-Bönez Aluminum Flywheel - 86-88 Non-Turbo


It says this makes driveablity worse. But lots of ++ as well. What exactlly does this worsen in daily driving??
I know putting this on will help acceleration.
But will it be harder to drive?

 

It will make your car idle like ****.
I have one question.................
You have a 91 NA with a S4 intake manifold? Why?

 

I have an s5 manifold I just havent changed it. The car came with an s4 and it runs great so why change it. And why will it make ur car idle like ****. And what does "****" look like?

 

S5 should flow more air allowing more HP.
As for the flywheel, well I know once I installed mine I thought the timing was off, after several hours of trying to find what is causing my new motor to idle like crap I found a post talking about light weight flywheels causing rough idles. Do a search and you will see all the people that complain about it.
For the very little it might help I don't think it is worth it.

Well, I know the next time the tranny comes out that flywheel will be coming off also.

 

Looks exactly like the RB Aluminum flywheel I have.

And Fire85GSLSE what are you talking about idle like ****? My car idles the same way now as it did before the aluminum flywheel. Only difference is if I go into neutral at high rpm it just falls faster and hits a lower RPM than normally, but it pops right back up easily and has no problems at all.

 

Check, the idle is very rough although the car runs fine and has nice power.
I am not the first to say that the flywheel is rough on the idle. That is how I figured out what was causing my idle problems. There were several post about it.

 

Weird, my car idles smooth as silk, no lump, no roughness, no issues at all. The only time the idle was every lumpy was when I was running advanced timing, set it back to stock and its back to being perfectly smooth.

 

Do u notice a difference in acceleration?

 

Yah, acceleration is better now, it's nice.

 

Ddub - And since I figure ull know the answer to this question to. Does the s5 Intakemanifold Really make more HP??

 

My understanding is yes it does, but if your system has changed a lot (like porting) it'd be better to get it on a dyno and find the best point to have the VDI and aux sleeves open at since the power curve could've moved, then control them with an rpm switch or something.

Also, best combo is s4 LIM port matched to s5 UIM/etc.

 

I've never seen a lightweight flywheel cause any problems with the idle, and I've installed/owned at least 6 rx7's that had them.

 

Fire, try richening your variable resistor and i bet it cures your rough idle issues. the variable resistor is mounted on the RF strut tower and has a cap covering it and has the letters "R" and "L" embossed in it, clockwise is full rich and counterclockwise is full lean. don't go apeshit while ajusting it or it can break, it is a simple potentiometer which corrects the AFM signal.


as far as my understanding is, the lighter flywheels will reduce torque off the line and may cause a slightly rougher than normal idle on untuned engines but it will increase throttle response and acceleration.

i have a 11.5 light steel flywheel i will be putting onto my car and a 9.5lb light steel for a customer's car so i will be able to see the difference each makes soon.

 

I have a MazdaSpeed lighter flywheel. Its a good mod, nothing too serious... The idle does some drops from time to time, but its really no problem. Acceleration is better, the car has more nerve, but what someone might think as a problem: When leaving the gas pedal, the car looses speed very slow, so you want to aply brakes more.

Good mod, nothing too serious.

 

I will look into that.
I have tried several things trying to get the idle to smooth out. It does idle at 1100. My GSL-SE has a rebuilt motor (1800miles) using s4 uim, lim, TB, S4 rotors, s4 housings, Injectors upgraded from 680cc to 710cc, cone intake, msd blaster coils, running 7's and 9's for spark plugs, have OMP still but premix for saftey, did the
TB mod, no emissions what so ever, well the sticker under the hood, Full RB streetport dual exhaust with the provision for the 02 sensor and 5th and 6th port actuators.

My timing is set dead on with the vac advance pulled off. Once the vac advance is back on it is about 10 degrees advanced.

I would like to keep the flywheel on there but if i figure out it is for sure the cause it will come off. Even though I have read those people having issues with there idle, it should be something to fix.

I hope someone can figure this problem out.
If I figure it out I will post the findings.

 

It looks exactly like the racing beat, as someone else said. On my car, idle was not affected at all, you can feel the spped\rev difference on lower gears, and is less noticeable at higher gears.

Rpms does drop faster (more like instantly), when you put the clucth in, overall is a great item to have

BTW - The only issue is while accelerating from a stop, it takes a bit to get used to, but nothing special.

 

RB aluminum one on my daily driver NA FC. It very easy to adapt it - you will be surprized how easy to drive with it.

 

I put a few miles on my RB Aluminumn flywheel, I was kinda scared since some ppl said it would make steep hill starts a bitch. Well I have to say they were all wrong, I don't have to slip the clutch any more than when I had a stock flywheel.

If you have a N/A I would definatly go with a lighter flywheel.

 

is it a GSL-SE or an S4/S5?

if it's an S4/S5 read my reply a few posts back.

 

Ditto on what the guys said about idle, I have an SR Motorsports 11lbs FW, zero issues with idle, sometimes it surges a little when coming dwon to idle but settles down quick....I think this myth is busted...

Difference in acceleration?....yes, huge.

 

There are too many people that have put on a light weight flywheel and have issues with idle for this to be a myth. Do a search and you will see.




Are you asking me this?
If so my car is a GSL-SE. The motor was rebuilt using s4 rotors and housings, and I ordered the flywheel for the s4 to get the correct counter weight.

 

[QUOTE=Karack]Fire, try richening your variable resistor and i bet it cures your rough idle issues. the variable resistor is mounted on the RF strut tower and has a cap covering it and has the letters "R" and "L" embossed in it, clockwise is full rich and counterclockwise is full lean. don't go apeshit while ajusting it or it can break, it is a simple potentiometer which corrects the AFM signal.
QUOTE]

Karack,

Just a heads up, that does not work!

 

yeah, i found this out over the past few weeks. the idle is lopey naturally with ~10lb flywheels. personally i don't think it is as bad as you make it out to be though, sounds a bit like a bridgeport.


though i'm still wondering if it can be tuned out...

i guess i'll find out once i install my 11.5lb flywheel and microtech.

explains why i couldn't get the idle to smooth out on a friends car, he never told me he had a light flywheel!

 

Well mine is rough enough to shake the car slightly and with the hood raised the motor shakes. Some of it might be motor mounts, but not all of it.

Don't get me wrong I like the power I have from my motor but I think with a stock flywheel I would be as fast and have a smooth idle.

 

yeah, there is a tradeoff. light flywheels help acceleration and throttle response but they also make it hard from takeoffs and the idle is slightly lumpy but overall i think i am willing to live with it seeing how other engines idle with the light flywheels.