with a small bit and screw extractor, theyre gonna have to be really small considering the threading is only about 6mm in diameter.

If that fails, im gonna try and drill out the bolts and retap it, however that almost never goes smoothly for me.

If all else fails im going to use the clutch + starter brace method and swap the whole pulley system considering I would still need to find a whole complete set =/.

Anyone else have any grand ideas..

I hate broken bolts.

 

I just spent an hour grinding away at the bits and i get no where. My holes started centered, then magically went off course.

I'm really leaning towards replacing the whole god damn pulley set. I've never in my life had a successful screw extraction. So unless someone local is a screw extracting professional... i give up.

 

Just replace the whole set. Get a new pulley from one of the many vendors or just go to the junkyard.

 

dont the threads go all the way through? hit them with penatrating lube and maybe take a smaller bit to spin them through the rear?

When I had to remove my hub, engine in car, I didnt do the clutch method.
I pulled out the CAS and wedged a long screwdriver to put pressure on the accessory gear. Zipped off the bolt with my impact then pulled off the hub while still putting pressure on the gear. no issues

 

picked up a hub from a friend.

Jammed the clutch in with a 2x4. Took out the bolt after a couple tries, swapped hubs, oiled up the hub and keyway. Put the key into the place where the hub goes and then the hub goes on.

Bad part. I heard a small clank while putting the bolt in but I figured it was the themostate/spring thing thats attached to the bolt. I tightened the bolt with no difficulties, tightened it by just hitting the socket with a hammer. Put all the belts and pullies back on yada yada.

Go to sleep. Next morning changed oil and then cranked the car. The car has a wierd idling noise and I immediately turn it off maybe after 2 seconds.

Now I'm stuck. The main pulleys feel like they have no float whatsoever, however I checked my friends e-shaft float and it felt the exact same way. I checked it with all the belts and pulleys on the motor and what not.



So now I dont know whats up. I thought the torrington bearing could not fall out so long as the clutch was pressed in. The clutch was in the whole time during the operation.

I can't remember what happened when i cranked it exactly because i only left it on for 2 seconds

Any suggestions before I just bite the bullet and take off the front cover. Thats a crapload of work. Anyone have a write up on doing so?

 

You know,you may not want to hear this IDEA.
You could have Just Turned the pulley a Bit.say 90 degrees and drilled new holes and tapped it.That way you would have used the same piece On the car.
The only down fall would have been Timing Marks,But as I said At 90 degress out,just mark NEW timing Marks on the pulley that would also be 90 degrees out.DONE!

 

I was thinking about doing that. I actually was starting to drill on it. However from the looks of it my drill was NOT doing well against the hub =/. But in retrospect if I end up having to take off the front cover and what not, maybe trying your idea a little harder might have been better....

I dont know, I was struggling like hell tryna drill those broken bolts out. And replacing the hub was SO much easier. I'm just not sure if the actual bearing fell off or not...considering I used the clutch trick.

 

I removed the front cover on monday. All the bearings were in place, nothing fell off, the clutch trick works awesome. My problem was the counterweight rotated with the key out of the slot, so when i put the 19mm bolt back in, the key wasn't all the way flushed and the counterweight was just spinning on the e-shaft.

So I put the front cover on and start putting the AC and PS back on only to realize I left the distributor gear out, so I start cussing while taking the front cover off, put the distributor gear back in, and work it off until 1 AM when finally everything is back in the car.


I am currently letting the car sit to let the RTV seal, I was reading the FSM and saw that there is a thrust washer that sits between the front torrington bearing and the front counter-weight. I don't remember putting that back on the assembly...and when I cleaned up the WHOLE garage I did not see any thrust washer or what not.

My question is, what the hell does the thrust washer do, and what if i run without it?

Because im seriously sick and tired of working on my car, Ive been working on it for 4 weeks straight changing the water pump and extracting stripped bolts. If I can get by running it like this for 6 months, Thats fine with me, I'll be swapping motors by then....

 

should've pulled the motor and redone everything correctly the first time. it would've actually been faster because of the increased accessibility and because you wouldn't have to redo it again.

 

i don't have a cherry picker =/ and I don't really know how to pull a motor, so that would take me quite a while...it probably would've been easier though... =[

If I have to take it off again it would be the 3rd time...

Well anybody know what the thrust washer does and if its that important....