InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

I adjusted the hand brake so it does not take so many clicks to hold the car in place. The previous adjustment was set at 10 or so clicks, but I reset it to about 4 or 5. Anything less than that and the rear tires have a bit of trouble turning whereas 4-5 they spin with no too much trouble.

Anyways, at 10+ clicks the rear tires would not lock up. Yes, I pushed the clutch in. So, I adjusted the brake so it takes less clicks and still no lock up. The rotors are not bad, the pads are HAWK, and there are some new tires on there. I'm pretty much cranking on it all the way up and the rear tires are still not locking up.

I was hoping to use the brake to initiate drifts in the abandoned parking lot where I go to practice every now and then. I know some of you don't condone this, but for the sake of helping me out if you have any advice besides "don't do that" i'd like to hear it.

initial D is REAL!

So your saying you tightneed your e-brake cable and it wont lock up? You might want to make sure your cable is not broken. Check if you pads or/and rotors are not overheated

NA-FC Abuser

iTrader: (4)

^^^ check the cable +1

Well i guess you could always practice clutch kicking the car sideways now. good luck with finding the problem.

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

The brake does what it's supposed to do as in keeping the car in place when I park it. I've had no trouble with the car rolling down the street or anything. The problem is that while it does hold the car in place when parked it will not lock up the tires when I'm rolling. It just lurches a bit and slows down the car instead of locking them up so I can initiate some oversteer.

SYTP

Same thing happened to me yesterday. I decided to tightening up the cable because i HAD to fully pull it up for the e-brake to work. So I finished "tightening" the e-brake up through the long nut on the side of the e-brake handle. It felt almost just right. Went for a drive and the FC rolled back when I released the brake with the car neutral and the e-brake engaged. The tension for the e-brake is still there (from the first click up yo ucan feel the tension) and it still works a tiny bit when the handle is pulled.

Valkyrie

If you're trying to do a hand-brake turn you have to be doing at least 30 miles an hour for it to work (AND have the clutch in, AND turn the wheel at the same time).

If it doesn't work at 40 MPH, you probably need new cables (they WILL wear out over time... it'll cost like 120 bucks to replace all of them, I think).

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

sounds like your cable is stretched

initial D is REAL!

I forgot if the inside of the calipers have anything to do with it too. I rebuilt a rear caliper a while ago and there were a bunch of seals inside the normal piston. Just a thought. Is the e-brake fully mechnical, or do those seals create hydrolic pressure? I totally forgot

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

Good insight guys. I'll check that stuff out this weekend.

SYTP

Let us know how it goes!