drifting a 7
08-22-03, 12:26 PM
#27
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thanks for all the help guys ill have to go hit up the mall later on when its dark and see whats up. and also i see a lot of option videos and i see them hittin the brake/clutch/gas at the same time wussup with that? does it help launch out of corners/keeps the revs high?
08-22-03, 12:30 PM
#28
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it's called heel-toe shifting
it's a way of braking and hitting the gas, basically, yes, to keep the revs up.
It's a racing practice, and not good to try on the road if you don't know what you're doing.
It's essentially a way to keep the car in gear and ready to rock as much as possible, such that when braking into a turn, you won't have to brake, then shift, then gas...you do it all at once.
Very difficult to perfect, but once you do, it's a wonderful thing.
it's a way of braking and hitting the gas, basically, yes, to keep the revs up.
It's a racing practice, and not good to try on the road if you don't know what you're doing.
It's essentially a way to keep the car in gear and ready to rock as much as possible, such that when braking into a turn, you won't have to brake, then shift, then gas...you do it all at once.
Very difficult to perfect, but once you do, it's a wonderful thing.
08-22-03, 12:36 PM
#29
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waht do you need to drift? is that a trick question?
you dont need nuffin. my friend drifted an 86 Chevy Celebrity.
all you gota do is learn the techniques:
Shift lock
Power over
Throttle lift
feint
E-brake is cheating... should only use it if you are FWD or the above techniques dont give the desired result.
Shift lock is when you downshift, for a turn, but keep the clutch in till the initial turn-in.. as you begin to enter the turn, pop the clutch. since the engine RPM's fall off, and your still doing 40-50 or whatever... the wheels will break loose, now you are drifting. get back on the throttle to maintain the drift, countersteer as necessary. Modulate the throttle input to control the angle of the car in relation to the direction of travle... not extreme enough? feed in moer power, and correct w/ the wheel... too crazy, hit full steering lock? let off the gas slowly/smoothly. If you let off to quickly, it could shock the rear tires completely loose and send you in the a lift-throttle oversteer, and spin out.
or, what you could do, is do a quick feint where you pretend your gonna steer away from the turn, then turn all the way into the turn... the quick side-to-side will snap the rear end out, and you can modulate the angle w/ the throttle input and counter steering.
Or, you could start to go into a turn pretty hot, and then immediately jump off the throttle.. when you do this, the engine braking wants to slow the rotation of the back tires, and coupled w/ the immediate weight transfer to the front wheels, the rear end will want to step out of line. to help facilitate this, you can couple this w/ power over and/or shift lock.
you can do this in any car... i did it in my Base SE model w/ 4lugs and single pot brakes w/ 14" all seasons, stock suspension and open diff... so you dont need a $1400 coilover set or drift rims, or a $1500 diff...
you dont need nuffin. my friend drifted an 86 Chevy Celebrity.
all you gota do is learn the techniques:
Shift lock
Power over
Throttle lift
feint
E-brake is cheating... should only use it if you are FWD or the above techniques dont give the desired result.
Shift lock is when you downshift, for a turn, but keep the clutch in till the initial turn-in.. as you begin to enter the turn, pop the clutch. since the engine RPM's fall off, and your still doing 40-50 or whatever... the wheels will break loose, now you are drifting. get back on the throttle to maintain the drift, countersteer as necessary. Modulate the throttle input to control the angle of the car in relation to the direction of travle... not extreme enough? feed in moer power, and correct w/ the wheel... too crazy, hit full steering lock? let off the gas slowly/smoothly. If you let off to quickly, it could shock the rear tires completely loose and send you in the a lift-throttle oversteer, and spin out.
or, what you could do, is do a quick feint where you pretend your gonna steer away from the turn, then turn all the way into the turn... the quick side-to-side will snap the rear end out, and you can modulate the angle w/ the throttle input and counter steering.
Or, you could start to go into a turn pretty hot, and then immediately jump off the throttle.. when you do this, the engine braking wants to slow the rotation of the back tires, and coupled w/ the immediate weight transfer to the front wheels, the rear end will want to step out of line. to help facilitate this, you can couple this w/ power over and/or shift lock.
you can do this in any car... i did it in my Base SE model w/ 4lugs and single pot brakes w/ 14" all seasons, stock suspension and open diff... so you dont need a $1400 coilover set or drift rims, or a $1500 diff...
08-22-03, 12:52 PM
#30
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whew, you have some dangerous methods! 
if they work for you, though, great.
First thing you need to understand (directed towards original poster now) is that drifting is all based on weight transfer.
The less weight you have on the rears, the easier you will drift.
One of flubyux2's methods is what's known as the "Scandinavian Flick" in rallying, and it's very effective.
