Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

This weekend I finally replaced my driveshaft on my FC. For a few months I kept hearing a "ting" when transitioning from R to 1st; squeaking sound when in R; and from time to time I would hear a "ting" when taking off slowly. I didn’t pay it much mind since nothing bad happened for so long.

Then one day drove into work with no issues. The ride home was different. I had horrible vibrations emanating from the back end and it got worse as speed increased.

I waited for some good weather to jack the car up and do some inspecting. Low and behold I discovered that my front U-joint was defective. There was shinny metal visible not to mention the joint wasn't "square" (no sides were parallel).
I decided to use the aluminum driveshaft from Mazdatrix ($382.50) that is completely bolt-in. It looks a bit thicker BUT a heck of a lot lighter than the OEM driveshaft. The U-joints can be easily changed since there is hold back wire coiled on each face of the joint.

Replacing the driveshaft was not too bad. I drained the man trans oil to prevent any unnecessary spillage when the shaft is removed. I HIGHLY recommend that step. The worst part of the project is overcoming rust! With a little PB blaster, elbow grease, and a BFH each bolt and nut were removed. I loosened the heat shield vice removing it. The old driveshaft came right out then the AL shaft went right in.

There are no pix of the AL driveshaft nor my progress. I do have some pix to share of the bad driveshaft.

Enjoy!
George

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

One more added & obvious note: You must also remove the Y-pipe in order to remove the driveshaft. All other exhaust components can remain in place.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

man oh man how I love the 1 peice driveshaft.

I hate carrier bearings on the two peice design. Over time the rubber in them wear out and it starts to clank around. I replaced 8 of them on the 240s.