dual pulley vs gilmers
11-02-11 | 03:32 AM
#2
The best solution is probably to keep the air pump for most people XD
Dual pulleys require very closely matched belt lengths, glimmers require all new pulleys and specialized belts..
Personally, I think glimmers look awesome, but I've yet to afford one.. So I still have the air pump on my NA
Dual pulleys require very closely matched belt lengths, glimmers require all new pulleys and specialized belts..
Personally, I think glimmers look awesome, but I've yet to afford one.. So I still have the air pump on my NA
11-02-11 | 08:17 AM
#3
I have the dual pulley on an FD alt. Imo its all u need for a D.D. Without an airpump. Gilmer is a little overrated in a street car to me. Before the dual pulley my belt would slip very easily no matter how new or tight I set the belt. I have not yet heard any slipping with this setup.
11-02-11 | 10:02 AM
#4
gilmer is mainly a show piece or for limited applications where you want to be sure that the belt will not slip.
problem with gilmers are you can't just run down to the parts store and get a belt..
problem with gilmers are you can't just run down to the parts store and get a belt..
11-02-11 | 10:14 AM
#5
Theoretical Tinkerer
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From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
There is also the yoohoo belt option that just runs around the main pulley and water pump. It seems to avoid the fit issues of dual belt setup and availability issues of gilmer. I am running the air pump in smog **** run California.
11-02-11 | 10:30 AM
#6
It really comes down to a few things.
Can you afford a glimmer belt system? They are much more expensive than the dual alt pulley.
Are you using PS or AC? Glimmer belt system make those useless.
Can you afford a glimmer belt system? They are much more expensive than the dual alt pulley.
Are you using PS or AC? Glimmer belt system make those useless.
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11-02-11 | 11:34 AM
#8
11-02-11 | 11:34 AM
#9
The new, much larger pulleys and giant belt is what makes them expensive. And demand is so low, that production costs are high.
IMO, they look/sound pretty cool. If I didn't sport any accessories (PS, AC, AP) I'd fork the money over for one.
IMO, they look/sound pretty cool. If I didn't sport any accessories (PS, AC, AP) I'd fork the money over for one.
11-03-11 | 01:14 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: new zealand
gilmer kits are only like 350 nzd which is 270usd. i dont think thats bad and yea i got no emissions gear, de-powered rack and no a/c so they are definately the way im leaning.
11-03-11 | 02:51 PM
#16
Running a gilmer drive setup without a supercharger is like putting 10.5" slicks on a FB... massive overkill.
Stock accessories doesn't require that much power and the gilmer is noisy and inefficient. It's only purposes are is to transfer large amounts of power such as from the crank to a massive supercharger, or from the transmission to the rear wheel on a motorcycle, or to keep pulleys synchronized such as for a timing belt.
Stock accessories doesn't require that much power and the gilmer is noisy and inefficient. It's only purposes are is to transfer large amounts of power such as from the crank to a massive supercharger, or from the transmission to the rear wheel on a motorcycle, or to keep pulleys synchronized such as for a timing belt.
11-03-11 | 06:13 PM
#17
Running a gilmer drive setup without a supercharger is like putting 10.5" slicks on a FB... massive overkill.
Stock accessories doesn't require that much power and the gilmer is noisy and inefficient. It's only purposes are is to transfer large amounts of power such as from the crank to a massive supercharger, or from the transmission to the rear wheel on a motorcycle, or to keep pulleys synchronized such as for a timing belt.
Stock accessories doesn't require that much power and the gilmer is noisy and inefficient. It's only purposes are is to transfer large amounts of power such as from the crank to a massive supercharger, or from the transmission to the rear wheel on a motorcycle, or to keep pulleys synchronized such as for a timing belt.
11-04-11 | 07:00 AM
#18
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,834
Likes: 318
From: Indiana
Another option is the 6 rib belt conversion which allows you to keep the A/C and PS (if you have them) and cost less than $200. This is what we use on our 13b-re Vert.
11-04-11 | 07:08 AM
#19
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
I run gilmers on mine and love it. The whine sounds awesome and they look good, also there is no way that sucker is going to slip.
My set was $550NZD delivered but $120 of that was for the p/s pulley as well. I have since removed the p/s and will be flicking off the pulley if anyone is keen.
I don't think you can walk of the street and buy the belts that easily but they are easy to get online. Just have a spare in the boot and you will be fine. I have never had any issues.
My set was $550NZD delivered but $120 of that was for the p/s pulley as well. I have since removed the p/s and will be flicking off the pulley if anyone is keen.
I don't think you can walk of the street and buy the belts that easily but they are easy to get online. Just have a spare in the boot and you will be fine. I have never had any issues.
11-04-11 | 09:53 AM
#20
Theoretical Tinkerer
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From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
By "keep the A/C and P/S" you do you mean the stock v-belt pulleys bolt to your kit's main pulley? Or do you have a 6-rib pulley/belt conversion for the condenser and power steering as well?
11-04-11 | 10:05 AM
#21
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,834
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From: Indiana
Stock accessory pulleys bolt onto the main hub over the main pulley. Here is a pic http://www.banzai-racing.com/Project...y_09-15-10.jpg
I forgot to mention that we bought the kit from Atkins.
I forgot to mention that we bought the kit from Atkins.
