Drag racing tips? Please help!
#1
s4 for life
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Thread Starter
Drag racing tips? Please help!
I plan on going to the track for the first time soon. I don't want to be walking around like I lost my puppy though
Could anyone tell me what I need and what I need to know for my first time at a track?
I know I will need a helmet, but what about other stuff? How much should it cost, what rpm should I start at? Insane burn out? Dump the Clutch? Walk around with $2k (j/k), What MUST my car have? What are all the tracks around the seattle area?
Please help, I don't want to look like an idiot out there!
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I know I will need a helmet, but what about other stuff? How much should it cost, what rpm should I start at? Insane burn out? Dump the Clutch? Walk around with $2k (j/k), What MUST my car have? What are all the tracks around the seattle area?
Please help, I don't want to look like an idiot out there!
#2
Ho's and Cadillac Doors
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i would first practice before just hopping on the track. Whenever I launch I hold the RPMs at 5k, and hold the clutch halfway out, just so it is right at the point of engaging. If you warmed your tires up good, and have good tires, you should dump the clutch and the rear end should stick just fine.
What must your car have? A good clutch for starters. it looks like you have mods, but without a decent clutch, drag racing and launching like that is gonna take it's toll on your stock clutch.
Other than that, I would practice on deserted roads or wherever there is no traffic or enclosed spaces where deer or something could potentially run out. Just practice launching, and quick shifts. Make sure you have a good feel for your gearbox, God knows how many times I would miss third when I first got my car. Practice makes perfect, just remember that. I'm assuming if this is your first time then you are going to an open strip somewhere and just doing bracket racing. So I wouldnt worry too much about kicking people's asses all over the place, our N/A's arent exactly the fastest things ever, but a good driver can make the slowest car ever pretty quick.
What must your car have? A good clutch for starters. it looks like you have mods, but without a decent clutch, drag racing and launching like that is gonna take it's toll on your stock clutch.
Other than that, I would practice on deserted roads or wherever there is no traffic or enclosed spaces where deer or something could potentially run out. Just practice launching, and quick shifts. Make sure you have a good feel for your gearbox, God knows how many times I would miss third when I first got my car. Practice makes perfect, just remember that. I'm assuming if this is your first time then you are going to an open strip somewhere and just doing bracket racing. So I wouldnt worry too much about kicking people's asses all over the place, our N/A's arent exactly the fastest things ever, but a good driver can make the slowest car ever pretty quick.
#3
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I can only tell you what I know of drag racing in general, I have no idea what RPMs to launch at or what tracks are in Seattle
Get some shoepolish, make sure your tires are properly inflated, and head over to the track, on an appropriate street legal drag night, tell the people at the gate that you're racing, pay your fee, and find a spot to park. Unload anything loose in the car, check pressure on your tires (street radials typically do not respond well to lowered pressures, 30+ psi is normal), make sure your battery is secure, and head over to the tech line (ask people to find out where Tech is). If they give you paperwork to fill out, do so, then get teched. Make sure it's clear that you're not faster than 14.99 or you'll get docked for no roll bar.. or is it 13.99. Anyway, doesn't matter to you, but make sure you tell them if they complain.
They'll write a number on the car passenger window.. This is your car number. Ask the tech guy what lane you should be in, and if you have to run with the top up. and head over to taht lane. While there are only two racing surfaces, there are typically 7-8 staging lanes for various levels of cars. Head over to that lane, pop the hood, and wait. They'll usually signal each lane to fire up, but if you're way in the back, you may miss it. If the guy in front of you suddenly starts his engine, and starts moving, that's a good sign that your lane is up.
When you get to the head of the lane, WATCH THE MAN OR WOMAN there who is directing cars. A closed fist means STOP. They'll point you to which racing lane to go to. Head over there, and go AROUND the water box unless you're slicks and skinny tires up front (which you wont). Watch the second guy/gal, they'll wave you forward, after the guy next up does his/her burnout, and stages. Once they wave you forward, move ahead of the water box and line up with the track. Don't move too far, and WATCH that guy. If he gives you a twirly signal, that's the signal to do a burnout. A quick spinup is fine for street radials, they don't work better hot, so no burnout for you!
