LowFreq

I'm about to start my DIY Water Injection project and have a coupla questions for those who have done this before.
Where did you mount the water-pump?
Where did you source the reservoir?

YearsOfDecay

I'm going to be wathing this post... I know that water injection is the new Voodoo science for tuners...

HOWEVER, the original concept in WWII era fighter planes was water/methanol injection. Methanol to add some kick, water to cool the cylinders so the motor didn't melt. Has any body tried that???

What kind of jets are you using? pump? Control Device (haltech??)

I'm using a third gen window washer tank because of the long neck for my intercooler sprayers, i have it mounted up front behind the intercooler now, but i plan to move it cause its in the airway to the radiator. Made brackets and used the stock mounting rubbers.

YearsOfDecay

I'm going to be wathing this post... I know that water injection is the new Voodoo science for tuners...

HOWEVER, the original concept in WWII era fighter planes was water/methanol injection. Methanol to add some kick, water to cool the cylinders so the motor didn't melt. Has any body tried that???

What kind of jets are you using? pump? Control Device (haltech??)

I'm using a third gen window washer tank because of the long neck for my intercooler sprayers, i have it mounted up front behind the intercooler now, but i plan to move it cause its in the airway to the radiator. Made brackets and used the stock mounting rubbers.

Jaared

this first one has a parts list

http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html

http://www.dawesdevices.com/water.html

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0115/cms/article.html

LowFreq

I'm using the parts list found on http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html. I've got a Re-ammemiya nose so there's alot of space in there, I'm thinking of possibly mounting a tank of some sort there.

ZeroBanger

Good luck on your kit.

If you give me your injector sizes (total CC's of fuel) I can tell you what nozzles to order if you like. The nozzles listed on that site are probably going to drown out your car.

if you drive the car and notice hesitation at mid RPM you have too much water, the solution will be to get a smaller injector.

Also, the hobbs switch is not the best switch to get. Its expensive and the adjusting mechanism wears out. You will notice its made out of some really weak plastic. I got one at home that eventually wore out and is unusable. It took 9 months though.


Definately get an inline fuel filter. A 1.99 one is fine. Use it between the waterbottle and the pump. Make sure you have a kill switch in your car so if you dont want to run it, it doesnt run. Make sure you have an LED that lights up when it injects water.

use metal clamps on every NPT fitting.

My original kit was inspired from that website you quoted. since then I have improved my kits and the only parts my kits use that are on that site are the injector nozzels. I use different models/brands for everything else. If there is anything I can help you with I will, just let me know. I can help with water/fuel ratio, etc.

About the tank. Make sure its level or ABOVE the water pump. the pump is picky and if the tank is too high above it the pump will not be able prime and will not inject the water. Also when making your wiring harness get the kind of fuse that has 87 and 87, rather than 87 and 87A. the typical bosche relay has an 87A which is always open. if you get both with 87's you can put the pump on one and the solenoid on the other. When I had my wiring set up like that site by taping a wire from the water pump line to the solenoid the pump did not get enough power and would not inject water.

Silly but true.




BTW, if you want a boost switch for your kit I sell brand new switches with both a NO and NC contact. these are fully adjustable and awesome quality. I buy direct from the manufacture. I sell them for $21.00 shipped which is the best deal around. click on my link in my sig for more info or PM me and I'll send you a pic.

WAYNE88N/A

YearsOfDecay- You're close...I used to work on old Grumman G-1 turboprops that used water/meth...They only used it on hot days (above 95*F or so), or high altitude runways, and only on takeoff, never in flight. The methanol was there to prevent the water tanks from freezing at altitude, among other purposes, much like our antifreeze works in our rads. The extra "kick" was provided by basically "thickening" the thin air, or compressing the charge, if you will...Modern jets don't use it because somebody finally figured out variable vane 1st stage compressor vanes, to modulate the airflows based upon OAT and ambient baro pressures..

To make something like this effective on a car (for other than 1/4 mile racing) would require a huge tank of water (adding weight) and lots of pressure from a pump (loading the engine), I don't think people realize just how much water has to be injected over a period of time...

ZeroBanger

thats not a completly true statement. I run water injection daily and been doing it for 2 years. I have a 2 stage system. the first injector comes on at super low boost, the other comes on at 12 psi. A gallon container lasts me about 2 days. i run 2.25 gallons by using 2 different containers.

