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DOH! Still idling rough and dying on me when stopped!

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Old 11-03-04, 01:24 PM
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Words from the pro's , thanks
Old 11-03-04, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FC3Sideways
Check your TID or intake!! i had the worst idle ever and replaced my turbo inlet duct that was cracked . .. tightened all the clamps and it idles PERFECT !!!!!!
A real good idea. I had one of those cracks in the turbo inlet duct......right at the turbo. Causes a irratic idle/no idle.
Old 11-03-04, 02:26 PM
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i have heard of people havine problems with there ecu's as well causing it to have crappy idle. I would check everything else first though.
Old 11-03-04, 04:37 PM
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nice..... i fixed a car!!
now im 1 for 253 !!!
Old 11-06-04, 03:40 AM
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ok...UPDATE!

OK. Here's the deal.
I spoke with a local rotary buddy of mine who owns his own shop. He's worked on my car a few times before. We went through a few options as far as the cause of the problem. He seems to think that the primary injector plugs are crossed, therefore, firing the wrong rotors at the wrong time so to speak. So, I need more opinions on the matter. What do you guys think? My freind says that I should figure out the injector wires on the harness plug to the ECU, clip em, and swap em to see if that's really the problem. I'm considering it but i'm very, very leary about it. Any suggestions?
Old 11-06-04, 04:25 AM
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Do the TPS first. that changing of the injector plugs is kind of dangerous, blown engine anyone.


Gil
Old 11-06-04, 08:29 AM
  #32  
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It's not likely that the primary injectors are crossed. The harness is made in such a fashion that the leads won't reach from the front primary to the rear primary and vice versa, without you noticing the mess you'd have made.

If you go to the ECU and go to the proper wire for the injector your interested in and observe the 12v on that wire with a meter.......then go and pull that injectors plug off and the 12v disappears.....then you know you have the right plug on the right injector.

I've no idea what year car you have, but here's a jpg of the early 87 injector plugs and ECU plugs for them.
Attached Thumbnails DOH! Still idling rough and dying on me when stopped!-blackyellow.jpg  
Old 11-06-04, 08:38 AM
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Have you remove you UIM for any reason? if you did, I suggest you remove it again and replace the gasket between the UIM and LIM just to be sure. theyre are only like $4.00 from Mazda.
Old 11-06-04, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
It's not likely that the primary injectors are crossed. The harness is made in such a fashion that the leads won't reach from the front primary to the rear primary and vice versa, without you noticing the mess you'd have made.

Yea. the problem with that is that my harness loom was all messed up when I got it. I reloomed it with a buddy if mine. Took us a long time to do it too. it's possible that one of us got the wires crossed.
Old 11-06-04, 11:32 AM
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My 87 gxl did the same thing. I ended up changing all the crap that the guys suggested.....and nothing happened. Had the TPS adjusted and everything runs like a top. I betcha its the TPS.
Old 11-06-04, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Funkspectrum
Yea. the problem with that is that my harness loom was all messed up when I got it. I reloomed it with a buddy if mine. Took us a long time to do it too. it's possible that one of us got the wires crossed.
Your missing part of the points I made. A early series four, 1987 model uses a solenoid resistor as shown in the jpg I attached. You said you have low impedence injectors. If so, then you should be using a solenoid resistor or have an approx 10 ohm resistor in-line with each injector.

Latter half of 87 and on use high impedence injectors, as shown in YOUR diagram.

I'd do like suggested above.......do the tps adjustment first with a fully hot engine.

But.....I see something screwy with the injectors/solenoid resistor aspect.
Old 10-26-06, 12:55 PM
  #37  
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greetings.
new here, have been lurking for a while, but found this thread to be the one that helped the most.

so here is my story.
buoght an 87 gx for 2000 cdn. has good compression. but all kinds of issues.
not a problem, im not the kind of person to shy away from a chalenge.