Once your'e done making smoke, prestage. Pull forward until you light the very top set of very small lights at the top of the tree on your side. Wait for your opponent to prestage, then move to break the next set of beams and light up the staging lights (2nd set of small lights, both sets should be lit). Rev up to whatever you're going to launch at, and wait for the lights to go down. AT the third yellow, GO. Don't wait for the green, you'll lose..
They should give you at least one practice run before the eliminations begin, and they should tell you when they do move to eliminations. Typically most places give 3, but if it's like our local tracks, everyone with a car shows up and you're lucky to get one.
Decide what to set your breakout to, then write that time in your window, under your car number. If you ran an absolutely perfect 15.0 run, and you honestly don't think you could do better, write in a 14.99. But since it's your first time, most guys improve after practice, so I fudge it and write in a 14.7, if the fastest I've run is a 15.0. That way, if you improve, you can go without breaking out. OTOH, if you don't, and the other guy does get closer to his breakout time, you will probably lose. Don't expect to be John Force your first time.
Ok, if you win, and you will eventually, head back to the staging lanes.. Reevaluate your breakout time, and write that one in. Repeat
Things to remember..
Turn off your headlights if it's nighttime, until you get to the staging lanes. That way you won't blind workers.
Watch the workers, they get mmaaadd when you don't.
Have your windows rolled up when you get to the head of the staging lanes.
Have fun, it's no big deal. If you get yelled at, be polite, do what they say, and they'll welcome you back. Smart off, they'll remember you.
PauLC
Get some shoepolish, make sure your tires are properly inflated, and head over to the track, on an appropriate street legal drag night, tell the people at the gate that you're racing, pay your fee, and find a spot to park. Unload anything loose in the car, check pressure on your tires (street radials typically do not respond well to lowered pressures, 30+ psi is normal), make sure your battery is secure, and head over to the tech line (ask people to find out where Tech is). If they give you paperwork to fill out, do so, then get teched. Make sure it's clear that you're not faster than 14.99 or you'll get docked for no roll bar.. or is it 13.99. Anyway, doesn't matter to you, but make sure you tell them if they complain.
They'll write a number on the car passenger window.. This is your car number. Ask the tech guy what lane you should be in, and if you have to run with the top up. and head over to taht lane. While there are only two racing surfaces, there are typically 7-8 staging lanes for various levels of cars. Head over to that lane, pop the hood, and wait. They'll usually signal each lane to fire up, but if you're way in the back, you may miss it. If the guy in front of you suddenly starts his engine, and starts moving, that's a good sign that your lane is up.
When you get to the head of the lane, WATCH THE MAN OR WOMAN there who is directing cars. A closed fist means STOP. They'll point you to which racing lane to go to. Head over there, and go AROUND the water box unless you're slicks and skinny tires up front (which you wont). Watch the second guy/gal, they'll wave you forward, after the guy next up does his/her burnout, and stages. Once they wave you forward, move ahead of the water box and line up with the track. Don't move too far, and WATCH that guy. If he gives you a twirly signal, that's the signal to do a burnout. A quick spinup is fine for street radials, they don't work better hot, so no burnout for you!
Once your'e done making smoke, prestage. Pull forward until you light the very top set of very small lights at the top of the tree on your side. Wait for your opponent to prestage, then move to break the next set of beams and light up the staging lights (2nd set of small lights, both sets should be lit). Rev up to whatever you're going to launch at, and wait for the lights to go down. AT the third yellow, GO. Don't wait for the green, you'll lose..
They should give you at least one practice run before the eliminations begin, and they should tell you when they do move to eliminations. Typically most places give 3, but if it's like our local tracks, everyone with a car shows up and you're lucky to get one.
Decide what to set your breakout to, then write that time in your window, under your car number. If you ran an absolutely perfect 15.0 run, and you honestly don't think you could do better, write in a 14.99. But since it's your first time, most guys improve after practice, so I fudge it and write in a 14.7, if the fastest I've run is a 15.0. That way, if you improve, you can go without breaking out. OTOH, if you don't, and the other guy does get closer to his breakout time, you will probably lose. Don't expect to be John Force your first time.
Ok, if you win, and you will eventually, head back to the staging lanes.. Reevaluate your breakout time, and write that one in. Repeat
Things to remember..
