Death by rx7
10-17-10, 10:33 AM
#1
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Death by rx7
Alright guys...
So yesterday my low coolant light came on accompanied by the most god awful buzzer to grace this planet.
I in fact, do NOT have coolant so I want this to go away...
Where is this sensor located so I can check the connection?
Is there any way to disable the buzzer completely?
Help me out before I set this car on fire!
So yesterday my low coolant light came on accompanied by the most god awful buzzer to grace this planet.
I in fact, do NOT have coolant so I want this to go away...
Where is this sensor located so I can check the connection?
Is there any way to disable the buzzer completely?
Help me out before I set this car on fire!
10-17-10, 10:49 AM
#3
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The engine can only operate for a couple of minutes with no coolant. After that you will have 200 lb of scrap metal under your hood where your engine used to be.
10-17-10, 11:11 AM
#4
Alright guys...
So yesterday my low coolant light came on accompanied by the most god awful buzzer to grace this planet.
I in fact, do NOT have coolant so I want this to go away...
Where is this sensor located so I can check the connection?
Is there any way to disable the buzzer completely?
Help me out before I set this car on fire!
So yesterday my low coolant light came on accompanied by the most god awful buzzer to grace this planet.
I in fact, do NOT have coolant so I want this to go away...
Where is this sensor located so I can check the connection?
Is there any way to disable the buzzer completely?
Help me out before I set this car on fire!
Bypass the sender and ground the wire to disable the buzzer.
10-17-10, 11:56 AM
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Well if you want to go against the fray you can put shitty beer in place of the coolant or possibly even just take the radiator out (its useless weight anyway)
EDIT: You could have the 1st air cooled rotary rx.
EDIT: You could have the 1st air cooled rotary rx.
10-17-10, 12:06 PM
#7
Just don't drive the car and you won't have that annoying buzzing noise. But seriously it's there to keep people from destroying their engine and getting a $3,000 rebuild because they don't feel like going to the store and buying some coolant. If only it was made in an era of better technology, it should be keyed into various phrases like "shut the buzzer off" by voice or internet posts at which point an old lady with a bad accent and minimum wage gets sent to your house to slap you a few times and leave. Even if it didn't work the forum posts that followed would be hilarious.
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10-17-10, 08:30 PM
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hahaha.
This thread was a rushed spree on my phone before work.
I obviously meant that I do not have LOW coolant, the level stays well above the low, and if anything above the high level mark.
Oh, by the way, I don't need oil either, right? typo FTL.
This thread was a rushed spree on my phone before work.
I obviously meant that I do not have LOW coolant, the level stays well above the low, and if anything above the high level mark.
Oh, by the way, I don't need oil either, right? typo FTL.
10-17-10, 08:57 PM
#15
Thread title is deceiving. Why do you not want coolant? Your car will not last. Grab something and fill the radiator with water if you are in a climate above freezing. Beer bottles on the side of the road and pond water can be used in a pinch. (I had a crack in radiator on one of my old cars while out once)
10-17-10, 09:08 PM
#17
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check the coolant level sensor.That is the one Wire sensor on the rad at the Top.
If that wire is Broken or disconnected,your Buzzer will go Off.
NOW,If everything is fine and you suspect a Bad sensor,then you can "temporarily" ground the Wire From the harness to the Frame of the car
I want to Stress that you should NOT be running without this Sensor for an Extended period of Time,as the 'warning Indicator" would be Inoperative..IF the Car's cooling system DOES encounter a problem and the sensor is grounded,then it could Cost you an Engine.
If that wire is Broken or disconnected,your Buzzer will go Off.
NOW,If everything is fine and you suspect a Bad sensor,then you can "temporarily" ground the Wire From the harness to the Frame of the car
I want to Stress that you should NOT be running without this Sensor for an Extended period of Time,as the 'warning Indicator" would be Inoperative..IF the Car's cooling system DOES encounter a problem and the sensor is grounded,then it could Cost you an Engine.