Basically, you are coming into a turn, let's pretend it's a left hander.
You will slightly turn the wheels right and get on the gas lightly.
Then let off the gas completely and turn to the left a moderate degree.
This needs to happen quickly, as you want to have the suspension help lift all the weight off your inside tires (the left ones).
Once in the turn/slide, you get back on the gas.
It sounds easier than it really is...
if they work for you, though, great.First thing you need to understand (directed towards original poster now) is that drifting is all based on weight transfer.
The less weight you have on the rears, the easier you will drift.
One of flubyux2's methods is what's known as the "Scandinavian Flick" in rallying, and it's very effective.
Basically, you are coming into a turn, let's pretend it's a left hander.
You will slightly turn the wheels right and get on the gas lightly.
Then let off the gas completely and turn to the left a moderate degree.
This needs to happen quickly, as you want to have the suspension help lift all the weight off your inside tires (the left ones).
Once in the turn/slide, you get back on the gas.
It sounds easier than it really is...
08-22-03, 01:12 PM
#31
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Originally posted by InitialD FC
shitty tires out back can also get you killed. like counter spinning off the street cuz your back end snapped in too fast and you spun off the road.
im not saying to run drag radials or race tires, but a good tire in the back does give more control, and are more money, but in the end... better to learn on.
shitty tires out back can also get you killed. like counter spinning off the street cuz your back end snapped in too fast and you spun off the road.
im not saying to run drag radials or race tires, but a good tire in the back does give more control, and are more money, but in the end... better to learn on.
He wanted to know what he should do to his car to make it a better drift machine, so i told him, then i hear all this **** about Hey its perfect stock, well NO its not, it handles like ****, the rear steer Sucks and the car is really not that predictable. SO hopefully with the given info you know who to trust when setting up your car, and have a good SAFE time drifting.
-Chris
p.s. Panda we shoud get together sometime and do some drifting? Let me know
08-22-03, 01:21 PM
#32
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Originally posted by JGard18
whew, you have some dangerous methods! if they work for you, though, great.
First thing you need to understand (directed towards original poster now) is that drifting is all based on weight transfer.
The less weight you have on the rears, the easier you will drift.
whew, you have some dangerous methods!
if they work for you, though, great.First thing you need to understand (directed towards original poster now) is that drifting is all based on weight transfer.
The less weight you have on the rears, the easier you will drift.
True drifting is based on weight transfer, and there are some dangerous methods posted, but yours will really not help unless making lots of power, and its actually really not that safe either. Drifting is really the art of turning before you get to a turn, thru the turn and straiting the car out after the turn. If you consider drifting as loss of controll of the car YOU SUCK and will prob crash, you need to learn to controll it. Using your clutch when going into a turn will help you break the rear wheels loose, you (left hand turn) need to go to the left side of the "road/track, whatever" And then right before the turn, turn to the right, reving up the motor or downshifting depending on what gear your in, and then turn the car back to the left to take the turn releasing the clutch and using the gas/brake in the heal toe method to manuver thru the turn, Doing this slow say at 10 15 mph learning is very safe in an open parking lot, and the better you get the faster you can go.
-Chris
08-22-03, 01:31 PM
#33
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whew, you have some dangerous methods!
Those are techniques outlined in a SuperDrift video. i mean... for the shift lock that i outlined, i like long left handers for that, i usually am rolling about 40-50. usually, i can do an intertia drift too when i come out of the turn just for the glamour.
my GF said she liked how my FC snapped back at the end of a drift... but, i dont. I know im not doing something right if it snaps back at the end. when i drift my supra... good god... its like the end of the world cuz its such a huge car. its easier since its LSD and has more torque. i think its easier to drift in my supra...
08-22-03, 02:25 PM
#36
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Funny **** guys, you cant explain to someone how to drift a car, u gotta get in it and show them. All id say is nex time the roads are covered in snow go drive down some wide open road sideways and try to control wich way you go! thats how i learned when i first got my licence, only in a rx tho they have equal weight dist. or else youd prolly kill yourself.