Turn off your headlights if it's nighttime, until you get to the staging lanes. That way you won't blind workers.
Watch the workers, they get mmaaadd when you don't.
Have your windows rolled up when you get to the head of the staging lanes.
Have fun, it's no big deal. If you get yelled at, be polite, do what they say, and they'll welcome you back. Smart off, they'll remember you.
PauLC
#4
s4 for life
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Thread Starter
Thanks, I never have abused my car by dumping the clutch or anything like that. I plan on getting a sport clutch kit soon just for that reason. I plan on doing that when I drop a J-spec turbo in this summer, but I don't want to wait that long to race. I want to know how much faster the turbo motor will make it in the 1/4.
-engage at 5k
-practice
-better clutch
-warm up tires
Any one else have tips? How much dose a day at the track cost?
-engage at 5k
-practice
-better clutch
-warm up tires
Any one else have tips? How much dose a day at the track cost?
#5
s4 for life
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Thread Starter
Thanks Silkworm, Im gonna print that out so I will remember everything. It would probably be a good idea to go and watch once. look for all the cues and such. I think ill do that.
#7
I am not saying the RX-7 is not made for straight line, but the RX-7 is more a handling car than a straight line beast. For me, straight line acceleration isn't that important. Having nice suspension is what matters to me most!
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#8
Passenger
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I dunno about n/a's but dumping at 5k seems to be alot. I do have a turbo, but i usually start out at about 3500, The tires spin some, but if i dump it at 5k they spin alot. I have a problem at about 5k with the turbo being engaged, the tires just start to spin in first, and get a little when i shift into second.
Here the average daily cost is like 15bucks
Here the average daily cost is like 15bucks
#9
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The first time at the dragstrip can be somewhat intimidating, but it's really nothing that a little forethought and careful observation can't take care of. I would strongly advise going to the track one night and watching the proceedings for an hour or two- you'll get a much better feel for what's going on.
Things That Will Get You Kicked Out:
1. Driving like an *** in the pits, the staging lanes, or the return road. I once had a car showered with gravel in the pits because somebody decided to get all sideways in the dirt. My car wasn't the only one that was hit. After the other racers got through with the guilty party, they reported him to the track manager and he was banned, permanently. Don't speed on the return road, either. Stick to the track speed limits.
2. Disobeying or ignoring the track workers.
3. Doing a burnout before you're told to do so- especially if there is a car still staged in front of you.
4. Driving recklessly on the track. This probably won't be an issue with an N/A convertible, but if you get all sideways and out of shape- let off. It's just a bracket race.
Things That Will Get You Laughed At:
1. Doing a burnout or dry hop across the line (you aren't driving a ProMod) and then staging with your back tires. Every third pair at most import races, somebody does this. Usually in a Honda.
2. Leaving your car unattended in the staging lanes and then missing your lane's call. People do not like this.
3. Driving through the water instead of around it, and then trying to launch. It doesn't work.
4. Sitting in the staging lanes with the stereo of doom bumping for all its worth.
5. Writing "All Motor" with shoe polish in the windows of a 17 second car, like people would have a hard time figuring that out. (OK, now I'm just venting)
BTW- I do believe the rollbar requirement for convertibles is 13.99 or quicker.
Things That Will Get You Kicked Out:
1. Driving like an *** in the pits, the staging lanes, or the return road. I once had a car showered with gravel in the pits because somebody decided to get all sideways in the dirt. My car wasn't the only one that was hit. After the other racers got through with the guilty party, they reported him to the track manager and he was banned, permanently. Don't speed on the return road, either. Stick to the track speed limits.
2. Disobeying or ignoring the track workers.
3. Doing a burnout before you're told to do so- especially if there is a car still staged in front of you.
4. Driving recklessly on the track. This probably won't be an issue with an N/A convertible, but if you get all sideways and out of shape- let off. It's just a bracket race.
Things That Will Get You Laughed At:
1. Doing a burnout or dry hop across the line (you aren't driving a ProMod) and then staging with your back tires. Every third pair at most import races, somebody does this. Usually in a Honda.