You can get a good angle at this pic:



and it looks normal after the panels are put on:



Everytime I put gas in the car, I fill up the watertank, its easy and its well worth it when you consider your intake temps are ambient.

b005td7

zero ^
have it ever have any failure ?
and is there a light or something tells you the water injection is on ?

ZeroBanger

when I first installed it on my car, I had some hoses pop off. Now I make sure the clamps are really on tight where they meet the pump/selenoid and injector.

that has not happen in 9 moths.

I had fuses blow initially as I didn't have the relay installed in the best location. That has been fixed.

I had my water bottle crack 3 times. I have since found a bottle that doesn't break. My shocks are so stiff that when I hit a bump it caused them to crack. I found the MMO bottle that I use does not crack, its pretty awesome.

lastly, clogged injectors do happen. I have a water filer which keeps the injector from clogging from the inside, BUT...after a period of time the injector gets clogged from the outside. Since its in the intake track, small debrise builds up and evfentually clogs. In a year I have had only 1 clog. If you take the injector out every 6 months to clean you can avoid this.

And yes, My kit comes with a LED that indicates that the system is running.

Wankel7

This is a water injection forum. The guy who leads it up really knows his stuff.
http://waterinjection.info/phpBB2/

James

RXTASY1

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...&threadid=9692
I have been using the Aquamist system for about 2 years also. Have boosted to 23 PSI on pump gas with it. Haven't had a engine blow up since I started using it!

Icemark

I have seen a couple now using the old zero temp start bottle or the 86 overflow coolant bottle for the water.

Both those mount insde the engine compartment however, but make routing of the lines much simpler.

LowFreq

Thanks for the info.
I already ordered both size nozzles on that website hoping that I'd be covering all bases. Do you think even the smaller nozzle would be too big? They are sized 6.32gph@40psi and 9.49gph@40psi.

ZeroBanger

both those are going to be WAY to big unless you have some serious mods on your car.

Keep in mind the pump is 60 psi. So your 6.32=7.72

6.32*SQRT(60/40)=7.72 gph

9.49*SQRT(60/40)=11.62 gph

Give me your fuel system, total injector size in CC's and I'll tell you what nozzels you need. FYI, those nozzels are too big for a stock FD.

LowFreq

Oh, and stock primaries, 720cc secondaries.

LowFreq

I'm running stock primaries, 720cc secondaries, 3rd gen fuel pump.
Do you resell kits? What size nozzles should I have gotten?

ZeroBanger

double post

ZeroBanger

I sell brandnew kits. I dont know what your primary's are. how many CC's are the primarys and how many injectors?

is it 2 primary at 550 CC and 2 secondary at 720 CC? Also how much boost do you run?

LowFreq

Yes, 2 550 cc primaries and 2 720 cc secondaries. Currently I am running 14 lbs of boost.

ZeroBanger

Are you using a dual stage or single stage set up?

If your using a single stage setup I would recommend using 1 nozzel near the intercooler exit piping. Your fuel CC's translate to 40.6 GPH.

you want to be from 10-20 pct water to fuel ratio. Too much water will cause your car to have massive hesistation. Too little will not protect it from detonation. I would recommend finding nozzles that put you in the 12-15 pct. Not much less, not much more. Have them come on from 8 to 10 psi. 12 pct would put you at 4.8 GPH injector. Look for an injector that is between 4.6 and 5.0 and you should be good.

LowFreq

Single stage for now, may upgrade later.
I'll look for ~a 4.8 nozzle. Thanks.

LowFreq

Seems like the next lower nozzle from mcmaster carr is 3.16 gph. Anyone know where I can get a nozzle between 4.6 and 5.0 gph?

ZeroBanger

You should be fine with the 3.16. The 3.16 ends up about 3.92 when you calculate 60 PSI pump. the 3.16 is calculated at 40 psi.

So your total fuel was about 40 GPH, but you have to look at the fact that you are not likely to be at 100 pct duty cycle. So if you are at 80 pct, thats 32 GPH, a 3.92 nozzle size is perfect.

If you want it to be more exact you can do a dual stage system. The first nozzel can have the 3.92 and the 2nd can be a .77 nozzel that they have.

neptuneRX

I think tufoball had his own little kit for this, might want to PM him