08-22-03, 02:26 PM
#37
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its funny how many people think they know what they are talking about and really are just rattling off their opinions.
first an FC T2 will drift fine stock, granted it wont be an 80 mph opposite lock tire melting slide, but it will slide just fine. and it is better to learn on a stock car, since all the slop in the suspenion keep the limits of the car low, so youre less likely to **** yourself up royaly by going way beyond your abilites as a driver. this would be alot eaiser to do in a modified suspension car.
shitty tires in the back of the car are fine when your learning. not shitty as in used retreads from the junkyard, but some hard all season tires will be great, especialy in conjunction with a stock car and a novice driver. the speeds that a stock car and inexperienced drifter wont be high enough to get himself into any major trouble. they will break loose easier and this is important on an uderpowered stock car. sticky tires can snap back and forth with changng throttle inputs and can lead to a way more dangerous situation. the car can violently snap back into traction unless youre pusing big power numbers that a sock T2 doesnt produce. being opposite lock at speeds that sticky tires can attain and pointing in at the inside of a corner when the car suddenly regains traction is a bad thing.
the methods listed are the basic techniques used to break traction when drifting, they are tried and true and work fine. when new to sliding, they may take a while to master but they are no means overly dangerous. no more dangerous than any form of drifting. and e-brake drifting is not cheating. it is a good method of initiating a slide and i have personaly used the e-brake in my cressida to get the tail of that long car sliding decent for a tight 90 degree turn. it works and its fine and acceptable.
while a perfect 50/50 balance is nice, it is not ideal for drifting. a slighly nose heavy car will be better for sliding. an FC has close to 50/50 but not exaclty that. its more like 49/51 or less but not exactly 50/50. and neither is a 240 or a silvia. its close to perfect balance bu not quite. the lighter tail allows for a more responsive rear end and less tail inertia. this means the rear end of the car will always follow the nose because gravity and inertia isnt trying as hard to pull it around. a truck is a truck thats wh its hard to control in a slide. its suspension is made for towing and off-road, not following lines through corners.
blasphemy512, bottom line....get in your car and go slide it. the best thing you can do to improve any fom of driving is get experience. try a few different things if you like. but just get some seat tiem and get used to how the car feels in a slide. the more you do it, the better youll get at it. from what ive read you already have a fai grasp of what yu need to do and the techniques used, go with that. be as safe as you can and try not to hurt yourself or others. youll have just as much fun learning on a stock car as you would in a full D1 prepped car.
first an FC T2 will drift fine stock, granted it wont be an 80 mph opposite lock tire melting slide, but it will slide just fine. and it is better to learn on a stock car, since all the slop in the suspenion keep the limits of the car low, so youre less likely to **** yourself up royaly by going way beyond your abilites as a driver. this would be alot eaiser to do in a modified suspension car.
shitty tires in the back of the car are fine when your learning. not shitty as in used retreads from the junkyard, but some hard all season tires will be great, especialy in conjunction with a stock car and a novice driver. the speeds that a stock car and inexperienced drifter wont be high enough to get himself into any major trouble. they will break loose easier and this is important on an uderpowered stock car. sticky tires can snap back and forth with changng throttle inputs and can lead to a way more dangerous situation. the car can violently snap back into traction unless youre pusing big power numbers that a sock T2 doesnt produce. being opposite lock at speeds that sticky tires can attain and pointing in at the inside of a corner when the car suddenly regains traction is a bad thing.
the methods listed are the basic techniques used to break traction when drifting, they are tried and true and work fine. when new to sliding, they may take a while to master but they are no means overly dangerous. no more dangerous than any form of drifting. and e-brake drifting is not cheating. it is a good method of initiating a slide and i have personaly used the e-brake in my cressida to get the tail of that long car sliding decent for a tight 90 degree turn. it works and its fine and acceptable.
while a perfect 50/50 balance is nice, it is not ideal for drifting. a slighly nose heavy car will be better for sliding. an FC has close to 50/50 but not exaclty that. its more like 49/51 or less but not exactly 50/50. and neither is a 240 or a silvia. its close to perfect balance bu not quite. the lighter tail allows for a more responsive rear end and less tail inertia. this means the rear end of the car will always follow the nose because gravity and inertia isnt trying as hard to pull it around. a truck is a truck thats wh its hard to control in a slide. its suspension is made for towing and off-road, not following lines through corners.
blasphemy512, bottom line....get in your car and go slide it. the best thing you can do to improve any fom of driving is get experience. try a few different things if you like. but just get some seat tiem and get used to how the car feels in a slide. the more you do it, the better youll get at it. from what ive read you already have a fai grasp of what yu need to do and the techniques used, go with that. be as safe as you can and try not to hurt yourself or others. youll have just as much fun learning on a stock car as you would in a full D1 prepped car.
08-22-03, 02:30 PM
#38
Speaking of drifting. Their was a guy here in DC in a Mustang who was drifting and the tires caught traction when he was sideways and he flipt it and was killed. So I guess their is always a danger in doing something with a car that it was not meant to do. so if you have a stock na don't bother trying to drift because you don't have the power to keep the wheels spinning and when they grip you will be on the roof.
