Drift FC.... NA??
#1
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Drift FC.... NA??
Hey,
I want to learn how to drift well... and I need suggestions about car setup.
First, I heard a rumour that NA FC's are more popular with drifters in Japan than the TII's (did the FC even come N/A in japan?? )
Is it possible to drift an NA? easily?
What sorta vehicle setup things should I do to make my car (89 GX) into a stable, controllable drift car?
I want to learn how to drift well... and I need suggestions about car setup.
First, I heard a rumour that NA FC's are more popular with drifters in Japan than the TII's (did the FC even come N/A in japan?? )
Is it possible to drift an NA? easily?
What sorta vehicle setup things should I do to make my car (89 GX) into a stable, controllable drift car?
#2
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No, ALL J-Spec's are TII. Lots of camber in front, 0 in back. Rear sway bar, none in front. Grippy tires in front, shittly ones in the rear. Stiff springs in back, slightly softer up front. LSD. Lots od pratice. This setup is one I got from RETed, so if it sucks, yell at him!! Yes, you can drift your N/A. I have tried it once, and it was actually not too bad!
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Thanks man, I was pretty sure that all j specs were turbo... I heard that from some guy in a local drift club guess I have some educating to do, eh?
And thanks for the setup.... BTW, what's stock camber on the rear wheels?
And thanks for the setup.... BTW, what's stock camber on the rear wheels?
#5
LSD is important to an extent. If you have never drifted before it doesnt matter untill you want better control.
I learned to drift in my dad's RWD ford ranger
so basically you can drift anything with a FR layout.
I learned to drift in my dad's RWD ford ranger
so basically you can drift anything with a FR layout.
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#8
Old [Sch|F]ool
Well one nice thing about neg. camber... too much is worse than not enough So lower it with really stiff springs so you get excess roll stiffness and so much negative camber the tires have no traction....
(just thinking out loud, I don't drift FCs)
(just thinking out loud, I don't drift FCs)
#9
Formula Mazda Driver
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You will need one of racing beat, or mazdatrix's Rear Suspension Camber Adjuster. RB sells em for $105 , not sure how much for Mazdatrix's. Any time you lower an FC without these things your camber will go way negative.
#10
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Some guy in a local drift club had info that there were N/A FC's in Japan. What an idiot. Sorry, but he is. You will need a LSD. Technically you can go without one, but with is much, much better. A N/A should have more than enough power. A less powerful car will make you that much better anyway. It's easy to get the tail loose and hold it out when you have over, hmm...let's say 250rwhp compared to under 140rwhp.
#11
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There does exist MANY Jap tuners / rotor heads running weird n/a's (too be different I suppose) in Japan. I've seen some strange stuff in Jap mags, like a 4 port with really small peri ports also on the same engine. I've seen manifolds and housings for this. Peri port 1st gens seem to be popular too.
#12
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No technically not retarded. A lot of N/a blocks have been imported too japan because there is more responce in an N/a and not so with a TII. Ala Turbo lag. The 6 ports are a messy thing but when they work they are an extremelly good idea and are almost instantataneous where the turbo isn't. And you don't nessisarilly need the torque produced from the turbo's either. Aww yeah I guess that is it. yeah and your tire set up should look like this
/ \
\ /
Is that right? Or did I get it backwards? I don't know let some one conferm, I am to tired and need to zip to work
/ \
\ /
Is that right? Or did I get it backwards? I don't know let some one conferm, I am to tired and need to zip to work
#13
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What you see in the magazines and videos is not what is generally seen on the streets over there. Hop a plane and stay for a while to test that out and you'll see. Those tuner shops that do the crazy build-ups get the 15min of fame for their efforts/imagination/engineering prowess/being in good with the magazine/etc. I saw one where a 13B-REW was made N/A. Go figure? Sure, there are "techinally" some N/A FC's over there, but that's not how Mazda sold them. Just pick up a local used car publication if you can and sure enough close to 100% of the FC's will be turbo. I'm all for a good responsive engine that you don't have to worry about getting a kick of power in the middle of a sweeper if my foot decides to twitch. But I still love turbos all the same for street usage.
Gefunk: with the tires, are you trying to represent toe-in/toe-out or neg/pos camber? About 2~3 degrees of camber up front is good with about 1 degree in the back. To adjust the rear camber, check out k2rd.com for the thingamabob link that can adjust the camber back there. You still need plenty of traction in the back to control the car's attitude. If it's toe-out in the back making the tires point outboard on the leading edge, then that'll make it easier for the back to come out as well. Not good for stability though as it'll make the car twitchy.
Gefunk: with the tires, are you trying to represent toe-in/toe-out or neg/pos camber? About 2~3 degrees of camber up front is good with about 1 degree in the back. To adjust the rear camber, check out k2rd.com for the thingamabob link that can adjust the camber back there. You still need plenty of traction in the back to control the car's attitude. If it's toe-out in the back making the tires point outboard on the leading edge, then that'll make it easier for the back to come out as well. Not good for stability though as it'll make the car twitchy.
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Originally posted by Jerk_Racer
About 2~3 degrees of camber up front is good with about 1 degree in the back.
About 2~3 degrees of camber up front is good with about 1 degree in the back.
#15
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toe-out in the rear is a NO NO in pretty much ANY situation I can think of. It will make your car drive like a drunken something or other when on straightaways.
