Okay, im tired of messing with my auxillary ports. First there stuck open, now they get stuck closed. I know most people say wiring them open kills acceleration, so what if i wired them half way? Wouldnt this put me right in the middle, and bought some pineapple racing sleeve inserts, would this give me okay top end without losing to much acceleration? Im just tired of messing with these things but i dont want to wire them open and lose all that acceleration.

 

Take the lower manifold off, note the angle of the pins inside the sleeves so that you can put them back in correctly oriented, remove sleeves.... clean the sleeves & the port holes. Check the arms in the lower manifold that rotate the sleeves for smooth rotation - these get gunked up easily - if they stick you need to free them with some penetrating cleaner and work them back & forth until they are freely moving. Put back together. Don't forget to use some gasket sealer on the lower manifold to block.

Ramses666

 

Either fix it or wire em open. It doesn't kill your acceleration.

 

got the rear one working, but the front is stuck halfway, my idle is horrible now lol, but its a start

 

Half open would have the same result as wiring them open.

Either wire them open (thus making you car slower) or suck it up and remove the lower intake to clean them properly.

 

Taking those manifolds off sucks. Make sure you label EVERYTHING or at least take some snapshots with a digicam before you go an pull it. The FSM helps for the vacuum lines.

 

Just get it over with.... stop whining & fix your car. Waaahhhh I have to do something... WTF is that all about. Fix it. why else post up here?

Ramses666

 

Thanks i wasnt sure if half open would make a difference or be just like all the way open.I am gonna fix it, i just wasnt looking forward to taking everything apart, its my daily driver and i have to get it all done in one day
No need to be such a dick, i asked a question that you didnt even attempt to answer or tell me why its a bad or good idea, im trying to learn thats what thats all about, you just went on about the right way to fix it, which i didnt ask, this reply was just as pointless as your claiming my thread to be, help or leave me alone, now like most people do when they start a thread, im going back and making an update on my progress. Chill the f out. And i have done all the work to my car since i bought it, its not a laziness issue, its i need to go to work i dont have time issue cause i need something to drive, someone close the thread im done with it if im just gonna get stuff like this

 

ok... Well I can see you are properly motivated. I apologize for my harsh words. However, the original post stands for what it is.

You can try & fix your problem without removing your lower manifold by spraying penetrating lubricant/cleaner such as PB Blaster and working the action back & forth.

The more critical question would be do you have the proper amount of back-pressure at the appropriate RPM's to activate your ports? This is the problem you will have to deal with. How can I activate my ports when they should be? How can I know its working? Why the !#@$ did Mazda stick me with this problem? It's truly maddenning.

I've been there & done that & had to invent my own solution. Search my posts & you will see. It was not easy or cheap, but I got what I wanted. It is possible but difficult. Sorry the factory setup sux.

Ramses666

 

Thanks were cool, i have pressure being routed from my smog pump through a fish tank valve lol, my only problem is that the hose keeps burning off at the end that plugs on the nipple buy the rear actuator, i didnt realize it had done this until way down the road and the damage was done, i got the rear port working with a home made tool, i took a metal rod the same diameter as the rod that turns it and cut a groove in one end so it would grab the port to turn it and the other end i put flat spots so i could turn it with a wrench, i sprayed some wd-40 into the port through the hole the actuator rod came out of and then started turning it back and forth with my homemade tool and bingo, but for the front it looks like im gonna have to take off the smog pump to get at it with my new tool, ill take a pic of it and post the tool tomorrow maybe some one else could benefit from this.

 

Well good... it seems like you are strongly motivated. Keep at it. You are deaaling with the most popular problem.

If you can achieve proper port motion without removing the LIM(lower intake manifold) then you are one step closer to making it work correctly. Finding a way to make it work correctly at the correct rpm is another matter. There are several ways to do this.

I should tell you that an s4 has a difficult path to follow. S4 works from exhaust back-pressure where as an s5 works from the factory air pump. When changing the exhaust to something better you shoot yourself in the foot so to speak. It just doesn't work very well. Most guys just go turbo and forget about it.

Ramses666

 

i have silicone hoses and a 2 way fish tank air valve, the valve is stuck in the hose coming off the back of the smog pump, since this works harder at higher rpm. one valve i left open vented to the engine bay, and the hose connected to the other, i revved the car up to about 3700 rpm and adjusted the valve with the hose till the port opens, i got the directions off the net somewhere, i want to replace everything with the hardware store stuff like the sticky on here eventually, yeah i have racing beat headers, i high flow cat and a borla cat back

 

The first pic is the whole thing (yes im missing half of my left index finger) The second is the groove that grips the port, and the third is where its flat on the other end so i can turn it with a wrench