get the car home, 3800 rpm issue to deal with on the way home, but i get it home.
so i think the first order of buisness is to deal with the hesitation. wrong.
i get to my local parts store, and it dies on me as i pull up.
fine, flodded, fine. get it going and barly get it home.
ok so what is going on here?
go through a bunch of checks, get to the tps and try to set it.
not getting a consistant reading from multimeter. cant set voltage.
ok so its shot. order up a new tps ( i am bypassing all the greef and headachs that i went through, pushing the car home from 2 blocks away after setting tps, flooding, inconsistant idle, backfiring, lurching all the things described in this thread ) while i wait for new tps to come in, do some digging, figure out that the cpu should be resoldered. ok pull it out, resolder, intsall. nice, all sorts of electrical issues, gone.
wohooooo, wife starts complaining after a couple of days "the next time we buy a car, you want to make sure its running first" lol. 2000 and passed emissons, i knew there would be issues. the guy i bought it off of said " im not a mechanic, and i have no idea where to start "
so i knew i was in for some work.
anyhooooo.
new tps comes in, install, use my tester ( thanks for the posts on how to make one ) set the tps, still running rough. doh. reset ecu. set tps, idle, timing, mix, ( thanks for all the links ) aahhhhhhhhh. listen to it purr now. so now it is on the road, but still have the 3800 rpm hesitation to deal with, ok, lets check out the secondary valves. one seems to be sticky. ( i found a post with someone else with the same problem, no solution ) most likely carbon. here is what i did.
remove actuator, pull secondary injectors, spray some intake medic into port, cycle valve by hand, rotate engine by hand, another shot of intake medic, same thing again, repeat. did this for both the front rotor ( one with sticking valve ) and rear. do the oil into spark plug hole trick, damn, to much oil, clean my plugs. try again. aaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhh. there she goes. actuator working as it should now. but still a hesitation at 3800 rpm.
so i do more digging around ( compression came up after cleaning out valve, might have had a seal or two sticking, dont know how well the o rings will deal with intake medic in this situation, but it seems to have worked ) now it is time to redo the grounds on this beast.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm

i agree with what is said in this article. the factory grounds were good to begin with, si will clean them all up, but a couple of them i will make a little beefier ( bell housing to firwall, and i might relocate the ecu ground, it is realy burried on the n/a motor )

ordering up some secdary sleeve inserts from pineapple racing ( should help a little ; ) and get in there and realy clean out the secondary valves.

but the ground issue is on the agenda for the day.

still to be done.

sunroof - comletely shot.
exaust - to loud ( call me old, but i prefer old school ) got a set of dual exaust with tips coming, along with working sunroof mech ( the one in there is busted all to hell and not usable ) the guy who had it before, pulled the cat and plugged the cat air line. secondaries not opening when they should. not going through the hassel of doing an electronic timer. and besides it was designed for a cat, high flow i think would be a better wat to go.
passenger power window switch - shot, motor works.
front bumper cover - busted in the corner - got curbed.
wiper switch - been checking into an omron replacement for the relay, if no luck i will refurbish the old one. corosion is the culprit here. clean the contacts and use some dialectric lube to prevent corrosion again.
and the stereo - jeeez - what the hell was this guy thinking when he put this thing in. wiring diagram - might i sugjest looking one up. factory wiring is fine to get signals to aftermarket amps, and keeps the interior from looking like a rats nest. if you need to run a power from the battery, might i sugjest going through the firewall. or tapping into the fuseblock. installing a new fuse conection is not that hard ( a pain in the but sometimes, but not that hard ) or use one that is not being used ( cruse control in my case ).
and last but not least - new tires.

interior trim pieces i am getting as part of a package deal, with sunroof, exaust, front bumper cover, rear wiper motor, and various finegaly pieces to get it up to snuff. all for 450 cdn, but as i knew from the start, a lot of elbow grease.

so far the tps has been the biggest headach, but the wife has stopped complaining since it is drivable.

i will update this when i am done.

and once again thanks.
Old 10-26-06, 06:33 PM
  #38  
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mwahahahahahahahaha
3800 rpm hesitation is now gonzo.

did all the ground fixs in aformentioned article.
redid the batery conections, had to pull the manifold to get at the ecu ground.
i had to pull the secondary coils to get at the grounding block under it.
lots of dielectric grease. lots of cleaning of connections.
lots done in a couple of hours.
took it for a drive, still hesitating.

decided to check the tps setings ( had a felling ) sure as **** is was out.
reset it.
reset the ecu

fired it up and went for a drive to let the ecu learn.
shut it down.
fired it back up again.
went for a spirited drive, voila. done.

goes like it should.
smooth acceleration throughout the rpm range.
no sputters, no backfires, just smooth, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

now for all the other crap to deal with.
disconnected the goofy power for the stereo.
do that tomorow.

the ongoing saga of bringing this thing back to life.

mwahahahahahaha
Old 10-29-06, 01:47 AM
  #39  
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and the saga continues.

next day the wife and i start the day doing some running around.
running fine to begin with, but then from out of the blue comes this lurching problem.
as i said before, lots of things to deal with in this one.

she goes to work and i figure after a couple of hours messing with the rx, i will take it for a feeway run and see how its doing. maybe secondary injectors, injector cleaner in tank and a good drive.
a little better but still has random lurches.

go out to the car to head over to a buddies.
hard start and running rich ( flames out the exaust, coooool, but wont drive for **** )
rough idle, so i check the timing, doh. forgot to tighten nut for crank angle sensor.

off for another long run.

i can finaly say nice and smooth now.
good power at all speeds.

yipeeeeee.
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