rickou

hi there !

i'm comming back after a long time.
Because my FC TII doen't start, i have changed all vaccums tubes, gasket, turbo rebuild, water hoses, injectors gaskets, spark plugs, spark wires, gaz filter, air filter, some valves...
then this week end, i try to start it without pressing gaz pedal.. nothing..
After this, i decide to crank more time.... after long cranking time, (about 1 minute non stop playing with gaz pedal), i get some erratics firing, then continu to crank and finaly it start...with big big smoke on exhaust..
since this first difficult start.. it start very quickly and very fine...all the time !
even after sleeping outside on fresh night, at morning very good and fast start !

so now it start, the engine speed go to about 3k RPM, then after some seconds climb to about 2k, then when water temp rise, RPM go to "Idle"..
in fact, idle bouce between 1000 and 1500 RPM..
i have check all vaccums..
i have try 2 methods to set TPS (when engine hot).. LED method to get 1 LED on, this give TPS set to 1170 Ohms.
i have try to set the TPS using ohmmeter to 1kohms, then with LEDs i give 2 LEDs On.
but nothing change between the 2 setups.

i have try to unconnect the water temp sensor.. on first start, i get a stable 1000 RPM idle..but after some stop / start, boucing again...
when idle was stable i have try to change the setting of idle screw, but even if i full close it, RPM stay at 1k.. if i open it, RPM rise..if i continu to open, idle bouncing start..

i have check the throttle, set it to full close when engine is hot.
next start, i get a stable 800RPM Idle, but, after somme play with gaz pedal, Idle rise to 1k and bounce...

someone have a good view of vaccum connection on the throttle body ? i have 3 vaccum tube on one side (fan side) and on other side 3 small tube and 1 bigger (clutch side)
do you know exactly where goes all theses vaccums ?

if i clamp all vaccums, is the engine start ?

thank for your help !!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

If it idles smoothly at 2-3k, but bounces when it drops to "warm idle" (1000-1500), the TPS is either still incorrectly set or just plain bad. Test the resistance as you press in the plunger to be sure there are no dead spots, and check that the "A" terminal on the TPS is at 1.0 volts when the car is warmed up (if this is an S4).

Replacing the TPS may be in order if it just will not set properly.

rickou

ok, mine is S5, 2-3k idle is stable, but when it drop to 1000-1500 bouncing idle (when warn), if i press the gaz pedal to make RPM at 3k, then it bounce again but around 3k..

i'll try to check the TPS voltage at EGI tomorrow.

i have seen other strange things, when the water thermosensor is connected, BAC valve vibrate (Duty cycle is not fix, even if engine is not running), if i disconnect the water thermosensor, then BAC vibrate but very lesser. (whatever the water temperature)

other strange things, Boost control solenoid make permanent clic-clic...when ignition on (engine not running), i have a movie to heard that.
Movie