Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

guys i wanna know everything i can possible do to make my 6-port NA faster....it isnt going to be a T2 i know that, and I have heard about doing a motor swap but with maybe getting in and streetporting it if that what else can i do to get maximum output out of my sixport rotary?

OC_

As soon as i get some money, its SUPERCHARGER time!

.... or so i hope.

Supercharging should work out pretty good. The 6 port engines flow that much more then 4 porters

Lazieboy

you could go with a bridge port or any one of those big ports to really get your car moving. You could also do the supercharger but the one thing I don't like about the supercharger is that when the supercharger fails on you all the parts from the supercharger get sent into your engine and you will need a new engine. I would also recommend going with a carb. For a N/A the stock intake system just won't get you into a nice amount of HP. You could put a nitrous shot on it. A good MSD set up would help you out a bit.

OC_

you must have looked at the atkins supercharger setup. Im so against carbs its funny. Im thinking of going with a vortech charger, 3rd party fuel and ignition control, you know.. the works.

Oh.. its going to be pretty hard to bridge port a 6 port engine, unless you get the "eyelet" port

Lazieboy

You get rid of the 6 port.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

i heard bridgeporting is out of the question on 6 ports....look at my other thread on streetport vs bridgeport.......anyhow a supercharger sounds good but whats the cost? and whats the cost of a carb?...and how exactly do i get rid of the 6-port...im sticking with my motor...a swap is out of the question also....so someone lemme know...peace

kristopher_d

Why centrifugal? Go with a whipple and make your own ducting. With a custom hood you can draw cool air from the high pressure zone at the base of the windshield, reducing intake temps and restriction in one shot (90deg bend to drivers side for the MAF, then 90deg bend up for filter. Puts intake dead center with lots of fresh air.)

OC_

Problem #1: How in gods name could you mount this to your engine within reasonable limits. I can make Brackets, but not ones with complex 3-D compound curves and so-on.

Problem #2: Connecting this to an intake manifold. This is designed for various V-8s, and V type piston layout. This system also takes the place of the intake manifold. And its not like you can hook tubes to the bottom of the SC to our intake.

Problem #3: This thing is pretty damn big, theres no way. and what about belts?

a centrifugal unit is kind of like a tubo, as it can be applied to a lot of things. I can use the stock intake, and its not effected by intake/exaust overlap like a turbo is. Plus it runs cooler since exaust gas is not used to drive it. plus, the power starts as soon as you turn the key. The down side is that its not as efficent as a turbo.

OC_

dont go carb, unless you feel like downgrading your system. Lets say this together people "cabs are lame becuase they are less efficent, require tuning through the use of ***** and bending things, make less power, not able to meter fuel as accurately as F.I. therefor not making the power of a good F.I. system, and are outdated, and fun to start in the cold" the only good thing about a carb is that there cheap and simple. Maybe not so cheap anymore if your looking for some of those webbers.

OC_

sorry for getting off topic.

Lets see, power adders for a fellow N/A. Not much you really can do, at least compaired to piston engines. You can get a cold air intake kit, and you can get the swap in/swap out cat setup. but if you have an S4, your going to have trouble opening your 5th 6th ports and VDI with no cats. You can also get a header and cat-back exaust. Theres those pineapple 5th and 6th port sleevs everone talks about, but i want to see how much power they add on a dyno. im guessing around 2 hp.

Then theirs the big $tuff. Like all the porting and crap. and other things like custom intake manifolds. But you start losing streetability, because you wont even idle below 4000000000 rpm. emissions also becomes a problem if you have to test in your area.

ronny76

The bigest restriction on the 6p engine is the ex.sleves.
They dont flow ****!!Replace them with turbo2 ones,and give the ex.port a good port job.
On the intake side,the primary ports on the 6p engine can be ported as much as on the t2 engine.
The secundery ports are flowing alot more than the t2 ports,so the only thing you would like to do is to make them open earlier.
For the fuel system,You can either go carb or efi.
Carb aint that bad,but will give you worse mpg,and alot of hassle tuning it.
If you go for efi,there is alot of brands to chose between,but you must expect to pay over $1000 for it.
Or you can do it the way I did it,I got my prog efi for $110 with programs and all the software I needed.
It`s a diy efi called MegaSqurit and it can be made to fit any engine.I`m using it on a street ported t2 with a kkk k27 turbo on it.NO regrets getting it,it`s working very well and it easy to tune as soon as you understad how it works.
Cheers
Ronny

mazdaspeed7

Im so sick of hearing this crap. The atuators only need about 3 PSI of back presure to open. An exhaust with NO mufflers at all(just pipes off a header) will give you 4-5 PSI of backpressure. Each muffler adds about 1-2 PSI on top of that.

