Drilled, slotted or both?
#51
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Bottom line is with just about anything, you will get what you pay for. If you buy $25 rotors @ Napa and x-drilled and slotted with super-crazy drift pads on them for $30..... can anyone honestly say they will perform a function? I've been informed of a few tests of aftermarket brake kits where the stopping distances where actually LEGTHENED from stock
All I'm really saying I guess is make a few phone calls to reputable companies and start asking some right questions and make an informed decision. I can tell you what I think of my KVR setup, but what the hell is that worth?
Also of note.... www.irotor.com no longer exists.
All I'm really saying I guess is make a few phone calls to reputable companies and start asking some right questions and make an informed decision. I can tell you what I think of my KVR setup, but what the hell is that worth?
Also of note.... www.irotor.com no longer exists.
#52
Sleeper but still slow
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does anybody on this forum talk directly to the original poster? Or do we just bicker amongst ourselves? I hope you 2 know you've made really big fools of yourselves and shown levels of immaturity that have been previously unrivaled. How about we grow up and get along?
#53
Rotary Freak
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Also of note.... www.irotor.com no longer exists.
Don't you DARE, don't you EVER accuse me of spreading mis-information.
So you openly admit to buying a usless bling product to impress the great people of NH with. That's a good start.
in the way your Irotor.com things are slotted compared to any number of differenet REAL brake company products.
If you buy $25 rotors @ Napa and x-drilled and slotted with super-crazy drift pads on them for $30..... can anyone honestly say they will perform a function?
This is rediculous how you keep coming on like this for no reason at all. Im done in this thread. You can talk to your self now and pretend you know everything.
Last edited by RotaMan99; 06-02-07 at 06:29 AM.
#55
Rotary Freak
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"the process of drilling rotors and slotting rotors was done for 1 reason and 1 reason only it is to disipate the gases that build up between the pad and the rotor which occurs under extreme heat ( when braking very aggressively like on a road course) and it has absolutely nothing to do with heat disipation."
this was quoted earlier in the thread. Did I miss something? Heat has gas-like properties. Dissipating "gases" is actually dissipating heat. A drilled or slotted rotor is like a heat sink, more surface area= more cooling. One thing though is that it is very hard to resurface drilled or slotted rotors, may or may not be an issue for you...
this was quoted earlier in the thread. Did I miss something? Heat has gas-like properties. Dissipating "gases" is actually dissipating heat. A drilled or slotted rotor is like a heat sink, more surface area= more cooling. One thing though is that it is very hard to resurface drilled or slotted rotors, may or may not be an issue for you...
Slotting emerged as an alternative to gain this improved braking consistency without, or with less of, cross-drilling's disadvantages - weakening the rotor (the stress cracking a number of people have already mentioned), removing rotor material and decreasing it's effectiveness as a heat sink, and decreased surface area. It still really has more use for the track than the street, except as bling, as it wears pads even faster than cross-drilling, and does decrease rotor friction surface area, relative to the same-size rotor without slotting or drilling.
If the OP plans to track the car extensively (and I mean lapping/roadracing, not just autocrossing, as a rule), slotted probably make sense, but not otherwise - and certainly not both. In street use, besides the bling factor (which he can feel free to choose, it should just be an informed decision, realizing it is unlikely to improve braking performance), the primary effect will be fast pad wear and lots of dusting - even a relatively low dust, street/light track -performance pad like a Hawk HPS will leave the rims looking perpetually grimey. If the OP wants to track the car and use a more aggressive, higher temperature pad better suited to track use, and use the same pads and rotors on the street, slotting or crossdrilling could help heat up the brakes to their effective temp range better, or at least get them closer to it, since it is likely they would still never get hot enough to work optimally in street driving.
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