Do S4 LSD's wear out
#1
Do S4 LSD's wear out
Well I have an 88 GTU, and it is suposed to have an LSD from the factory, just a few minutes ago I jacked up the back of the car and turned one wheel and the other would spin with it, but when you whipped the tire the opposite was the other wheel would keep going the same way. Also when I put the car in gear with the rear end still in the air, and turned one wheel with the car in gear the other wheel would spin the opposite way. So do I just not have an LSD or is the clutch in my LSD just worn out. Also is there any sticker or tag or a certain number or letter on the vin number that tells me that it has an LSD.
#4
easy LSD check:
find some nice dry pavement, a light color is preferred.
Get in car. Insert in first gear. Rev to ~7000 RPM. Release foot from clutch pedal rapidly. Observe the markings left on the pavement. If there are two, your LSD is fine. If there is only 1, you should have some concerns.
find some nice dry pavement, a light color is preferred.
Get in car. Insert in first gear. Rev to ~7000 RPM. Release foot from clutch pedal rapidly. Observe the markings left on the pavement. If there are two, your LSD is fine. If there is only 1, you should have some concerns.
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#11
Also for cbrock,
just a few minutes ago I jacked up the back of the car and turned one wheel and the other would spin with it, but when you whipped the tire the opposite was the other wheel would keep going the same way. Also when I put the car in gear with the rear end still in the air, and turned one wheel with the car in gear the other wheel would spin the opposite way.
#14
Originally posted by rotary>piston
do one tire on low grip ground (grass/water/etc), and one on pavement.
do one tire on low grip ground (grass/water/etc), and one on pavement.
#16
The lifting the wheels and turning trick doesn't work. The 88s use a limited slip additive that senses different wheel speed, solidifies and makes the plates grab. I would definitely start with a drain and refill with the limited slip fluid (1 whole tube) then top to the correct level with synthetic or regular gear lube.
#17
Originally posted by rotaryrex7
The lifting the wheels and turning trick doesn't work. The 88s use a limited slip additive that senses different wheel speed, solidifies and makes the plates grab. I would definitely start with a drain and refill with the limited slip fluid (1 whole tube) then top to the correct level with synthetic or regular gear lube.
The lifting the wheels and turning trick doesn't work. The 88s use a limited slip additive that senses different wheel speed, solidifies and makes the plates grab. I would definitely start with a drain and refill with the limited slip fluid (1 whole tube) then top to the correct level with synthetic or regular gear lube.
#18
Originally posted by Rxmfn7
On my GXL there is a metal tag on the drain plug on the Diff. On others I have not seen it, its just a little tab and can be broken or taken off easily..
On my GXL there is a metal tag on the drain plug on the Diff. On others I have not seen it, its just a little tab and can be broken or taken off easily..
#19
So has anyone actually rebuilt one of the s4 diffs? Difficulty level? Where did you get the parts? Ive been cruising mazdatrix's site and have come up empty handed. They have new lsd's for like 1500 bucks... Ill pass in that case.
#20
Originally posted by dr0x
So has anyone actually rebuilt one of the s4 diffs? Difficulty level? Where did you get the parts? Ive been cruising mazdatrix's site and have come up empty handed. They have new lsd's for like 1500 bucks... Ill pass in that case.
So has anyone actually rebuilt one of the s4 diffs? Difficulty level? Where did you get the parts? Ive been cruising mazdatrix's site and have come up empty handed. They have new lsd's for like 1500 bucks... Ill pass in that case.
http://www.mazdasurplus.com/Mazda.htm
#21
SR Motorsports (www.srmotorsports.com) has MazdaSpeed LSDs for $799. Still a bit pricey, but much better than the torsens from mazdatrix.
#25
Yea, Mark is right: S4 uses clutch-type that wears out but is usually pretty reliable. the S5 has a Viscous LSD that uses snot that thickens up when it gets agitated. It only thickens up to join the 2 driven axles if one starts going faster than the other. I can understand if you can spin 1 wheel w/o the other turning on an Viscous. If you have a clutch type and they dont stay locked together, then your clutch pack is probably worn out.
Id just get a new Clutch diff and swap it in. Screw the viscous, i like mine to be lightneing quick. the Viscous is slower to react in a low-traction situation, like Drifting
A torsen is even better, but its purly mechanical. its also the same type as FD and Miata SE's use, they swap right into our diffs... but one guy was saying he tried a torsen on a road track. he blew his diff when he hit the the apex of the turn and his inside tire lost traction and came back down.
Id just get a new Clutch diff and swap it in. Screw the viscous, i like mine to be lightneing quick. the Viscous is slower to react in a low-traction situation, like Drifting
A torsen is even better, but its purly mechanical. its also the same type as FD and Miata SE's use, they swap right into our diffs... but one guy was saying he tried a torsen on a road track. he blew his diff when he hit the the apex of the turn and his inside tire lost traction and came back down.