Does anyone know where to get these set screws for the steering rack tie rods? Or thread spec and length of them?

I cannot get them out, it's either stripped or out of the 5 sets of allen keys i have they didn't include the 1.75 mm one...ha Perhaps I am missing something, but I assume these set screws are keeping the tie rod ends from becoming loose and need to be removed to get the ends off.

Hopefully I can get it out with an easyout if I can find one small enough, I don't want to drill them out, but I will need to replace them and will probably damage them on the way out. So if someone knows, thanks ahead of time.

 

Hmm I can point you to someone who might know (impulsivechip, but not likely), sorry I can't help directly!

 

thanks. there seems to be no way to get to them from the other side push them out

 

Those aren't set screws, they're spring pins. And yes, they're a bitch to get out. Luckily you only need to remove the driver's side tie rod to depower the rack.

The ones in my rack refused to come out through any normal means, so I ended up drilling straight through from the hole on the other side. I *really* don't recommend this approach.

You should be able to find replacement spring pins at a good auto parts store or fastener place (Fastenal, Tacoma Screw, etc.).

-chris

 

Actually, you don't need to remove the spring pin. It will back out when you remove the tie rod. It does not extend into the thread of the inner ball joint and it will back itself out when you unscrew the inner ball joint. You may find this hard to believe ... but it is true.

Incidentally, if you are intending to depower your rack, you should weld up the torsion bar. If you don't you will have ±5° of spring in your steering input shaft. Most instructions for depowering racks ignore this essential step if your intention is the most direct possible steering feel.

 

what does weld up the torsion bar mean? i have a depowered the rack in my s5 t-ii. also by doing this you wear the entire steering linkage into the rack much faster. this is becasue the linkage was only meant to transmit steering input not the force required to move a depowered rack at low speeds

 

Can you elaborate on 'welding the torsion bar'?

 

This is sometimes referred to as welding the quill. The input to a power steering rack has a torsion bar that twists to open the valves which direct fluid to the piston which assists your steering. When the fluid is flowing, you don't notice because fluid pressure always works to remove the twist. When you depower the rack, you have to overcome the twist before you actually start moving the rack which results in a springy feel and excessive play in the steering. Unless of course you weld it up.

Pictures are from an S5 rack
1) the unwelded quill
2) the welded quill
3) the fittings shaved and welded up (optional but a nice touch)
4) the depowered rack

Incidentally, if you remove the pump, bracket and drive pulley on an S5 the weight saving is 22 lbs. Parking is a bit of a workout but steering effort for normal driving or at the track is not excessive and feedback from the road is improved. I consider it worthwhile for a track car. This is with the 15:1 rack on a TII.

 

Very nice beads on the quill

 

If you're going that far, why not try yo put a non PS rack end on it so there's no PS piston bulge? Does anyone know if that's even possible?