Ok Ive finally given in to what every other driftsession regular has told me.
The FC sucks as a drift car! After ridding in a mildly modded KA 240 I have determined that we cant compare unless serious work is done. Main problem.
The FC will not hang like the 240 and hachi does.
Ridding in a couple 240s I noticed thier car will rotate ALOT further than mine will. Where my car is sideways, if I keep on trying to get out eventualy the front tires hit thier lock and the rear comes around, right? With all the 240 guys. They seem like the car should be at its limit and ready to come around, but what does the driver do? countersteer alitte further. I swear the car will just hang tighter angles than the FC will. I always blew it off that there wernt any FCs in D1 except Haruguchi and toru, well theres a reason. silvia and hachis are JUST better drift cars. No doubt. I love my rotary, I have 2 and have spent tons already. BUT Im almost ready to give in and buy a 240. I know i could hang with the hachi and the 240 if we were road racing, but exhibition drift<D1> is totally diffrent. I guess you can still slide the FC well, but mechanically the FC will not hang the angles the 240 does.

How many people understand my problem? There are a lot of drift posers, so please dont put stupid responses, like "oh maybe you just suck" or blame it on my car.

MODs in my car I have regualry taken to driftsession. <the other is still in the works>
86 base
TII brakes
full exhaust
intake
street port, rebuilt, obviously no 5/6ths and emissions
coilovers. about 350lbs front and rear
Tii struts
braces
and IVe gone through 3 diffs.
4 clutchs, 1 viscous, and currently a torsen.
Torsen is the best below a kazz or cusco. Despite what people say about sliding a torsen.

 

try geting the rear steer eliminator bushings from mazdatrix. The FC suspension dictates the car to push the back end around to straighten it out, because they didn't originally design for a drift session but more likely grip. So try and drift with those new bushings, will probably help a lot.

Besides, mucking with some rear stabilizers is cheaper than starting off a whole new car.

 

try geting the rear steer eliminator bushings from mazdatrix. The FC suspension dictates the car to push the back end around to straighten it out, because they didn't originally design for a drift session but more likely grip. So try and drift with those new bushings, will probably help a lot.

Besides, mucking with some rear stabilizers is cheaper than starting off a whole new car.

 

I know nothing about drift. But the rear toe elim. is your key. It is BLOODY impossiable to swing the *** around on the car.

James

 

I'm not a drifter, so you can take this how you want. How about a stiffer sway bar in the back?

 

I agree! I have them, just need to install.

 

I would second the people that said rear toe ill. I havent put them on my car yet, but have heard it's MUCH eiser to keep the rear end out

 

what kind of coilovers are you using? Are you using a ghetto spring/agx set?

I recommend Tein HE's, they're cheap and they're the best for drifting. You can adjust the spring rates, you can change the ride height without affecting spring rates and you can also adjust the dampening. though the rear valving is a little mushy and not as great as JIC FLTA2s, they're still an economical and very friendly set for drifting. I can tell you that with having 350lb/in springs front and rear, your front is probably very mushy and not very responsive. It may feel nice, but when pushing the car, it's not so great. Your engine is front, you need to remember that it needs more support. 440 springs are probably the best bet in the front. I just hope your dampers can handle those spring rates.

You should give us some more feedback about your turn in characteristics. Is the car stable, does it feel confident when turning such?

I'd say stick with the clutch type LSD, remember, a 1 way and 1.5 way doesn't cut it completely. YOU HAVE TO HAVE a 2 WAY Clutch-Type LSD. Mechanical lsds are nice, they don't make as much sound but that's because they don't give you as quick acting lock as do clutch types offer. Without a clutch type, you're asking for trouble.

And also remember that your fc is also heavier and balanced differently than a 240sx. you might as well do some interior stripping as well and get rid of a lot what you don't need in the car.

Relocating the battery in the rear helps change the weight balance a little.

--Definitely eliminate the rear wheel steering.

Too much toe change through your suspension travel will hurt you and cause too much oversteer. that's probably what you're experiencing.

---------Seat time will help you best, you live in hawaii, there are drift events all the time!

get real good tires. ES100s in the front and anything you want in the rear. ES100s aren't too sticky like Falken Azenis, and they have a good stiff sidewall. FM901s are pretty good in the rear.

