Difficulties replacing engine mounts?
#1
Difficulties replacing engine mounts?
I'm getting some Mazdaspeed mounts by UPS delivered tommorow and I'm looking for installation tips. I don't have an engine hoist, the motor is currently in the car and I don't plan on removing it to do the job. I figure I can loosen the bolts on both sides and lift one side at a time but where should I lift for the driver's side mount? Would it be ok to use the tranny or is there a better place to go from?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 659
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From: Delaware
I've never installed motor mounts on an FC, but I did them on a SRT-4 once (its prolly a lot different lol). Anyway we just put a jack (not a tire jack that comes with the car, like a shop jack thats long and rolls around) on the oil pan just enough that it would hold it (not push it up) and then undid the stock mounts and replaced them with new ones. It was a top mount and a mount next to the passenger side wheel well. Good luck!
#3
I had thought about using the oil pan, but I don't want to dent it if it isn't strong enough to support the weight. I think I might need to actually get the motor to move upward a little though. I'm sure someone out there has done it.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 659
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From: Delaware
Well if you do one at a time, I think you will be ok. The new mounts use the same mounting locations as stock, correct? The only reason we used the jack was just as extra support, but there really was no weight on the oil pan (the drivers side mount was holding it). Im sure someone who has done it on an FC will post though. Good luck!
#5
I have done It as of recently. I used the Oil Pan due to It being convenient ant It was raised so little to allow clearance. Just be sure to lay a bundle of rags down on top of the jack If you are In any way particular like me who doesn't like to have a scratched/scored Oil Pan.
#7
Use a 2X4 or other peice of wood on the oil pan to spread out the pressure. Make SURE you do the drivers side mount first, or you will want to kill yourself later. Don't jack it to high, just enough .. do not tighten either one until you have both installed and the almost all the load off the jack.
It's not that hard, but it's a pain in the nuts.
-Robert
It's not that hard, but it's a pain in the nuts.
-Robert
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#9
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
The oil pan is pretty thick (it's made of 2MM steel), so you probably won't damage it. HOWEVER, I always jack at the transmission to be safe. As mentioned, do the drivers side mount first. Leave it loose, then go and replace the passenger side. Now lower the engine back down and tighten both. It's not really hard at all...certainly easier then replacing the oil pan (major PITA).
#12
There's a bump-like dot on the outside of the cup shaped side of the mount itself. Yes, it goes outward and fits into a groove, with the cup part sitting on the frame. I tried them whole mount upside-down and they fit attrociously that way.
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