Cutting springs to lower ride height..
12-26-10, 10:57 AM
#26
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I'd love to see those numbers. I mean I'm sure it can be done - just about anything can. But I don't see too many people getting that math right. There's just too much potential for creating a dangerous situation considering those who would actually entertain this.
12-26-10, 12:59 PM
#27
material rigidity or torsional modulus (G) --- since it's steel I'd use 11.25x10^6
wire diameter (d)
number of active coils (n)
mean coil diameter (D)
http://www.engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm
12-27-10, 01:04 PM
#34
coilovers can be had for just a little more than what a new set of springs and struts would go for. Your going to want to replace those struts/shocks if you go with lowering springs.
Some guys here are anti-coilovers btw.
I suggest coilovers since you have the option to adjust your ride height.
Some guys here are anti-coilovers btw.
I suggest coilovers since you have the option to adjust your ride height.
12-27-10, 02:00 PM
#36
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12-27-10, 02:01 PM
#37
What's the point??
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coilovers can be had for just a little more than what a new set of springs and struts would go for. Your going to want to replace those struts/shocks if you go with lowering springs.
Some guys here are anti-coilovers btw.
I suggest coilovers since you have the option to adjust your ride height.
Some guys here are anti-coilovers btw.
I suggest coilovers since you have the option to adjust your ride height.
12-27-10, 02:10 PM
#38
If I was going to go with coil's I'd want to do it right. Not suffer a bad ride quality because I cheaped on parts. But in the mean time, 100-300 for springs is more my preference. The shocks are damn near new already, so I would have to replace them immediately.
I've seen some FS adds for vert springs. Those are stiffer if I understand correctly right? Which would be an overly juttery ride?
I've seen some FS adds for vert springs. Those are stiffer if I understand correctly right? Which would be an overly juttery ride?
12-27-10, 03:14 PM
#39
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The math isn't beyond you.
material rigidity or torsional modulus (G) --- since it's steel I'd use 11.25x10^6
wire diameter (d)
number of active coils (n)
mean coil diameter (D)
http://www.engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm
material rigidity or torsional modulus (G) --- since it's steel I'd use 11.25x10^6
wire diameter (d)
number of active coils (n)
mean coil diameter (D)
http://www.engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm
12-27-10, 03:38 PM
#40
Problem solved. Got a hold of some Tein lowering springs and some tok blues for a good price. No need to consider doing this anymore 
thanks for the input guys!
Just remember, there are still people out there that when you suggest to do or not do something, they listen. It seems that doesn't happen as much these days when people don't get the answers they wanted to hear.
thanks for the input guys! Just remember, there are still people out there that when you suggest to do or not do something, they listen. It seems that doesn't happen as much these days when people don't get the answers they wanted to hear.
12-27-10, 09:19 PM
#42
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This rubs me the wrong way.
I mean you would be willing(scenario); to spend 3k for a rebuild,get the car painted for 3-4 K.Put in Racing seats, Gauges,MOMO wheel.short shifter,,Nice wheels say 2k..and then you would defeat all that NICE stuff by Cheaping out on a set of 150 Dollar springs?
Seriously,it would be Unsafe as you would compromise the integrity of the springs.
Ditch the Idea,get a set of lowering springs and Move on to something else.
There is only one way to do the car up..and that is SAFELY..It can look like *** but if it is safe then it will beat out the Other guy's car that was Half Assed put together.
Short Cuts can have a Detrimental effect..Be safe,do it right the first time..so you can enjoy the car,not spend ages fixing your short cuts.
My .02 for what it's worth.
I mean you would be willing(scenario); to spend 3k for a rebuild,get the car painted for 3-4 K.Put in Racing seats, Gauges,MOMO wheel.short shifter,,Nice wheels say 2k..and then you would defeat all that NICE stuff by Cheaping out on a set of 150 Dollar springs?
Seriously,it would be Unsafe as you would compromise the integrity of the springs.
Ditch the Idea,get a set of lowering springs and Move on to something else.
There is only one way to do the car up..and that is SAFELY..It can look like *** but if it is safe then it will beat out the Other guy's car that was Half Assed put together.
Short Cuts can have a Detrimental effect..Be safe,do it right the first time..so you can enjoy the car,not spend ages fixing your short cuts.
My .02 for what it's worth.
12-28-10, 04:49 PM
#45
I general consensus is nonsense. Cutting springs is a perfectly fine way of getting what you want. The fact that 99% of the people that do it don't do their homework is the problem.
Lowering an FC more than a couple inches is where you're going to get problems no matter what. The cars only have about 4" of bump travel to start with(maybe less, its been forever since I had a stock one) if you lower the car 2" with stock length struts you are losing half of your bump travel. You need some very stiff springs to keep the chassis off the bump stops to start with and none of the struts you can buy for a "street" car can control those high rates. Your car will have that ricer high frequency bounce of a car riding the bump stops. Its not the spring's fault for the bounce, its not being controlled by the cheap--less than $200-- strut or shock.
You need to decide, do you want a car that looks cool and scrapes its belly like a lizard, or do you want a car you can drive on the street and not worry about every man-hole cover? Getting both is an engineering feat that costs a TON of money. My race car isn't as low as the car in Hypertek's sig because the suspension just won't work that low, simple as that.
Lowering an FC more than a couple inches is where you're going to get problems no matter what. The cars only have about 4" of bump travel to start with(maybe less, its been forever since I had a stock one) if you lower the car 2" with stock length struts you are losing half of your bump travel. You need some very stiff springs to keep the chassis off the bump stops to start with and none of the struts you can buy for a "street" car can control those high rates. Your car will have that ricer high frequency bounce of a car riding the bump stops. Its not the spring's fault for the bounce, its not being controlled by the cheap--less than $200-- strut or shock.
You need to decide, do you want a car that looks cool and scrapes its belly like a lizard, or do you want a car you can drive on the street and not worry about every man-hole cover? Getting both is an engineering feat that costs a TON of money. My race car isn't as low as the car in Hypertek's sig because the suspension just won't work that low, simple as that.
12-28-10, 06:46 PM
#46
I general consensus is nonsense. Cutting springs is a perfectly fine way of getting what you want. The fact that 99% of the people that do it don't do their homework is the problem.
And for the last time. OUR STOCK SPRINGS ARE NOT PROGRESSIVE RATE SPRINGS. Just LOOK at the ******* spring.
