Drive shaft for 600?
11-13-08, 04:37 PM
#1
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Drive shaft for 600?
I was just told by my mechanic that i would need a new drive shaft. Apparently hes getting it shipped from Mazda because there aren't any new ones up here. Is $600 CAD a reasonable price for the full job, drive shaft plus labor?
I guess while i am on the topic, are there any hints that my drive shaft has gone bad?
pretty much when in 1st gear in traffic its bucks pretty bad at 1000 - 2500 (i try to ease up as much as i can on the gas so its smooth when i let off.) and my whole car rattles when i go on they highway (80 km/h around +) .
I guess while i am on the topic, are there any hints that my drive shaft has gone bad?
pretty much when in 1st gear in traffic its bucks pretty bad at 1000 - 2500 (i try to ease up as much as i can on the gas so its smooth when i let off.) and my whole car rattles when i go on they highway (80 km/h around +) .
11-13-08, 05:06 PM
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To check your U joints in your driveshaft, just jack up your car and wiggle the U joint both vertically and horizontally where the U joint meets the shaft. if there is any visible play, then you probably need a new U joints. Since mazda had the amazing idea of not making the U joints replaceable, you have to buy a completle driveshaft. I like mazdatrix myself, and they happen to stock aftermarket driveshafts that have replaceable U joints and they also happen to be about $100(US) cheaper than an OEM shaft. http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm Also, if you have a jack and a couple jack stands, you could easily replace your shaft yourself. Depending on what exhaust you have, I think you have to remove some of the piping, and then all you have to do is loosen the four bolts where the driveshaft hooks up to the differential, and then you can slide the diff end of the shaft down and pull the other end out of the tranny. Slide the new shaft in the tranny and then torque the diff bolts down to 40 ft lbs. After that just reinstall your exhaust piping and i believe you'd be good to go.
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11-13-08, 05:08 PM
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Okay, well i guess looking at the mazdatrix site if the drive shaft is aluminum it would be reasonable then, wouldn't it? also can i use a turbo drive shaft on a N/A, so when eventually do a t2 swap i don't have to buy another one.
That sounds pretty easy FC_DAN, would i need any special tools?
That sounds pretty easy FC_DAN, would i need any special tools?
Last edited by inbou; 11-13-08 at 05:11 PM.
11-13-08, 05:10 PM
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I just replaced my drive shaft, mazdatrix has OEM ones for 200 and aluminum ones for like 300ish! Try and do it your self, pretty easy to do and I am not even mechanically inclined at all, took me about 1.5 hours by myself. Take of your exhaust and it is like 4 screws! Good luck
11-13-08, 05:12 PM
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Okay, well i guess looking at the mazdatrix site if the drive shaft is aluminum it would be reasonable then, wouldn't it? also can i use a turbo drive shaft on a N/A, so when eventually do a t2 swap i don't have to buy another one.
That sounds pretty easy FC_DAN, would i need any special tools?
That sounds pretty easy FC_DAN, would i need any special tools?
11-13-08, 05:15 PM
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I just replaced my drive shaft, mazdatrix has OEM ones for 200 and aluminum ones for like 300ish! Try and do it your self, pretty easy to do and I am not even mechanically inclined at all, took me about 1.5 hours by myself. Take of your exhaust and it is like 4 screws! Good luck
okay this job seems really easy now sweet.
My car is bone stock with a racing beat exhaust, should i go for the aluminum drive shafts or just the aftermarkets? if it makes any difference i don't plan to add any more power till a year or 2.
11-13-08, 05:22 PM
#14
I do all my own labor, but if the OP doesn't have the knowledge to do it himself yet, he's going to be paying for labor.
11-13-08, 05:26 PM
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But the reason why i am buying a new one because my mechanic was say the he didn't trust the u-joints, but he could have just said that to make me buy a new one. Do you trust them?
and in reality probably soonest in 2 years i would do a t2 swap.
11-13-08, 05:29 PM
#17
o wow really that cheap? where could i get some?
But the reason why i am buying a new one because my mechanic was say the he didn't trust the u-joints, but he could have just said that to make me buy a new one. Do you trust them?
and in reality probably soonest in 2 years i would do a t2 swap.
But the reason why i am buying a new one because my mechanic was say the he didn't trust the u-joints, but he could have just said that to make me buy a new one. Do you trust them?
and in reality probably soonest in 2 years i would do a t2 swap.
11-13-08, 05:32 PM
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the only tools id say are an impact gun(would make the exhaust removal nice and quick, but you could also use a regular old ratchet or a wrench.) with the correct sockets and a torque wrench. be sure to spray some penetrating oil on the exhaust bolts before you remove them. If your keepin your N/A, then the aluminium shaft would give a :slight: increase in acceleration.
11-13-08, 05:38 PM
#20
dont end up like this guy: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-parts-194/need-buy-borrow-na-5-speed-driveshaft-columbus-area-799783/
11-13-08, 05:45 PM
#22
Why does the mechanic need to know rotaries? Wer'e talking about a driveshaft. I wouldnt pay any more than 65/hour unless I knew for a fact that they knew exactly what they were doing, like if they were a rotary specialist that was doing something TO THE ENGINE.
11-13-08, 06:01 PM
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yeah I trust the ujoints...how many miles were on your car before it broke? I had 110k on the clock before mine broke, and only cause occasionally i drive like an *******!
11-13-08, 08:51 PM
#25
Oh Jesus. If you feel comfortable paying some random retard to do anything to your car, feel free. $65 will get you just that. Now, instead of trolling to flame people on inconsequential estimates, try posting something relevant. The mechanic that gave the OP an estimate quoted WAYYYYY more than I just did, yet I don't see any comment on that. You might try addressing the original subject matter before acting like a douche.