don't believe everything you read on the forum.
people said if you wanted to run a s5 water pump on a s4 car all you need is the s5 housing. well it turns out a s5 housing wont fit with a s4 front cover. at least on the turbo model.
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why would you want an S5 water pump anything on a S4? last I checked the S4's had a cast aluminum water neck vs the S5's pos plastic neck?
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nope the water pump lower will hit on the OMP, how i broke mine. This was on an N/a. was it this forum? thread?
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You can get at least 30 horsepower converting a S4 water pump to an S5 one.
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Of course you cannot believe everything you read on these forums. There is tons of misinformation floating around.
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Originally Posted by rx7fc3s87
(Post 9665197)
You can get at least 30 horsepower converting a S4 water pump to an S5 one.
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Originally Posted by FirstRotaryExp
(Post 9665194)
why would you want an S5 water pump anything on a S4? last I checked the S4's had a cast aluminum water neck vs the S5's pos plastic neck?
read a few threads were people said they did it. maybe it was n/a. now it has me thinking I can't put a s5 wp/housing on a FD engine and run a FC radiator + FMIC |
it dosnt matter the engine. it matters what front cover your using. match up w/p housings to matching front covers.
*but, all water pump housings can be used on ALL fron covers with little modification. i know this not cause i read it on here. its because i have tested it. From FD front cover with 1st gen pump to FC pump and 1st gen cover. but these are not direct fits. |
in some cases you need to mill removed some material of the water pump housing to make it work,in my bros fb with a s5 turbo block we used the gle-se front cover with a s5 water pump and housing but the housings was machined a little bit in order to work,on my fc with a rew i used my s5 t2 front cover water pump and housings with no mods at all.Yuo need to match series in order to get them to work propertly
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You could have said: "Don't believe everything you read."
Yes, plenty of misinformation but as others have posted, it is possible with some modification. |
you CAN go the other way around, at least I did
plenty of people run a s4 cover on a s5? |
Originally Posted by need RX7
(Post 9665232)
Yeah if you combine it with S5 tails, it's like 50+.
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you should have asked me man.. i used to have an s4 pump on my s5 motor. s5 front cover but i had to block off the omp. also not all the bolts line up right, causes it to leak at higher rpm.
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yea what kind of thread is this? don't even have a link to where you read this or whom said such a thing? There is a lot of confusion on here, we're not all mazda engineers you know. well thanks for spreading the correct info tho, we now know there is modification involved in the fitment you suggested.
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I got my car pregnant a few years back and feel guilty that i made it have an abortion.
john ny |
Originally Posted by joeylyrech
(Post 9665592)
in some cases you need to mill removed some material of the water pump housing to make it work
Yup, I had to do this once, in order to get the car running ASAP... |
WHAT!?!?! All you guys are not completely honest!!! My whole world is shattered!!
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Originally Posted by therotaryrocket
(Post 9666220)
yea what kind of thread is this?
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Originally Posted by stevensimon
(Post 9666053)
you should have asked me man.. i used to have an s4 pump on my s5 motor. s5 front cover but i had to block off the omp. also not all the bolts line up right, causes it to leak at higher rpm.
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Originally Posted by dawicka2
(Post 9666388)
I got my car pregnant a few years back and feel guilty that i made it have an abortion.
john ny |
You guys fail. You don't even need a water pump. I run without any coolant. This way the sensor never sees any type of temperature and the gauge never gets high. It's great!
The only problem I've been having is the car gets harder and harder to start, but I think my rear housing has developed a cough. Or something. |
Originally Posted by beefhole
(Post 9669249)
You guys fail. You don't even need a water pump. I run without any coolant. This way the sensor never sees any type of temperature and the gauge never gets high. It's great!
The only problem I've been having is the car gets harder and harder to start, but I think my rear housing has developed a cough. Or something. I wonder what kind of gains you would see if you replaced the USDM air in the coolant passages with JDM air :question: I am having way too much fun with this. |
^Yeah. I mean 1 gallon of coolant is like 5 lbs? The FC takes 2-2.5. I figure I save around 10lbs, then take a dump and it's like 15lbs savings just from that. Take the WP off and then the radiator, more! The 7 CAN lose... WEIGHT
YESSSS |
Don't forget to refill the old water passages with helium to make the whole motor lighter. Safeway will sell you the bottle they use to make birthday ballons. To make this really work you have to modify your water pump blade. You take off the water propeller and put on the turbonator. This will help move the helium through the new modified coolant system. Also as the motor gets hotter, the helium will get lighter and thus so will your car.
I have also used helium for my tires. I could not afford light rims so I put helium instead of air. Also don't forget to mod your ac system for helium too. Ben |
Don't forget to refill the old water passages with helium to make the whole motor lighter. Safeway will sell you the bottle they use to make birthday ballons. To make this really work you have to modify your water pump blade. You take off the water propeller and put on the turbonator. This will help move the helium through the new modified coolant system. Also as the motor gets hotter, the helium will get lighter and thus so will your car.
I have also used helium for my tires. I could not afford light rims so I put helium instead of air. Also don't forget to mod your ac system for helium too. Ben |
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