HAILERS

Got a spare cas? If you do, you can put the electrical plug on that one and do the above without cranking the engine over. Plus, as said above, remove the small, two wire , white connector for the coils first to prevent spark.

WAYNE88N/A

Not that it matters now, I guess, but I'll try to explain it a little better for future reference:

You got two "sides" to a circuit, the power side, and the ground side (for simplicity consider the component to be in the middle of every circuit).

What you're doing is removing the power from the power side so that it's a "dead"circuit. Pulling the fuse will accomplish this, or even disconnecting a plug as close to the fuse (or battery) as you can...

Now you're going to ground this dead power side of the circuit to the chassis, using a jumper, piece of wire, etc....

The entire circuit now forms a big loop back on itself, because you just just grounded the power side, and of course the ground side is already grounded. Put the positive meter lead on the pin of the circuit you're playing with, and put the other meter lead on ground. The meter will read through the chassis, through your jumper, through the wiring in the circuit, and finally to the positive lead you have in the pin. One big loop. Get it now?

Any time you need to shoot some wiring, and the meter leads won't reach the two ends you want to read, you can use this little trick. Just remember to have NO power on either end of the circuit (disconnecting the pos battery terminal will accomplish this)

I guess Hailer's way worked, huh? That's amazing, he usually gets wire colors and such mixed up, lol...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ahhh ok well that makes sence now. Probably because its not 7 in the morning, lol. any ways I just pulled the manifold off and it looks like only one of the injectors where firing because there was only gas residue on one of the injectors, the other side was clean. So I'm going to see if it is the wireing or the actuall injector itself. What could cause this? bad injector? Anyways I did cut something of the wiring harness that was no longer needed but maybe I shouldn't have. Can you guys tell me if I needed this part of the wireing harness. I mean I think it only went to the subzero start. Anyways here is a pic of it.

WAYNE88N/A

A picture's worth 1000 words, except for yours, lol...

Do you know exactly which wires you cut out?

Are these new injectors, or have they been sitting around for a while with gas in 'em?

Nice ground back there on the tranny, BTW

When I think I might have a bad injector (been there), I swap the primary & secondaries. Can you do that?

You could also pull 'em and put 12vdc on 'em, make sure they click. This is assuming you figured out the wiring was good. Which you could do using the ground-ground loop thingy I was trying to explain...

Quit trying to make the car faster, lol...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i have no clue what that wiring goes to, unwrap it and trace it back because in the stock configuration there should be no extra wires running up in that general direction.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Well that part I cut off has 4 wires, 2 of witch whent to the subzero and the other two weren't being used either. As far as the injectors go I got them from a fellow forum member so I'm not exactly sure if they work or now but they sure look new. I'm going to do the test tomorrow or sometime. It's kind of crazy around here getting married next saturday and then going to jamaica right after that but if I get some time I'll try some differant things out on these injectors. I know I know I shouldn't have upgraded but oh well I'm past the point of no return now

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

At least the turbos working OK now... That makes me feel better!

WAYNE88N/A

Cool, CONGRATS!!!

(Or should I say I'm sorry...)

Since you can pull the UIM with one eye closed, it shouldn't take too long...

I also got 4 injectors from a forum member...One of which turned out to be bad...This I didn't learn until everything was back together (they all ohmed out OK prior to install)...Spent two days troubleshooting everything BUT the injectors, since I was so sure that a fellow forum member wouldn't sell me some junk, lol...

New OEM parts from now on

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yeah, lol your not joking, with injectors I guess I should just bight the bullet and buy new ones next time if it is the injectors. Anyways I just when outside and ran 12vdc to them and both clicked just fine so does this mean the injectors are ok?

HAILERS

How about peeling back the covering over the wires that are cut and giving us the wire colors of the cut wires? Like black/white, green/red etc

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok cool I can do that hailers hold on one sec. Oh and thanks for the congrats wayne everyone else that has been married already said I'm making a mistake, lol. Anyways yeah sonic I'm glad that turbo is working as well!!!! I would have been more thrilled about this had everything worked ok but......this freakin injector problem poped up the same time the turbo smoke started clearing up.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok the colors are

green/black
brown/yellow
black/white
black/white (w/red stripes)

HAILERS

The light green/black is for the air supply valve on the back of the upper intake.

Black/white is a feeder wire for the airsupply valve AND the air bypass valve.

Brown/yellow is for the air bypass valve

Black/white with red stripes???? Probably a off shoot of the black/white wire.

They are all related to one of the two valves mentioned above. Not a player in your problem.