10-17-10, 09:11 PM
#18
Problems in the system can sometimes prevent coolant from going from the reservoir to the radiator. Try adding some directly through the cap near the coolant hoses and see if that solves it. If so you need to find the clog in the hose coming from the reservoir or pinhole leak in the system. If not then there may be bubbles in the system. A lisle funnel (google / search) would fix that, or squeezing the hose repeatedly while the cap is on to get the air to move to the top, and then adding coolant is a slower and less reliable method to use in the mean time. If both those fails the buzzer sensor on top of the radiator (with a wire coming out) may be bad or disconnected. Pretty simple to replace. Regardless of the reason the buzzer is there to save your engine. Never ever bypass it. Find out what's wrong and fix it instead. Even if it is the buzzer you really need that thing.
As for the tangent on what to fill it with: The manual says 50:50 water:antifreeze but anything from 30%-70% is fine. So tap water, pure antifreeze or other liquids are fine in emergencies. But ideally in the long run you'd use distilled water + antifreeze to prevent sediment buildup over the years.
As for the tangent on what to fill it with: The manual says 50:50 water:antifreeze but anything from 30%-70% is fine. So tap water, pure antifreeze or other liquids are fine in emergencies. But ideally in the long run you'd use distilled water + antifreeze to prevent sediment buildup over the years.
10-18-10, 10:16 AM
#19
It sounds like you're just filling the overflow bottle in front of the radiator right by the passenger headlight.
What you should do is (WHEN THE CAR IS COLD!):
-open the radiator caps on the rad & on the thermostat neck
-turn the ign to ON (don't start the car), and move the temperature slider all the way to hot.
-fill the one on the radiator with coolant/deionized water, let it settle, top it up, and close that radiator cap.
-Open the vent screw in the bend where the hose from the thermo neck attaches to the radiator.
-Fill the thermostat neck opening with coolant/deionized water until it starts coming out that vent hole that you just opened. Plug that vent hole back up (be careful, not too tight, it is threading into plastic & you don't want to strip it!)
-continue to fill that thermostat neck up until its full.
-Start the car, and let it run until warm. The coolant level may drop a little, just fill it up again. A funnel comes in very handy, or just stop the engine, fill, and restart.
-Check for obvious leaks around hoses, or a constant flow of coolant to the overflow bottle (with the thermo neck cap off, there shouldn't be any)
-Once its warm & the thermostat is opening, check for bubbles coming up into the thermostat neck opening. There shouldn't be any, but if there are its an indication that you have a leak somewhere, or a coolant seal in the engine is going bad or has gone bad.
-top it off, put on the cap, and check the level in the overflow chamber.
-Shut off the car and wait for it to cool; it should pull coolant back from the overflow bottle, but you may need to add some to that upper thermostat neck.
As a note, some bubbles early on may just be air pockets escaping too, you may need to run the engine til warm, stop it, & top it up once cold a few times before you get all the air pockets out.
What you should do is (WHEN THE CAR IS COLD!):
-open the radiator caps on the rad & on the thermostat neck
-turn the ign to ON (don't start the car), and move the temperature slider all the way to hot.
-fill the one on the radiator with coolant/deionized water, let it settle, top it up, and close that radiator cap.
-Open the vent screw in the bend where the hose from the thermo neck attaches to the radiator.
-Fill the thermostat neck opening with coolant/deionized water until it starts coming out that vent hole that you just opened. Plug that vent hole back up (be careful, not too tight, it is threading into plastic & you don't want to strip it!)
-continue to fill that thermostat neck up until its full.
-Start the car, and let it run until warm. The coolant level may drop a little, just fill it up again. A funnel comes in very handy, or just stop the engine, fill, and restart.
-Check for obvious leaks around hoses, or a constant flow of coolant to the overflow bottle (with the thermo neck cap off, there shouldn't be any)
-Once its warm & the thermostat is opening, check for bubbles coming up into the thermostat neck opening. There shouldn't be any, but if there are its an indication that you have a leak somewhere, or a coolant seal in the engine is going bad or has gone bad.
-top it off, put on the cap, and check the level in the overflow chamber.
-Shut off the car and wait for it to cool; it should pull coolant back from the overflow bottle, but you may need to add some to that upper thermostat neck.
As a note, some bubbles early on may just be air pockets escaping too, you may need to run the engine til warm, stop it, & top it up once cold a few times before you get all the air pockets out.
