Well I ordered a DEI exhaust heat wrap kit from www.summitracing.com for about around $75 shipped. It came with 2 50ft rolls of 2 inch wrap, a bunch of metal locking straps, and a can of 1500*F aluminum colored silicon paint.





Anyways, I removed the dp and pulled the o2 sensor. Proceeded to sand down and clean off the dp and then prepped it for paint with primer. Put 2 coats of gloss black 500*F engine paint to protect from rust when condensation absorbs into the wrap. I have heard of dps become rusted as hell because of heatwrapping absorbing water so I took this precaution.

Next step was wrapping the dp. Took some time as I tried to make it as tight as possible and made sure to overlap. Cut out small sections to get around the bung for the o2 sensor. Wrapped about 3/4 of the dp using about 25ft (estimate, I didnt measure). Used one of the large locking metal locking straps at the end to hold it all together.

Finally, I put about 2 coats of the 1500*F aluminum silicon paint and I hung it up waiting for it to dry. I must say that that silicon paint is ******* badass.Looks like very high quality stuff and is tacky enough to bond to the heat wrap.



I'll post my reactions and review of this stuff in terms of lowering engine bay temps, changes in the spool of the turbo, and hp gains if any so keep posted.

For anybody who wants to buy this stuff you dont need to buy the kit as youll have way too much if you only plan to wrap the dp but I may consider doing my IC pipes as well. DEI offers these in black wrap and black spray as well.

 

Looks damned good!

 

why not do the entire exhust system if you have enough left over?

 

Man, I used that stuff too....minus the paint. It smokes like nuts when you first run it. But I think it is a good idea to use it.

Keep those exhaust gasses nice and hot and moving

James

 

Right on!

What material is the wrap?

(looks like a heavy duty wrap you'd use for a sprained ankle or something, lol)

 

This was a bad idea. That will burn off the first time you start the car; it will have accomplished nothing for rust protection.
The exhaust sees over 500* F at idle.

 

I dont feel its needed. It wouldnt be very fun wrapping it all either.

I bet it'll smoke even more than yours with the silicone paint! The can says the paint needs 500*F to cure... how hot does the exhaust get? I dont feel like putting it in the oven and it wouldnt fit anyways.

 

I purchased the same kit...but I was unhappy with the stainless zip tie things. How did you pull yours tight? I couldn't seem to get satisfactorly and ended up putting clamps on instead.

 

Well over 1000 fahrenheit.

 

A pair of pliars to hold the locking mechanism and I also shoved an extra piece of folded wrap under the last wrap. It is still a little loose, I'll probably just use a regular hoseclamp as well.

Awesome. I'll just let the exhaust heat cure the silicone coating.

 

If the primer was a bad idea, why not use a first coat of the silicone paint as your primer, then the wrap, then the silicone paint again? Then it would all be able to handle the heat.

I've been thinking about doing this, too, but I had been stearnly warned about rust destroying the DP.

 

In racing conditions, the exhaust will get up over 1400F

 

I've been looking at the exact same stuff. I'm wondering how long it's going to take the tape to get up to 500F to cure the paint? Can't wait to hear your remarks on it.

 

I should have but we all wish we did one thing differently in hindsight. I dont think I'll have a problem with rush with the several layers up paints and also I wrapped the heatwrap as tight as possible so there wouldnt be any air pockets. I think the silicone paint will help seal the wrap from absorbing alot of condensation again.

 

Product Review

Heat: Engine bay is just as hot as before.

Power: No real noticeable increase in power

Turbo spool: Slightly noticeably quicker.

Idle: Quieter!

Overall pretty satisfied with the product with the quicker spool and quieter idle. I was hoping for lower engine bay temps but oh well, maybe I'll get a turbo jacket or something.

 

Soooo no comments or anything?

 

yeah, what is the heatwrap made out of?

 

Header wrap is a bad idea. Causes metal fatigue fairly quickly. Use a ceramic coating instead.

 

intresting

 

It is some type of cloth material. I cant say what it's made of but its similar to woven fibers.

I'm not really worried about the dp cracking. If it does, I'll just have it fixed. Thanks for the advice but if I wanted to have it ceramic coated I would have. I know it works just that I didnt want to go down that route at this time.

 

I wan to get a Turbo Blanket, and wrap my turbo manifold, and my dp, my guess is that the engine bay temps will be lower after all of that. all I know is after some hard driving and sitting iddling in the parking lot (for turbo's puposes not water cooled). and then opening the hood to check a few things when I put my hand on the strut tower bar above my turbo she is VERY WARM almost to warm to keep my hand on... but not hot enough to burn... my guess is after turbo blanket, manifold and DP wrap it should be conciderably less Hot.

 

Pretty much everything in my engine bay after a normal drive is too hot to touch and you can burn yourself. I think the turbo jacket/blanket is a good idea as I said I may consider getting one above. Not sure how one would wrap the manifold though and I'd be more worried about the manifold being more prone to cracking. The best thing would probably be a vented hood in the future.

 

do you have the stock cast turbo manifold or aftermarket tubular?

 

wrapping the exhaust manifold will be alot more beneficial if ur purpose is to increase spool and decrease temps closer to the engine...

as for cracks.. i think aftermarket tubular would be much more prone to cracking then the stock "shorty" heavy duty cast turbo manifold...

and EVEN if it cracks (which will take forever) it's cheap as hell to replace.. and the pro's of the wrap probably outweigh the cons

 

cracking is due to quick changes in temperatures, that is the metal does not cool uniformly thus causing a crack. metal does not crack because it gets too hot, it is the cooling process that makes it crack... I my opinion if the manifold is uniformly wraped and done properly and made of Stainless stell there are fewer risks of having it crack because you are "sheilding" it from anything cold whether it air or water than can cool one portion of it faster than any other part which is what causes cracking. another result will be that the manifold will cool much slower actually reducing that chances of cracking. Now if someone has anything to disprove my theory I would be happy to hear it.
Here is a picture of a Panspeed SS tubular manifold it would do well to reduce engine bay temps if it were wraped.