Dead Engine, Pissed Owner
#1
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Dead Engine, Pissed Owner
Realistically...
You just rebuilt a S5 N/A engine; 100 miles after the rebuild, the front iron cracks, spewing oil all over the engine compartment. The block is streetported, so throwing a new front iron on isn't an option. What would you do?
I don't want to go through the hassle of a TII conversion, but if it's worth the cost, might. Anyone have any other ideas?
You just rebuilt a S5 N/A engine; 100 miles after the rebuild, the front iron cracks, spewing oil all over the engine compartment. The block is streetported, so throwing a new front iron on isn't an option. What would you do?
I don't want to go through the hassle of a TII conversion, but if it's worth the cost, might. Anyone have any other ideas?
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
You know, that's odd. A friend locally rebuilt his own engine (87 t2) with my partial supervision. IT went in and ran very well, and he proceeded to put ~800 breakin miles on it, at which time it began pouring oil off the back iron. He first thought it was the rear oil line, but later found excessive seepage from between the rear iron and rear rotorhousing, at the upper dowel. I assumed it was the dowel o-ring, he pulled it, and brought it to me to look at.
I pulled the rear iron and found the dowel landing cracked severely, and I have no idea why, as it did not leak prior to the rebuild. I can only figure he dropped it or something during cleaning, and caused a small fracture that grew with heat cycles. I assume the same thing happened with yours.
The only real option is to take it apart, find another iron (if it is in fact cracked, versus a dowel o-ring) and port it the best you can to match the rest (since it'll all have to come apart anyway). If the engine truly is only 100 miles old, and you're VERY careful and skillful at disassembly, you can reuse the water seals from this engine with extra sealant during reassembly. You have to barely slide each housing off the next one only 3/16" or so, and check with a flashlight to see whether or not any of the coolant seals are sticking/stretching, and release them with a small instrument such as a thin flat screwdriver if they are. Carefully remove them after the housing is off, and gently remove any traces of old sealant with a rag, and they'll be ok to reuse.
I pulled the rear iron and found the dowel landing cracked severely, and I have no idea why, as it did not leak prior to the rebuild. I can only figure he dropped it or something during cleaning, and caused a small fracture that grew with heat cycles. I assume the same thing happened with yours.
The only real option is to take it apart, find another iron (if it is in fact cracked, versus a dowel o-ring) and port it the best you can to match the rest (since it'll all have to come apart anyway). If the engine truly is only 100 miles old, and you're VERY careful and skillful at disassembly, you can reuse the water seals from this engine with extra sealant during reassembly. You have to barely slide each housing off the next one only 3/16" or so, and check with a flashlight to see whether or not any of the coolant seals are sticking/stretching, and release them with a small instrument such as a thin flat screwdriver if they are. Carefully remove them after the housing is off, and gently remove any traces of old sealant with a rag, and they'll be ok to reuse.
#5
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That sounds exactally like what I think happened here.
So far, the plan is to get some S4 housings from a friend (N/A ends, TII intermediate), port them (including a bridge on the 5/6th ports), and re-assemble w/ new rubber. I know I don't have to... but it's apart already
So far, the plan is to get some S4 housings from a friend (N/A ends, TII intermediate), port them (including a bridge on the 5/6th ports), and re-assemble w/ new rubber. I know I don't have to... but it's apart already
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