So after about 3 weeks of not opening the hood, I did earlier this week. I noticed the fuse for the aux port activation has been blown, and I haven't been opening my six ports in who knows how long. I replaced with a new 30amp fuse and took it for a drive. All that power I didn't know I had was back and alive. A day later I thought I'd check again, and its blown again. Replaced again, day later, blown. I'm assuming the pump is pulling a shitload of amps when its running for more than 10seconds or so (I was doing some uphill climbs at around 5500rpm accelerating-- its either that or drop out of the powerband and have to slip the clutch to get it up the hill, lol).

Any idea what might be causing it? There is pressure reief valve installed. I don't know what psi it runs though. Earlier this year I was running the epump on the same settup with a 15amp fuse, never blowing it. Now its blowing 30s. I almost bought a 40amp fuse yesturday to fix it, what do you think?


Aux Port Solenoid Harness
Outgoing: To Epump Switching Relay



E-pump Switching Relay
Incoming Switch: Aux Port Solenoid Harness
Incoming C+12v: 12v+ Battery Post
Incoming C-12V: Body Ground
Outgoing Power: E-pump 12v+



E-pump
Incoming +12v: Switching Relay
Incoming -12v: Body Ground
Outgoing Air: 3 way Gang Valve



3-Way gang Valve
Incoming: From epump
Nipple 1: Aux port
Nipple 2: Aux Port
Nipple 3: Relief Valve (always open)
Outgoing: To VDI Solenoid.



VDI Solenoid:
Incoming: From Outgoing 3 way gangvalve
Outgoing: To VDI

 

Guess this one might end up being a tuffey

 

Found the problem. The spade connector has gotten loose on the bottom of the pump due to vibrations. It would come off the terminal, and spark on a ground/body.

Easy fix.

Thanks

 

glad we could help. ^_^

 

lol, yup