ok its kind of hard to explain so I drew a diagram of what I did. Ok I use to have resistors wired in at the ecu. the injectors turned out to be high impedance injectors so I took the resistors out and put in a wire where the resisters where. Well I found out that the reason the injectors where high impedance was because they where not 890cc injectors but small 330cc injectors. So I got some 890cc injectors and put them in and everything worked fine so then I went to go put back in the resistors yesterday but I made a stupid mistake because I was talking to my sister and trying to watch my daughter at the same time (that was retarded) Anyways I took out both pieces of wire at the same time so now I don't know where the wire from the harness goes to what wire at the ecu. If any of you guys could tell me a good way to find out what the best way is to find out what wire goes where I would be forever greatfull Well here is the picture so You can maybe tell what I did. Of course it looks easy in the diagram to know which is which but it's not easy in the car. Thanks for any help.

 

oh well I guess I'll just wire up the resistors and find out

 

Not quite understanding your question. Are you asking where the resistors go?? or where the wires go??

 

Dude, aren't the wires color-coded? I have to guess NO at this point, lol...

If you know which pins the ECU-side wires are supposed to go to (in other words, what the ECU does with the pin the wire is on), just grab a meter and backtrack the wiring (the other pieces) to its termination...

I KNEW you'd have another thread going sooner or later

 

lol, Nevermind I think I guessed right and everything is working great One more question though. Damnit, being a rotar head has turned me into an **** bastard, lol. Durring the cooler winter days (about 50-70*) I never saw coolant temps over about a quarter of the way up the guage, now durring the summer (95-100*) I'm seeing the temp gauge right below 1/2 the way up, is this ok? Also my oil temps are getting rather high (220-225). I just put the under shroud back on and will be checking the temps but I just went for a test drive and saw that sure enough the coolant temps are still the same. I'll check my oil temps when I drive for a while. I also have on order one of those top peices that go ontop of the radiator to direct air into the rad. Hopefully this will help me out.

 

Yep, my gauge hits close to 1/2 after about 30 miles of freeway speeds (70+) when it's over 90*F out. Just below 1/2 during cruise, and will hit 1/2 when I have to kick her in to pass an idiot...

And that's with no cooling fan on whatsoever...

Quit worrying

 

lol, yeah I need to quit that ****, Do you know your oil temps? THanks for the info though that is a big relief!! oops didn't mean to spell rotor wrong in the post above, lol

 

Negatory on the oil temps- I've never seen the need to monitor them, the lubrication system on these cars is pretty foolproof IMO. Stock cars, anyway...

Maybe I'd be worried about temps if I boosted the **** out of her and put 890's in the secondary positions and...

Oh wait, that's you

 

lol, ahhhh yes that is me I wouldn't have it any other way. Someone said the reason why people buy, maintane, build, work on, pay for rx7's is because they love to tinker and that they are never satisfied.........I believe that So that being said I'm thinking about adding one more gauge, lol. what do you think of this http://www.snyper.net/RX-7/Waterjet/index.htm, if you scroll down about 3/4 of the way at the Solid S4 Filler Neck Cap, what do you think? I would normally just get something like this but the only thing is if you put the sender in that location it won't be after the tstat so the temp readings would't be accurate, correct?

 

What the heck are you talking about now? It sounds like water temp now, weren't you talking about oil temps earlier? You've confused me again, lol...

For a good oil temp location, just get the adapter plate for the filter tower that already has taps for senders & such. Mazdatrix has 'em, I know. This location would be the first spot once the oil's left the cooler...

Now what are you trying to show me? An oil filler tube cap? Jeeze, you just don't quit on the car parts, do you?

 

Bad idea. For one, how the heck will you ever get teh system full? For 2, this wouldnt be the best location, because it wouldn't show a stuck or closed thermostat in that event. The best location is somewhere before the thermostat, I prefer right beside the stocker personally.

IF you want a "cheater" method for putting a sending unit in the waterpump housing, check this out. Where the airpump bracket bolts to the WPH are 3 bolt holes. IF you're running no airpump then great, if you are, then you'll have to modify your bracket...2 bolts are sufficient to hold it. The hole closest to the waterpump happens to be located right under the thermostat, and is a clear pathway. Drill through that hole and re-tap it for the sending unit you're using. Perfect location, out of the way, and doesnt even require removal of the WP or WP housing (as a little metal shavings in the coolant system won't affect anything).

 

sorry to confuse you, lol. I have that oil adapter I just don't have a true read out on the water temp and the stock temp guage is not all that great from what I've heard so I would like to monitor it better. SOrry for the confusing last post.

oh man that is awesome! I appreciate that help! you even answered the questions I had about the metal shavings! I have no water pump so this should work out perfect! Again thank you very much! You also answered the same questions I had about that adapter. I was wondering how you would fill the coolant all the way without the top cap.