2. Leaving your car unattended in the staging lanes and then missing your lane's call. People do not like this.
3. Driving through the water instead of around it, and then trying to launch. It doesn't work.
4. Sitting in the staging lanes with the stereo of doom bumping for all its worth.
5. Writing "All Motor" with shoe polish in the windows of a 17 second car, like people would have a hard time figuring that out. (OK, now I'm just venting)
BTW- I do believe the rollbar requirement for convertibles is 13.99 or quicker.
Last edited by DoriZaru; 06-05-02 at 11:01 PM.
#10
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally posted by Silkworm
When you get to the head of the lane, WATCH THE MAN OR WOMAN there who is directing cars.
Don't move too far, and WATCH that guy.
Watch the workers, they get mmaaadd when you don't.
Have your windows rolled up when you get to the head of the staging lanes.
If you get yelled at, be polite, do what they say, and they'll welcome you back. Smart off, they'll remember you.
When you get to the head of the lane, WATCH THE MAN OR WOMAN there who is directing cars.
Don't move too far, and WATCH that guy.
Watch the workers, they get mmaaadd when you don't.
Have your windows rolled up when you get to the head of the staging lanes.
If you get yelled at, be polite, do what they say, and they'll welcome you back. Smart off, they'll remember you.
And we do remember! It’s fun seeing the look on some guys face when you say to him, “you were such an obnoxious *** last time you were here, you can’t race today!”
#12
Silkworm-
you about summed it up as far as what to bring and guidelines on how to race.
13Bpower- The NHRA rules state that if you have a convertible that runs faster than 13.99 you need a 6pt roll bar. If it is faster than 11.99 then you need a 10pt roll cage. You car should run some high 14's/low 15's I'm guessing with the mods in your sig. Good times are directly related to how fast you can get past the first 60ft. This is called your 60ft time.
2.1 second 60ft for a fairly stock RX-7 non turbo is decent. If you can pull sub 2.0 60ft times you are doing well on street tires.
RX-7's squat similar to a 240Z with an aggressive launch and sticky tires. They can actually 60ft remarkably well
.
Bring a helmet just in case you need it, make sure your battery is securely tied down, you have a radiator overflow bottle (which all factory RX-7's have anyway). Other than that.... good luck.
GNX7
you about summed it up as far as what to bring and guidelines on how to race.
13Bpower- The NHRA rules state that if you have a convertible that runs faster than 13.99 you need a 6pt roll bar. If it is faster than 11.99 then you need a 10pt roll cage. You car should run some high 14's/low 15's I'm guessing with the mods in your sig. Good times are directly related to how fast you can get past the first 60ft. This is called your 60ft time.
2.1 second 60ft for a fairly stock RX-7 non turbo is decent. If you can pull sub 2.0 60ft times you are doing well on street tires.
RX-7's squat similar to a 240Z with an aggressive launch and sticky tires. They can actually 60ft remarkably well
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Bring a helmet just in case you need it, make sure your battery is securely tied down, you have a radiator overflow bottle (which all factory RX-7's have anyway). Other than that.... good luck.
GNX7
#13
Lives on the Forum
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Since we got a lot of good technical advice so far, let me give you some not-so-obvious advice... ![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
1) Have a good time
2) RELAX - I know the first few times your head is going to be pounding, and you're all excited, but try to keep your head on.
3) Develop some thick skin - you're going to get yelled at and get ALL kinds of advice from a lot of people at the track.  Hell, they might even laugh at you - don't sweat it, you're there to have fun.
4) If you have ANY questions, ask a track official.
Most track officials are actually pretty cool, and if you explain to them this is your first time, they will usually cut you some slack.  Watching the track officials is very good advice - if you have ANY questions, just ask them.  Just cross your fingers you don't run into a bone head ones - sorry to say, they are out there.
I want to emphasize what you should and should not do in the burn-out box.  Do NOT roll into the "water box" unless you're running slicks.  If you do have slicks, do NOT drive through the water box with our front tires - drive around and back into the water box.  If you watch the "pro" guys do this, you'll catch the system.  For street tires, do quickee "chirp" - this gets rid of all the crap and rocks that might've stuck to your tires rolling up to the start.  Do NOT do burn-outs with street tires - this is plain stupid.  street tires are designed to cool down as fast as possible, all that heat generated during the burn-out just dissipates due to the street tire design.  Understand the chrismas tree and how the staging lights work.  People get antsy real fast when you don't know how to trigger the staging lights.  If you don't know how to stage, ask!  If you're running up against a "pro" car, get into the stage as quickly as you can - these "pro" cars usually run auto trans with trans brakes and cannot afford to wait for a slow-poke to stage correctly; plus, these guys usually have a staging ritual that they stick with, and they prefer street cars to stage first.
