Ok I'm in need of a new driveshaft for my TII, and I googled and found one spot, I know fo mazdatrix already and I'm just comparing..... On this one site named wholesaleimportparts.com they are selling a turbo driveshaft for 202.94, and on mtrix.com they sellin' the driveshaft for 258.40..... Who should I trust, someone that knows a lot about mazda's or go with just whatever is the cheapest?

 

for a driveshaft, I'd go with the people who know driveshafts best.....meaning take it to a driveshaft shop and have them fit new (replaceable and greaseable) u-joints in it.

Unless of course its non exisent.......in which case, considering the vital nature of the driveshaft, I'd go with a trusted supplier rather than save 50 bucks.

 

i agree.... ihave ran into so many problems with situations like this one....... its just better to go with a name you know that a cheaper price

 

Well with the rx7s mazda made the driveshaft so the u-joints are not replaceable.... and I was just thinkin' about putting it in myself cuz I don't have a whole lot of money to have it installed by a pro.... so yeah......

 

Sorry, didn't understand you turbo-111.. at the end of your post didn't get it.... you meant to say that it'll be better to go with the cheaper driveshaft or mtrix driveshaft thats more expensive..

 

1. The ujoints can be replaced. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...int+replace%2A

2. Putting in a driveshaft is easy.

 

Ok thats good to here, no need for a new driveshaft..... Just need new U-joints...... thats awesome thanks man....

Hasan

 

There is a short writeup on u-joint replacements, with pictures, here:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/replacing-non-replaceable-u-joints-517657/

 

i said screw that and went out and bought the mazda trix one with the replacable u joints. so worth the money i dont have to worry about the drive line being off balance or not having the ujoint centered exactly. now i can just go buy some common spicer u joints and they work right every time. just my .02

 

I'm all for driveline balance, but... I'm not sure how much the mass of the u-joint might upset the driveshaft balance. Also, the replacement joint's design makes it self-centering.

The original driveshaft is balanced as an assembly with the differential's companion flange, using weighted washers. Replacing the original driveshaft might affect the balance of that assembly, even if the driveshaft itself is perfectly balanced. So, it's conceivable that you may be better (balance-wise) by replacing only the u-joints, and being careful to maintain all your flanges and weight washers in their original positions (assuming a tight fit of the new joint into the yoke).

Just a thought--I don't really know.

 

I'm thinking about just replacing the joints..... you guys are always helpful, this is saving me money so I can get my car painted and stuff..... so thany you guys very much.... Buttsjim, I don't know what all that means, but I understand enough that having the stock set-up and just replacing the u-joints is better to keep the balance just right..... so thank you......

Hasan

 

[QUOTE= Buttsjim, I don't know what all that means, but I understand enough that having the stock set-up and just replacing the u-joints is better to keep the balance just right..... so thank you......

Hasan[/QUOTE]

Keep in mind, that I don't know that for a fact--I just think it can be logically argued. On the other hand, I did replace just my u-joints, and I have no vibrations whatsoever.

Good luck.

 

If you need a replacement driveshaft, I picked one off on here for like $70 fyi.

 

actually your drive shaft is balance from the mounting flange to your slip yoke. it has nothing to do with your differential flange. the only thing about putting in the u-joints as you specify, is if the surface that you are installing the inner clips is perfectly cast to the middle. if you ever take a drive shaft to get balanced at a drive line shop they dont ask fo you to pring in the diff flange either. i know you can get it balaced at a shop for about 60 bux.. if you are worried thats always an option. but ill stick with my balanced one that has the yoke machined for removable/replaceable u-joints.

 

^
Agree. You have to trust the u-joint manufacturers' casting tolerances. Regarding the balancing of the driveshaft, when you take it to the machinist, he is balancing your DRIVESHAFT, whereas the factory balanced the ASSEMBLY. My point was that the factory offsets companion shaft imbalances with driveshaft imbalances (I THINK). Otherwise, there would be no point in the weighted washers, and keeping all the components in their original position.

Nevertheless, I would have preferred a new driveshaft, but for political reasons regarding the homefront (my wife hates my car), I went the cheaper route of replacing u-joints.

The good thing is, the original poster has options, and can decide what's best for him.

 

thats true too. but the flange on a rx7 is round i couldnt image that causing a balancing issue. with that being said, the cheaper route would be replacing the joint. honestly, its more of a personal choice. where i live i couldnt find anyone that carried the correct u joints when mine went out, so i went with a full drive shaft with u joints that are easier to find. (i live in a small town).

 

In the middle of changing out the ujoints in our Convertible right now. Its not the easiest thing I've ever attacked. The pressing part can be tricky do to the small size of the ujoint. The better you grind the factory stakes the easier the job goes.

I dorked out and ordered Turbo ones the first time so I'm about a week behind now.

Part#'s
Neapco non-turbo 1-0430
Neapco turbo 1-0431

Rockford non-turbo 430-10A
Rockford turbo 430-11

 

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
Be advised: The Neapco 1-0430 u-joint is not the correct part for a N/A FC. The NEA 1-0430 is listed as interchangeable with the Rockford 430-10, NOT the 430-10A. Rockford is the only source for n/a replacement u-joints.

The inside lockup distance (interior distance between the yokes) is 1.400" for the 430-10. The 430-10A is Mazda specific and has an interior lockup dimension of 1.515". The bearing diameter is the same so the 1-0430 will technically fit, but it is 1/8" too short.