I wouldn't think a P-port would be an ideal drifting setup. I'm not a "drifter" but I'd think you would want a good usable powerband with lots of torque, as opposed to a peaky powerband that only makes power above 7-8k rpm's.
I wouldn't think a P-port would be an ideal drifting setup. I'm not a "drifter" but I'd think you would want a good usable powerband with lots of torque, as opposed to a peaky powerband that only makes power above 7-8k rpm's.
#16
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Originally posted by rico05
No, ALL J-Spec's are TII. Lots of camber in front, 0 in back. Rear sway bar, none in front. Grippy tires in front, shittly ones in the rear. Stiff springs in back, slightly softer up front. LSD. Lots od pratice. This setup is one I got from RETed, so if it sucks, yell at him!! Yes, you can drift your N/A. I have tried it once, and it was actually not too bad!
No, ALL J-Spec's are TII. Lots of camber in front, 0 in back. Rear sway bar, none in front. Grippy tires in front, shittly ones in the rear. Stiff springs in back, slightly softer up front. LSD. Lots od pratice. This setup is one I got from RETed, so if it sucks, yell at him!! Yes, you can drift your N/A. I have tried it once, and it was actually not too bad!
I used to drift my N/A in the states, and once you get your toe out cancelled, it's not too bad. The N/A has good response...great for drifting!
#17
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I drift my FC every night.
1. Suspension is more important than power, any of the pro drifters will attest to this.
2. My setup that I find works well
stock struts in front, RB springs
KYB AGX struts in rear, RB springs (set to either 4 or 5, depending on conditions
RB sway bars front and rear
Cheap *** new tires on all 4's (Falken Ziex 502's)
RB toe in Eliminator
You really need to have an LSD, its pretty much an essential. You can do it without, but when you really want to do some serious drifting you will have to break down and get the LSD.
I plan on going to a K2RD coilover kit, as soon as ted will sell the kit with only the 2 front struts
1. Suspension is more important than power, any of the pro drifters will attest to this.
2. My setup that I find works well
stock struts in front, RB springs
KYB AGX struts in rear, RB springs (set to either 4 or 5, depending on conditions
RB sway bars front and rear
Cheap *** new tires on all 4's (Falken Ziex 502's)
RB toe in Eliminator
You really need to have an LSD, its pretty much an essential. You can do it without, but when you really want to do some serious drifting you will have to break down and get the LSD.
I plan on going to a K2RD coilover kit, as soon as ted will sell the kit with only the 2 front struts
#18
I heard that there were a few fc NAs that were shipped to japan. Dont ask me I know they are more responsive but again ever been to autobacs? Raybrig fogs 25000 yen?? huge spoilers on american vans??? 8000 yen airfreshners?? Got me Im Japanese but they are pretty retarded some times. Importing an NA wouldnt suprise me.
Oh also I saw a bunch of Toyota<there> with amreican equivenelt badges on them. Toyota-Lexus
Aristo-GS400, Soarer-SC400, Altezza-IS300.
Gofigure same crap here 240sx with 180sx/silvia stuff on them
Oh also I saw a bunch of Toyota<there> with amreican equivenelt badges on them. Toyota-Lexus
Aristo-GS400, Soarer-SC400, Altezza-IS300.
Gofigure same crap here 240sx with 180sx/silvia stuff on them
#20
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Originally posted by rico05
Would a set of toe-eliminator bushings help out any? Also, is it possible to drift w/o p/s?
Would a set of toe-eliminator bushings help out any? Also, is it possible to drift w/o p/s?
And I took my p/s belt out to get my hp...and still drifted fine
#21
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Good. I assumed that toe in would screw up the traction loss in the rear. So I can still rip it w/o p/s. Nice. Time to invest in some shocks and bushings...
#22
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Originally posted by rico05
Good. I assumed that toe in would screw up the traction loss in the rear. So I can still rip it w/o p/s. Nice. Time to invest in some shocks and bushings...
Good. I assumed that toe in would screw up the traction loss in the rear. So I can still rip it w/o p/s. Nice. Time to invest in some shocks and bushings...
#23
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Well, I have full exhaust, new intake, upgraded wires, and am porting the manifolds, so I am done w/ speed mods. I want a drifter, not a dragger! Any brand of shocks you reccomend? I was thinking of KYB AGX. Also, exactly what camber do you reccomend? I am picking up some camber adjustment plates to help in that area.
#24
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Originally posted by rico05
Well, I have full exhaust, new intake, upgraded wires, and am porting the manifolds, so I am done w/ speed mods. I want a drifter, not a dragger! Any brand of shocks you reccomend? I was thinking of KYB AGX. Also, exactly what camber do you reccomend? I am picking up some camber adjustment plates to help in that area.
Well, I have full exhaust, new intake, upgraded wires, and am porting the manifolds, so I am done w/ speed mods. I want a drifter, not a dragger! Any brand of shocks you reccomend? I was thinking of KYB AGX. Also, exactly what camber do you reccomend? I am picking up some camber adjustment plates to help in that area.
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Don't forget to mention that people who still own an FC must be super enthusiasts because of the weird insurance tax laws. Everyone there buys a new car every 3 or so years because of the weird laws and when you go to the junker you see perfectly good cars sitting around. =(
Um yes i'm japanese and have lived there for periods of time.
Um yes i'm japanese and have lived there for periods of time.