Nevermind about the RT and concentrate on the 60' times and your launch.  You can work on dropping your RT's later (you'll realize that you DON'T have to wait for the bottom green to light up to take off).  Launching is the key to a quick run - keep that in mind.
I know it's a lot of things to remember, but just concentrate on the first 4 I've listed, and you should get through with a pretty good experience.![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Ted
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
1) Have a good time
2) RELAX - I know the first few times your head is going to be pounding, and you're all excited, but try to keep your head on.
3) Develop some thick skin - you're going to get yelled at and get ALL kinds of advice from a lot of people at the track.  Hell, they might even laugh at you - don't sweat it, you're there to have fun.
4) If you have ANY questions, ask a track official.
Most track officials are actually pretty cool, and if you explain to them this is your first time, they will usually cut you some slack.  Watching the track officials is very good advice - if you have ANY questions, just ask them.  Just cross your fingers you don't run into a bone head ones - sorry to say, they are out there.
I want to emphasize what you should and should not do in the burn-out box.  Do NOT roll into the "water box" unless you're running slicks.  If you do have slicks, do NOT drive through the water box with our front tires - drive around and back into the water box.  If you watch the "pro" guys do this, you'll catch the system.  For street tires, do quickee "chirp" - this gets rid of all the crap and rocks that might've stuck to your tires rolling up to the start.  Do NOT do burn-outs with street tires - this is plain stupid.  street tires are designed to cool down as fast as possible, all that heat generated during the burn-out just dissipates due to the street tire design.  Understand the chrismas tree and how the staging lights work.  People get antsy real fast when you don't know how to trigger the staging lights.  If you don't know how to stage, ask!  If you're running up against a "pro" car, get into the stage as quickly as you can - these "pro" cars usually run auto trans with trans brakes and cannot afford to wait for a slow-poke to stage correctly; plus, these guys usually have a staging ritual that they stick with, and they prefer street cars to stage first.
Nevermind about the RT and concentrate on the 60' times and your launch.  You can work on dropping your RT's later (you'll realize that you DON'T have to wait for the bottom green to light up to take off).  Launching is the key to a quick run - keep that in mind.
I know it's a lot of things to remember, but just concentrate on the first 4 I've listed, and you should get through with a pretty good experience.
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Ted
#14
s4 for life
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Thread Starter
So I will be able to see everyone do there staging rituals when I go watch? THe "water box" (i'm alittle new to the teminoligy) is where I would chirp my tires, and don't get my front tires in the water box.
#15
Lives on the Forum
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If you can get very close to the starting line, yes, then you catch watch what they do at the starting line.  Keep a good watch at the cars rolling (slowly) and the christmas tree lights.
I don't think you're running slicks, right?  Then don't worry about the water box - this is only for guys running slicks.
Typically, the water box can be just a slight trough running across the lanes.  Sometimes the "water box" is just a area of asphalt with water shot into it - most of the tracks got water hoses just for that purpose.  Sometimes the "water box" is marked off with paint.
You typically have 3-4 car lengths from the water box to the starting line.  Do your dry hop after the water box, but before the starting line.  Try not to pass the starting line when doing your dry hop - it's an unwritten rule that unless you're running single digits (9.99 or faster) don't do NHRA style burnouts past the starting line - the veterans find this "tacky".
Try to get to the track early and watch the cars come out of the starting line for the first 30 minutes or so.  Try to pick up what they are doing prior to the start, and how the cars trigger the christmas tree.
Again, if you have questions ask - most spectators are very knowledge, but watch out for the guy trying to impress you.![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Ted
I don't think you're running slicks, right?  Then don't worry about the water box - this is only for guys running slicks.
Typically, the water box can be just a slight trough running across the lanes.  Sometimes the "water box" is just a area of asphalt with water shot into it - most of the tracks got water hoses just for that purpose.  Sometimes the "water box" is marked off with paint.