Now the problem with there not being enough back pressure is caused by people who refuse to clean their 6 ports. They get dirty, and sticky, an dont want to move like they should. Cleaning your 6 ports should be a requirement with doing any exhaust work. Theres no excuse for the 6 ports not working after getting a better exhaust.



I have a set of those on my vert, and in my coupe(with a little modification), and I can tell you its worth a few hp, but the gains in throttle response and engine smoothness, not to mention the nice torque gain across the rpm range is WELL worth it. I recommend these to anyone with a 6 port motor.


Have you ever been around a ported motor? It really sounds like you havent. A good street port will get you 20, maybe 25 hp on a 6 port motor. And the loss on drivability and streetability is barely noticable. You wouldnt hesitate to drive that every day. Now when you get more extreme, drivability will suffer some, but after talkign to someone who drove a PP n/a on the street for a while, its perfectly streetable, as long as you dont mind the 1500-2000 rpm idle, and loud car from the required open exhaust. But it still has more get up and go on the bottom end than a stock port n/a, but is an absolute screamer on the top end.

ronny76, how well is the megasquirt working for you? Im really thinking of getting one.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

http://www.atkinsrotary

kristopher_d

I've got the isometrics on the 1600AXL from whipple and am working, among other things, on designing the brackets and piping. On the whipple, there's no need to swap manifolds, look at the iso's. Whipple understands that you want to keep your FI system. I haven't looked that close yet, but I'm pretty damn sure the 1600 will fit fine to the passenger side of the engine. As for belts, replace all those v-belts with one serpentine. That's my plan. There are other options, I just haven't enjoyed the behavior of Turbos or centrifugal s/c's. I will admit, however, than I haven't driven either in a more modern design.

bcty

we have already done this and pretty much made the fastest n/a.... search for "make your dream n/a"

PJ-4.2L

Dude
, maybe you can help me out. I just ook apart my intake, cleaned the hell out of my sleaves and 6 ports... Wire brush, carb cleaner, cotton swabs, ATF, the works... The sleaves turn like butter and the rods are turning just fine. The actuators are not stuck, I am still running ACV, air pump, etc... All I have done is gutted cats, and my 6 ports STILL don't open.

I wired them open again, and it's not like my sleaves are in backwards or anything... My actuators simply do not pull at all. Everything is clean and perfect... What gives? (It's an 86 base).

PJ

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

im familiar with the other dream NA thread...but you have people in there talking about getting 20b NA's 26B's...putting turbos on them....V8 swaps......no i wanmt just some seriousness on how far you can take a pretty much base 86 model without swapping the motor and getting a 4 port or a t2....just curious.....

BDoty311

Is that all you get?? Ive always thought that you get more than that with a streetport but i havent ever had experience with streetporting.

mazdaspeed7

Did you pull the control rods out and clean those too? Thats usually the culprit. They smould move freely, almost no resistance for the control rods themselves. Next, have you checked the lines that go to the actuators? They might be blocked by carbon, or leaking pressure.

There is a restriction somewhere if your actuators arent opening with your exhaust.



BDoty311, Im sure you can get more hp out of a SP, but thats abotu how mcuh power an average Sp will add on a n/a 6 port motor. 4 port motors are a totally differnet story though.

bcty

yeah they went a bit off topic.. so what i have in my sig is pretty much what you can do.. that is what i got out of it. i think that would be pretty much the fastest n/a without a PP

PJ-4.2L

Mazdaspeed7, I took the entire lower intake apart-- I cleaned teh rods until they were shining. The actuators were not leaking, but I could only go so far to clean those tiny little holes (are these what you call 'lines?') which feed them.

I spent 4 days cleaning the damn 6 port system, only to end-up wiring them open all over again. Everything moves freely but no cigar... *sigh*

Hey, PM me if you still make those CF dash/stereo cover things.

PJ

BDoty311

Thanks for the info Mazdaspeed7. I only have one question though... what engines are 4-ports?? 1st gens??

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

from what i gather the T2 motors are 4 ports....all NA's are six ports.....

BDoty311

I never knew that.

mazdaspeed7

Let me clarify a little. 4 port motors = all early 13B's, all 12A's, and all late turbo motors. 6 port motors = all 84 and later n/a 13B's.