WAYNE88N/A

green/black could be the water temp switch...

brown/yellow could be the air bypass solenoid valve...

black/white could be a power wire for any of numerous solenoids (twin scroll, switching, EGR, etc)

black/white with red stripes???

You still there, Hailers?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

thank you very much hailers and wayne, I appreciate that greatly! that would have taken me forever to find any referance to those wires. I did just find that the possitive battery terminal bolt was just barely finger tight, would this cause any of these problems? The msd is directly wired to the possitive battery terminal so maybe it wasn't getting enough juice or something???

HAILERS

I'm fairly sure I have it nailed. The airbypass and air supply valve share (on a series four) the same feed wire for power (black/white) and come off the same branch of the harness.

Although there is a green/black dedicated to the fan water temp switch, I've elected to disregard this because...........it does not fit my view of the world and how it works. humor

In other words...I'm right and there will be NO DISSENT! You have relatives in chermany, herr Wayne?

WAYNE88N/A

Sorry Hailers, you weren't answering for a while, so I figured I'd try to help. As it was, you beat me to the punch

And no, Honda Dude, just because the injector clicks doesn't mean that it's good (been there with that one too, lol). It does, however, mean that the coil is good. If they've been sitting around for a while, they could be gunked up internally...

WAYNE88N/A

Nein. Ich bein Svedish...Helga ist ein maiden...

As you can tell, it's been a while since I flunked German

HAILERS

I noticed new injector plugs on that harness. Is there any possibility that the wrong wires/plugs are going to the wrong injector? I say that because the wires that were cut off normally are not that near the rear primary plug. So maybe some alterations were made to the harness and the wires are not going where they should.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

when I spliced in the new injector lines I did it very carefully, cutting one wire at a time and splicing the new one in and then continued. I also spliced them with solder and shrink tubing. I wanted to make sure and do these correctly as I didn't have to redo any of these connections.

ok wayne what I'll do is go ahead and try the 890cc in the primary location and see if they fire, if they do we will know it is somewhere in the wireing.

WAYNE88N/A

Back to basics- do you think a primary injector isn't firing?

Read the suckers out from the ECU while cranking, if it's firing, the voltage will fall a bit on the meter (backprobe the wire & leave the plug on, negative meter lead to ground). Your car's so "aftermarket" now, I don't know if you still have stock wire colors on your injector runs or not, but I figure by now you know which ECU pin is which...

Hailers, for you, some more German translations:

Radiator- Das Hotwasserteemachenmaschine
Windshield Wipers- Die Flippenfloppenfilthgespreadenstucken
Exhaust- Das Loudaboomatube
Straight Through Exhaust- Das Eargesplittenlaudaboomatube
No Brakes- Nein stoppen
No Spark- Nein elecktriken
Punctured Tire- Flatten onderbottom
Troubleshooting- Der fingerpoken

Blew a seal- Mein motor ist kaputin

WAYNE88N/A

Hmm, so you have 2 different flow rates between the primaries & secondaries. Welp, I guess you could try it, but you might wind up flooded the crap out of her with those 890's.

Have you tried to read them out at the ECU yet while cranking? Remember, if the circuit is good but the ECU driver is dead (or the ground is shot), you'll see battery voltage there all the time...Pos meter lead on the ECU pin, Neg lead to ground...

If the wiring is bad (or the injector coil is open), you'll see no voltage with the key on...

If the circuit and ECU are good (and the injector coil), you'll see the voltage fall as you're cranking her for a start.

So, if you see the voltage falling for both primary injectors during cranking, then both circuits should be good. It's not absolute proof that the injector is squirting fuel, though...

Note that when the starter kicks in, the system voltage falls to about 10v anyway, so the injector voltages should be less than that if working...

Have you pulled the plugs to see if they're wet?

rx_rotary

sup man.My guage was doing the same thing..going back and forth on the AEM.go super rich then right away drop down then super rich drop down.turned my afc all the way lean like i told ya and then it runs rich but i can actually floor it and maybe just little hits of hesitation at high rpms. I'm almost positive my secondary injectors are stuck open. anywayss...I hope to hear what happens with your car. by the way. congrats on the marriage!!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

he means to simply install them into the primary locations in the fuel rail to check the pulses from them, as i suggested.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yeah what karak said, I'll just put them in two differant plastic cups so that if one doesn't squirt I'll see it as the cup will be dry. However if they do squirt I'll see that as well and will then have to move to the wiring harness etc... as the culprit Wayne I was thinking if the both the injectors fire on the primary location then I will put everything back together (just to tear back apart later) and run some extension wire from the secondary's at the ecu to my multimeter and have my fiance ride in the car with me and read what happens at secondary cut on. Would this work?