You typically have 3-4 car lengths from the water box to the starting line.  Do your dry hop after the water box, but before the starting line.  Try not to pass the starting line when doing your dry hop - it's an unwritten rule that unless you're running single digits (9.99 or faster) don't do NHRA style burnouts past the starting line - the veterans find this "tacky".
Try to get to the track early and watch the cars come out of the starting line for the first 30 minutes or so.  Try to pick up what they are doing prior to the start, and how the cars trigger the christmas tree.
Again, if you have questions ask - most spectators are very knowledge, but watch out for the guy trying to impress you.
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Ted
#17
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Man, what a great thread
ive been planning on going to New England dragway for a while (and might even get sponsered..? who knows, boss is too cool) and have been reading tones of stuff online about life in the pits, but this thread was more informative than anything else i have found online
ive been planning on going to New England dragway for a while (and might even get sponsered..? who knows, boss is too cool) and have been reading tones of stuff online about life in the pits, but this thread was more informative than anything else i have found online
#18
Tennis, anyone
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your gonna need a helmet, bring some tools, oil,water,
glugs, oh,,and a tow rope, a sand bag with sand to
move around over the rear wheels to help hook up.
1/2 tank gas,,add some octane booster,,add air to the
front tires to about 40-45 psi,and when you get there
take some out of the rear, to about 15-20 psi..
and try to be consistant,,in other words,,make each run
the exact same way as the last,,don't think your gonna
win,all or every time,,if you crack 2 or more of the same ET's, you could win the kitty,,you can lose the race,but
if you crack consistant ET's you win,,!! take a video
camera too,, or SLR .
glugs, oh,,and a tow rope, a sand bag with sand to
move around over the rear wheels to help hook up.
1/2 tank gas,,add some octane booster,,add air to the
front tires to about 40-45 psi,and when you get there
take some out of the rear, to about 15-20 psi..
and try to be consistant,,in other words,,make each run
the exact same way as the last,,don't think your gonna
win,all or every time,,if you crack 2 or more of the same ET's, you could win the kitty,,you can lose the race,but
if you crack consistant ET's you win,,!! take a video
camera too,, or SLR .
#19
My cars louder than yours
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arright man, you now know the rules and the "rules" if you get me, go out and practice your launches! on my 86 base and 88GTU i just sold, i would rev it about 4000 RPMs to be sure i was in the secondaries and out of the "hesitation" and slip the clutch to keep the tires from burning too bad. Burning the clutch or tires is bad, so kinda play with it until its just right. And like Ted and a few other guys have said... have fun!
#20
Has been.. hangin' around
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Originally posted by mark perez
your gonna need a helmet, bring some tools, oil,water,
glugs, oh,,and a tow rope, a sand bag with sand to
move around over the rear wheels to help hook up.
1/2 tank gas,,add some octane booster,,add air to the
front tires to about 40-45 psi,and when you get there
take some out of the rear, to about 15-20 psi..
and try to be consistant,,in other words,,make each run
the exact same way as the last,,don't think your gonna
win,all or every time,,if you crack 2 or more of the same ET's, you could win the kitty,,you can lose the race,but
if you crack consistant ET's you win,,!! take a video
camera too,, or SLR .
your gonna need a helmet, bring some tools, oil,water,
glugs, oh,,and a tow rope, a sand bag with sand to
move around over the rear wheels to help hook up.
1/2 tank gas,,add some octane booster,,add air to the
front tires to about 40-45 psi,and when you get there
take some out of the rear, to about 15-20 psi..
and try to be consistant,,in other words,,make each run
the exact same way as the last,,don't think your gonna
win,all or every time,,if you crack 2 or more of the same ET's, you could win the kitty,,you can lose the race,but
if you crack consistant ET's you win,,!! take a video
camera too,, or SLR .
Don't air down your tires. Filling the fronts extra high is a good idea however. Just don't get frisky on the way to the track.
PaulC
#21
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Airing them down a LITTLE won't hurt, but don't try to run drag slick pressure in a radial street tire. The tread will cup and significantly reduce the contact patch. Don't go lower than 25 psi or so in the rear. Also, don't do a burnout on street tires (as I think Ted previously mentioned). A short, quick spin is ok to clean the surface, but a burnout will actually reduce the traction available from most street tires.
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