 

I think tein also makes some things to adjust the steering to make the wheels be able to turn more. what are those called? oh, is it tie rod ends?

it sounds like you're saying you need to be able to countersteer more so you can get the car more sideways and not spin, so being able to turn the wheels farther should help.

 

I think tein also makes some things to adjust the steering to make the wheels be able to turn more. what are those called? oh, is it tie rod ends?

it sounds like you're saying you need to be able to countersteer more so you can get the car more sideways and not spin, so being able to turn the wheels farther should help.

 

i have a240 rightn ot and stock for stock im able to more comfortable frift my fc it requires a littel more work but the whole ride is alot smoother and ffeels a lil more stable. In my 240 i feel like the car is all over teh place maybe its just driver prefference. but i do know that woth the rx's 50.2 front and 49.8 rear weight distribution it should be easier to drift it just feel different from what most drifters are used to. And yo uhave to have the rear end set up properly. Otherwise it just grips too much.

 

--------------------in response to bigretardhead
Yes, Tein makes Tie Rod ends, but those are only for S-Chassis cars. Tein does not make those for 7's. Maybe getting a full car alignment might be in order. Pillowball upper mounts for the 7 can increase camber and help with front traction.

--------------------in response to angelslide
an s13 chassis 240sx is more jittery than an s14 240sx.

s14s have a wider wheelbase.

 

Currently this is the idea me and a friend are pursueing, he is building up his 240sx hatchback, and im building up my 87 n/a into drift cars. i find that with the rear toe, as my car is completely bone dry stock minus a removed interior it is hard to know when the back end is out. Get some rear toe eliminator bushings and stiffer suspension (coil overs with spring rates of 10 and 12)

 

Who cares about drifting, if I wanted the *** end of my car to swing around everytime I went around a bend, Id buy a Mustang... FCs handle well, and werent designed to slide around... they were made to stick.

(I was 1/2 joking, so no pissed off hard core drifters need reply )

 

Well who let the troll in this thread?
(I was just 1/2 joking)

I don't consider myself a Drifter but I love giving it a try.

I still have the stock rear toe thing and I have had times where it will just snap around. I'd like to get them to see how it reacts.

But for someone going so hardcore that should be number 1 on the list of To-Do's

From what I understand the stock rearend will toe in to help grip during hard turns. I can't remember how much they are but Mazdatrix or Racingbeat probably sells them.

 

Rxmfn7 put it down right...now I like watching those japanese drift videos, they are lots of fun!! but in terms of actual performance a full drift is a slow way to tackle a turn even if you carry speed (usually u lose speed, friction and all that hehe). FC's absolutely WALK on loads of other cas in ITS road racing (like our 325I, we placed 4th for the year...yea an FC placed first in the NE I think for our class). road racing is what a sports car is really made for and the FC is a fantastic well balanced car...oversteer upon lift comes out smoothly with nice spring/shock combo. for road racing you want to accelerate out of turns and brake as late as possible before them. a powerful TII is very easy to drift, but I wouldnt wanna smack up a nice beefy TII hehe

 

Oh I do have the rear steer. That was one of the first things I took care of.
Im happy someone else knows about tension rods.
THAT IS THE KEY!!!
240 and 86 have tension rods, we dont.
THere fore making the car alot harder to slide.
Becuase thier cars have a tighter turning radius with them in they have a much larger margine for error when sideways. That is my problem. I do have GC plates but they are in my other car, wich still isnt ready to go.

Hee hee funny you mention that jon. My other car is a kouki TII. Im still finishing the FMIC, so I havent had a chance to take it to driftsession.

 

Maybe you just can't drive?

 

duh thanks liquid.

 

i'm going to have to agree with liquid

 

why did I bother to ask?
Sorry to all the pro racers and drifters on the forum for wasting your time.

 

liquid is just messing w/ ya he does it w/ everyone

 

i have driven both my FC and my buddys 92 240 and it is easyer to get the *** to kick around on the 240 it is very unperdicatable, i have yet to venture drifting my my fc but when it is sideways just messing around it is more perdicalbe then the 240..................... just my 2 cents

--joe

 

just wait till you start trying to keep it sideways. Getting it there is the easy part. Getting the toe elim bushings will make the fc alot more predictable but still will not compare to a 240 or hachi with tension rods.
Also your friends 240 may have the hicas which is just like our rear toe bushings.
I have found the trick Haruguchi uses, ill try it out first.

 

What trick is that?