DISASTER Sub frame bolt broken
03-06-06 | 03:52 PM
#26
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6
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From: Medicine Hat, AB
I don't have my camera working, but imagine this: the 4 bolts that hold the subframe to the car, the front drivers side bolt, sheared off at the nut. So as it sits, it's a stud thats missing about an inch off of the bottom. I'll try and have my camera handy for when we go and get the bolt off the parts car and how we manage to get it onto the broken car.
03-06-06 | 05:47 PM
#28
DONT FEED THE NOOBS
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: land of slow hondas .... TULSA, OK
damn i love soap operas.. "as the 5 foot breaker bar turns" ...... grabs the goobers and enjoys the show.. "but ryan i looove you how could you do this to me" muhahaha.. i dont understand why you people need a picture... it could only be 4 studs.
Last edited by gxlbiscuit; 03-06-06 at 05:52 PM.
03-06-06 | 06:36 PM
#29
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6
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From: Medicine Hat, AB
Originally Posted by gxlbiscuit
damn i love soap operas.. "as the 5 foot breaker bar turns" ...... grabs the goobers and enjoys the show.. "but ryan i looove you how could you do this to me" muhahaha.. i dont understand why you people need a picture... it could only be 4 studs.
03-06-06 | 09:15 PM
#30
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 37
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From: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
Picture 1 shows the bolt at the very top, shows a little more of the taper, its missing about an inch off the bottom
Picture 2 is just a different angle but it also shows where its attached to the body.
Picture 3 is the inside of the body. You cant see the top of the bolt because its covered by sheet metal. My camera also multiplys the dirty/rusty looking factor by 100. Its not to to bad for rust (on the drivers side)
EDIT: Picture 1 and 2 were taken from inside the rear driver side wheel well looking towards the front of the car. This is the front bolt on the driver side.
Last edited by schurchill39; 03-06-06 at 09:21 PM.
03-06-06 | 11:31 PM
#31
OH man just get a jack and jack the bolt through the CAR!!!! haha oh I dont know how that's coming out. Since there's a bunch of the bolt left to play with try heating it up near the top and hit the bottom with a hammer. Have a friend with huge arms hit it with a hammer. OH and from now on use some penetrating oil before doing the job. Let it set for awhile and the bolts will come off easy.
03-07-06 | 12:17 AM
#33
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 37
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From: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
No you cant see the top of it, its under sheet metal, thats why were going to have to drill it out or figure out where exactly it is under the sheet metal and get it out from the top... I think we are just going to cut that hole section out of the parts car tomorrow and use that as the test subject so we know where everything is situated and how its attached etc.
Last edited by schurchill39; 03-07-06 at 12:20 AM.
03-09-06 | 02:28 AM
#35
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 37
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From: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
WE GOT ER DONE! Now its just doing the last little stuff to finish up the LSD swap and we are good to go. I think i will write a write up with pictures (I took my fair share) tomorrow night just incase any one is ever in my situation. All i can say is thank god for a parts car, we masacared that thing to learn how not to screw my good car up. All around team effort and that thing went easy as pie.
12-06-16 | 10:32 AM
#36
WE GOT ER DONE! Now its just doing the last little stuff to finish up the LSD swap and we are good to go. I think i will write a write up with pictures (I took my fair share) tomorrow night just incase any one is ever in my situation. All i can say is thank god for a parts car, we masacared that thing to learn how not to screw my good car up. All around team effort and that thing went easy as pie.
Has this happened to anyone before? Did you cut it out from the bottom or the top?
nevermimd, found it here:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...ctures-518052/
Last edited by fidelity101; 12-06-16 at 10:50 AM.
12-06-16 | 11:00 AM
#37
Penis Healthy
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From: █▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄██▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄█
This is what we are planing on doing (on top of beating my friend with that fricken braker bar):
Cut the bolt off as close to the body as possible then drill it out from the bottom starting with a small bit then going bigger until we have drilled out the circumforance of the bolt. This way there will just be a hole inside the body so we dont have to cut and weld major parts of the body so it still has most of its structural integrity. Then we will slide either a new bolt from mazda or a bolt from the parts car in through the top, reinforcing it around the top (welding/welding plates) so its just as strong as the rest. Then reinstall the sub frame and tighten it all down and hope like hell my LSD is installed properly.
Does this sound like a good plan (to the people who actually know what is going on here)? Although this sounds more then sturdy enough any more ideas to reinforce it? I will probably weld a plate over top of it once its in and I will do the same to the other side so its equal, reinforce it all.
Cut the bolt off as close to the body as possible then drill it out from the bottom starting with a small bit then going bigger until we have drilled out the circumforance of the bolt. This way there will just be a hole inside the body so we dont have to cut and weld major parts of the body so it still has most of its structural integrity. Then we will slide either a new bolt from mazda or a bolt from the parts car in through the top, reinforcing it around the top (welding/welding plates) so its just as strong as the rest. Then reinstall the sub frame and tighten it all down and hope like hell my LSD is installed properly.
Does this sound like a good plan (to the people who actually know what is going on here)? Although this sounds more then sturdy enough any more ideas to reinforce it? I will probably weld a plate over top of it once its in and I will do the same to the other side so its equal, reinforce it all.