08-22-03, 02:37 PM
#39
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He wanted to know what he should do to his car to make it a better drift machine, so i told him, then i hear all this **** about Hey its perfect stock, well NO its not, it handles like ****, the rear steer Sucks and the car is really not that predictable
I never said anything about using shitty tires in the rear, just not to use grippier ones in the rear FOR LEARNING.
and noone ever said a stock FC was PERFECT for drifting. just that it would drift fine in stock format.
08-22-03, 04:21 PM
#40
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All i am gonna say is that you have to be a maniac to drift good in RX7's. They are super snappy and super fast. I put way too much time and money into my car trying to make it the best drift FC. And now i dont even drive it anymore.
chris-reedtn... are you going to hyperfest this weekend? Its in charlotte, nc. I am leavin in 1 hour or so. www.hyper-fest.com they arent as fun as our dgta events, but it is a drift event that is not too far from you. ill be drifting the silver 350z.
chris-reedtn... are you going to hyperfest this weekend? Its in charlotte, nc. I am leavin in 1 hour or so. www.hyper-fest.com they arent as fun as our dgta events, but it is a drift event that is not too far from you. ill be drifting the silver 350z.
08-22-03, 06:07 PM
#41
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ok, you NEED a LSD
and you Don't need lots of HP
check it out
http://www.http://www.drifting.com/f...?s=&forumid=29
also if you are ever in AZ let me know, we play every friday and saterday night.
and you Don't need lots of HP
check it out
http://www.http://www.drifting.com/f...?s=&forumid=29
also if you are ever in AZ let me know, we play every friday and saterday night.
08-22-03, 07:12 PM
#42
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i find its much eisier to get the rear end out without the reaer steering eliminators, altho i would recomend them because they give you a more sustained feeling in the rear and its more predictable drift at highet speeds and they allow you to engade a power slide without loosing control as easily. The stico bushings allow the car to drift around a turn without accelerating and the tighter bushings make you accelerate to get the rear out. Besides wich the thing that made the biggest difference transfering weight to the rear was a front strut tower brace. Other than that i have konis springs and swaybars upgraded
08-23-03, 01:04 AM
#43
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Originally posted by InitialD FC
chris-reedtn... are you going to hyperfest this weekend? Its in charlotte, nc. I am leavin in 1 hour or so. www.hyper-fest.com they arent as fun as our dgta events, but it is a drift event that is not too far from you. ill be drifting the silver 350z.
chris-reedtn... are you going to hyperfest this weekend? Its in charlotte, nc. I am leavin in 1 hour or so. www.hyper-fest.com they arent as fun as our dgta events, but it is a drift event that is not too far from you. ill be drifting the silver 350z.
-Chris
08-27-03, 01:53 AM
#44
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hehe I drift with open diff. on my 89 GTU. Stock set up is good to learn for sure. On a stock car once you have turned a little a light tap on the brake should get the car set up. I do recommend some pratice in the wet because every thing happens a lot faser in the dry. My car has a stock 180k mi. NA motor I pretty much just come in as fast as I can and just floor it out. You won't get much wheel spin in a FC because it grips a lot compare to a 240SX or Corrola, but you can still learn a lot of drift control and techniques. I just pretty much focus on getting higher entrance speed and holding the most angle at this point of my practice. In a car that is under powered and has limited torque that is all I can do. My car has stiffer springs and the rate is biased to the back a little. 350 in front and 275 in the back. A T II is ofcourse better than NA but not much. Tires don't need to be sticky on the front too much, a good balance is important. I think consistancy is more important than how stick it is in tires for drifting. I tend to put on small diameter tires for more wheel torque and that helps me a lot. Oh I swear on the stock toe bushings.
08-27-03, 02:01 AM
#46
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Originally posted by Bukwild
Speaking of drifting. Their was a guy here in DC in a Mustang who was drifting and the tires caught traction when he was sideways and he flipt it and was killed. So I guess their is always a danger in doing something with a car that it was not meant to do. so if you have a stock na don't bother trying to drift because you don't have the power to keep the wheels spinning and when they grip you will be on the roof.
Speaking of drifting. Their was a guy here in DC in a Mustang who was drifting and the tires caught traction when he was sideways and he flipt it and was killed. So I guess their is always a danger in doing something with a car that it was not meant to do. so if you have a stock na don't bother trying to drift because you don't have the power to keep the wheels spinning and when they grip you will be on the roof.
08-27-03, 09:26 AM
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if they're stiffer up front than in the rear (proportionately according to weight), then you'll understeer. If the rear is proportionately stiffer than the front, then you'll tend to oversteer.
Tire pressure also play a BIG role in controlling over/under-steer. More pressure in front, understeer, more pressure in rear, oversteer.
Tire pressure also play a BIG role in controlling over/under-steer. More pressure in front, understeer, more pressure in rear, oversteer.